Myself and both my daughters shoot Ljutic. I had these knockers made (Wad Knocker | Rusty Bust) and we all carry / use them. They work great. Happy to send you one, could purchase online or I could email an invoice as well. No pressure, just sharing. Thanks and good luck!

 

Years ago, I found the perfect wad/shell knocker at Harbor Freight Tools for less than 10 bucks. It was a brass punch 1/2 by 8 inches long. I cut it in half and smoothed the cut edges on a grinder. While no longer offered by Harbor Freight, there should be metal supply outlets that have brass rods suitable for dislodging hulls or wads for a couple dollars which you can cut and smooth for use.

As an alternative, perhaps a length of 1/2 copper pipe, or plastic pipe, filled with lead shot and capped at both ends.

 

If they stick that bad, you have other problems.

 

Not all Federal sticks like that, only this batch. I used many cases of top gun before. No issue with gun club either.

 

The brass wad knocker is 4 oz. I made a 7 oz wad knocker by filling an eBay purchased cigar/joint aluminum tube with molten lead. When it cools, squeeze the thread area smooth so it will pass a wad through a XFull choke tube. Cost was $6.

 

JLYON one of our vendors here sells a wad knocker. Check him out.

 

My wife and I shoot Top guns without a problem. We both shoot Ljutics. My buddy and his kid both shoot Top Guns in their older Ljutics with no problems.
When was the last time the ejector springs were changed. When was the last time you really cleaned out the chamber? I use a chamber hone about once ever 6 months, takes about 2 minutes and nothing sticks in my chamber.

 

The ejector spring was changed about 8 months ago by Phillips’s. It is only recently that I had problem with this batch of Top Gun shells. I will try to clean chamber.

I also notice that when it is stuck to eject, if let the chamber opened for a while, normally less than the time of my next turn, I close the action and open it again, the shell will be ejected. This make me thinking that the steel hull expanded a bit after firing. When it is cold, it is easier to be ejected.

 

I like Shotgun Sports Magazine Wadout. This is a collapsible aluminum rod with a bungy cord inside.
Link: Price Drop | Shotgun Sports Magazine

It a close out, so order asap if interested.

Jason

 

Try waiting to open the gun. Fire bring gun down, wait for the next person to shoot, then open your gun.

Jason

 

Those all sound like just outstanding ideas.

 

Try a can of Hornady case lube. Spray a small amount in the chamber and rub it around. Works for me.

 

I made my own. Cut a piece of copper pipe, 1/2" outside diameter, 3 to 4 inches long. Solder/crazy glue a copper cap on one end. Fill with lead shot, I use # 9 shot, and then cap the other the same way as the 1st cap. I use it with 12- 16 & 20 guns. I clean up the flux and solder joints and sand paper the pipe to a bright shine. You can ID the pipe, initial/name with a black marker. After the ink dries, spray with a few coats of clear lacquer. Will last for ever!!!

 

I forgot to write, it works great to clear wads and fits nicely in your vests..

 

Because of ammo shortage, I bought 10+ cases of Federal top gun shells recently. I found that sometimes the hulls stuck in my Ljutic bore (a well known issue for steel hulls), usually 1-2 in each box, but could be 3-5 hulls per box. I have a Wad Knocker (from WadKnocker.com), but it is a bit light in weight on knock off the hull.

My questions are:

1) Is there a place to buy a heavier “hull knocker”?

2) If I ask someone to make a hull knocker, what weight do you recommend (in case you have one). FYI, the Wadknocker I have now is about 5oz of brass (1/2 diameter x 4”).

Thank you.

you need to polish your chamber and keep it oiled ..had same problem ....Tornado Brush on a drill cured it .... Tool steel ....need to keep the chamber clean...Humidity will get you too

 

With that many sticking, why not take a wooden dowel to the line with you.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

Hello,
I had a Ljutic once, that I shot Federal steel hulls with it. I solved the sticking problem by tightening down the collet on my 9000 a little. Just my two cents.

 

OP is writing about problem he is having with factory loads, not reloads.

 

WHY would any one spend $15 to $25 to knock out a wad or stuck hull once or twice a day?

 

I actually bought a wad knocker from Dick Hubbert (beaker100). It is a brass snap cap with that is made up of two pieces. The ”hull“ portion which is smaller diameter of real hull, unscrews from the “case head” portion. Drop the ”hull” portion down the barrel from the muzzle. Serves a dual purpose.

 

I tried all the suggested methods to make steel hulls work in my Ljutics, this is the only thing that did, in fact, work; Volkswagon brake hone and some 3/1 oil. Hone your chamber out about .001-.0015 and you will solve your steel hull sticking issue, except for the cheap Winchesters. They always stick

 

I shoot brass based ammo only; If I were to shoot steel, it'd be Gun Clubs. I did have to shoot 50 of those through my Ljutic once, and none stuck. Several people who have shot my Ljutic with their ammo have had to bring the wadknocker rod from the scoring chair to the line with them.
I like the One Shot case lube idea. Might have to try that for future reference.

 

Mr. Barker is correct I miss read the OP. Sorry to inject my philosophy into this thread, I will be more careful of my future input. I would not want to mislead someone by my errant input.

 

Mr. Barker is correct I miss read the OP. Sorry to inject my philosophy into this thread, I will be more careful of my future input. I would not want to mislead someone by my errant input.

No issue at all. No apology needed. Thanks for all comments and suggestions!

 

I shoot a Ljutic and never had any issues with Top Guns until they started making the new batch (blue box and they have a plastic basewad instead of a fiber base wad). Also the ones I had issues with had a gold colored steel head instead of the silver head. It seemed that the metal was thicker on the new ones.

I wound up shooting them in my O/U at doubles which kicks anything out.

 

I shoot a Ljutic and never had any issues with Top Guns until they started making the new batch (blue box and they have a plastic basewad instead of a fiber base wad). Also the ones I had issues with had a gold colored steel head instead of the silver head. It seemed that the metal was thicker on the new ones.

I wound up shooting them in my O/U at doubles which kicks anything out.

Yes, that is the type of problem I had. Never have any issue with Federal with silver base hull. Just shoot in case of old Top Gun (silver), no any issue at all.

 

I keep a collapsible 3 piece fiberglass rod with internal elastic... from a kids indoor tent... the 48" rod folds up into 3 16" sections, but easily assembles and can be inserted into the muzzle when needed...

 

I suppose my magnetic hull pick up stick would also work.

 

Because of ammo shortage, I bought 10+ cases of Federal top gun shells recently. I found that sometimes the hulls stuck in my Ljutic bore (a well known issue for steel hulls), usually 1-2 in each box, but could be 3-5 hulls per box. I have a Wad Knocker (from WadKnocker.com), but it is a bit light in weight on knock off the hull.

My questions are:

1) Is there a place to buy a heavier “hull knocker”?

2) If I ask someone to make a hull knocker, what weight do you recommend (in case you have one). FYI, the Wadknocker I have now is about 5oz of brass (1/2 diameter x 4”).

Thank you.

I purchased 12" lengths of 5/8 solid brass rod on ebay. For my own purposes I cut rod lengths to fit in each of my choke tube cases and polished the ends. The rods fit inside one of the tubes and are always with choke tubes. If you wanted extra