Would someone please describe the procedure for removing the ejectors from MX barrels. Also firing pin replacement.
Thanks
Thanks
wlc
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Push the ejector against a solid wood bench, side up, till the retaining disk can be pick out by paper clip or magnet.
Slowly release ejector out, the spring and plunger is under tension, don't loose them.
Slowly release ejector out, the spring and plunger is under tension, don't loose them.
Mx 8 series ejectors can be removed by removing barrel from receiver and bottoming out the ejector against the barrel as it would be when the gun is closed (push down barrel against a piece of wood or hard rubber) then using a magnet pull the round disc about the size of a pencil eraser out of the side of the mono block (Note:it is partialy hidden when ejector is in its open position) and then the ejector and spring will slide out as you releive the hold down pressure on the barrel (Make note of how the button is shaped and re-install the same way make sure you put some lube under button)
It's easy to do but acward you may need someones help if you haven't done it before
I'll let someone else explain the firing pins
It's easy to do but acward you may need someones help if you haven't done it before
I'll let someone else explain the firing pins
This is for type 3 and 4 Perazzi Mx Ou receivers.
Take barrel assm. off. Depress ejector all the way in on a solid flat surface (table). This will expose a 'hockey puck' like 'insert' with a small hole in the middle. If you have the parts kit you should have a 4 inch 'rod' in it. Stick either end into the hole, capturing the 'puck' and pull it out of the hole that it sits in and set aside.
Gently and slowly release the ejector. Slide it out of it's slot and set aside. Behind it will be a 'plunger' and a 'spring.' Pull them out as well and set aside.
I would suggest that you clip about 2 or 3 coils of the spring off before reassembling and you probably wont ever break an ejector. It wont throw the empty as far but it'll save the ejector a lot of stress.
Clean parts well and relubricate . Reassemble in reverse order.
Hope that helps,
Barry
Take barrel assm. off. Depress ejector all the way in on a solid flat surface (table). This will expose a 'hockey puck' like 'insert' with a small hole in the middle. If you have the parts kit you should have a 4 inch 'rod' in it. Stick either end into the hole, capturing the 'puck' and pull it out of the hole that it sits in and set aside.
Gently and slowly release the ejector. Slide it out of it's slot and set aside. Behind it will be a 'plunger' and a 'spring.' Pull them out as well and set aside.
I would suggest that you clip about 2 or 3 coils of the spring off before reassembling and you probably wont ever break an ejector. It wont throw the empty as far but it'll save the ejector a lot of stress.
Clean parts well and relubricate . Reassemble in reverse order.
Hope that helps,
Barry
Maybe I have strong thumbs but with just a little effort I push the ejectors in by hand with the muzzles sitting on a soft surface, a carpet mat in my case.
I then get the little steel rod that comes with the spring/firing pin kit and poke that inside the little hole in the retaining disc and pull it out with a slight sideways twist to lock the rod up in the hole in the disc, the rod fits almost like that is how Perazzi intended the job to be done ??
Assuming a type 4 there is a relatively large cross pin running through the action between the firing pins, accessed with the stock off. If you tap that out, it isn't tight, the firing pins will come free, be sure to put the correct pin in the correct hole as they are different lengths and align the retaining cut out with the pin when reassembling.
Push the pin left to right and stop as soon as the right pin is free, that will leave the top lever release mechanism in place, tap the pin all the way out and the release mechanism will come free and the top lever can be removed as well as the top lever spring.
They are very simple and marvelously thought out for owner maintenance.
Bryce
I then get the little steel rod that comes with the spring/firing pin kit and poke that inside the little hole in the retaining disc and pull it out with a slight sideways twist to lock the rod up in the hole in the disc, the rod fits almost like that is how Perazzi intended the job to be done ??
Assuming a type 4 there is a relatively large cross pin running through the action between the firing pins, accessed with the stock off. If you tap that out, it isn't tight, the firing pins will come free, be sure to put the correct pin in the correct hole as they are different lengths and align the retaining cut out with the pin when reassembling.
Push the pin left to right and stop as soon as the right pin is free, that will leave the top lever release mechanism in place, tap the pin all the way out and the release mechanism will come free and the top lever can be removed as well as the top lever spring.
They are very simple and marvelously thought out for owner maintenance.
Bryce
Firing pins aren't difficult but there more than one version of receiver type that affects the firing pin replacement. I need your serial number and where your top lever trip button is located on your receiver.
PBB,
How far will the ejectors kick the empties out with a few coils removed ?
I usually eject the empties or maybe pop them into my hand so I don't want them the be weak. As it stands the ejectors pop the empties about three feet backwards which places them behind me and near the cartridge bin, often in the bin if I judge it right.
I like the idea of the coil cutting but I would not want to end up with the empties just lobbing out lethargically and landing on the gun, my arm, at my feet etc ....
Perhaps buy a set of springs as back up and start cutting keeping a set aside in case I go to far ??
Bryce
How far will the ejectors kick the empties out with a few coils removed ?
I usually eject the empties or maybe pop them into my hand so I don't want them the be weak. As it stands the ejectors pop the empties about three feet backwards which places them behind me and near the cartridge bin, often in the bin if I judge it right.
I like the idea of the coil cutting but I would not want to end up with the empties just lobbing out lethargically and landing on the gun, my arm, at my feet etc ....
Perhaps buy a set of springs as back up and start cutting keeping a set aside in case I go to far ??
Bryce
Bryce, Never take more than 2 coils off at a time. A half inch will be too much for your requirement.
WLC,
That makes it a Type 4, later manufacture gun.
This from my first post applies but I am sure Barry can add more.
<i> Assuming a type 4 there is a relatively large cross pin running through the action between the firing pins, accessed with the stock off. If you tap that out, it isn't tight, the firing pins will come free, be sure to put the correct pin in the correct hole as they are different lengths and align the retaining cut out with the pin when reassembling.
Push the pin left to right and stop as soon as the right pin is free, that will leave the top lever release mechanism in place, tap the pin all the way out and the release mechanism will come free and the top lever can be removed as well as the top lever spring. <i/>
That makes it a Type 4, later manufacture gun.
This from my first post applies but I am sure Barry can add more.
<i> Assuming a type 4 there is a relatively large cross pin running through the action between the firing pins, accessed with the stock off. If you tap that out, it isn't tight, the firing pins will come free, be sure to put the correct pin in the correct hole as they are different lengths and align the retaining cut out with the pin when reassembling.
Push the pin left to right and stop as soon as the right pin is free, that will leave the top lever release mechanism in place, tap the pin all the way out and the release mechanism will come free and the top lever can be removed as well as the top lever spring. <i/>
What Bryce says. The rocker that trips the top lever return function is also mounted on the same pin that retains the firing pins. If you don't need to remove the top lever then don't take the retaining pin all the way out. The rocker is a bit difficult to put back if you haven't done it a lot.... so, drive the pin as described in Bryce's instructions and leave the pin in enough to retain the 'rocker.'
The pins have very fine return springs around them and often stick in the firing pin holes. I use an eyelash brush to spin into the firing pin holes to 'capture' the springs for removal. You can buy them at Sally Beauty. They're cheap and with a drop or two of cleaner you can use them to scrub out the hole.
Clean the springs, lubricate with a very fine oil and put them over the firing pins and replace them in the correct firing pin holes. Like Bryce says the bottom pin is different than the top pin. When buying bottom firing pins, make sure and tell them thay you need the 'new' type. The top firing pin is the same for all versions of Mx type receiver.
On each firing pin you will see a concave depression machined out about half way down the pin. That is a 'journal' or path for the retaining pin that you will be driving back into place. The retaining pin will not move freely back into position if the journal is not in the correct position. After driving the retaining pin back in place press on each firing pin to see if they move through the firing pin hole and return freely. I usually put one drop of fine oil on the large end of the firing pins to complete the job.
That's it.
The pins have very fine return springs around them and often stick in the firing pin holes. I use an eyelash brush to spin into the firing pin holes to 'capture' the springs for removal. You can buy them at Sally Beauty. They're cheap and with a drop or two of cleaner you can use them to scrub out the hole.
Clean the springs, lubricate with a very fine oil and put them over the firing pins and replace them in the correct firing pin holes. Like Bryce says the bottom pin is different than the top pin. When buying bottom firing pins, make sure and tell them thay you need the 'new' type. The top firing pin is the same for all versions of Mx type receiver.
On each firing pin you will see a concave depression machined out about half way down the pin. That is a 'journal' or path for the retaining pin that you will be driving back into place. The retaining pin will not move freely back into position if the journal is not in the correct position. After driving the retaining pin back in place press on each firing pin to see if they move through the firing pin hole and return freely. I usually put one drop of fine oil on the large end of the firing pins to complete the job.
That's it.
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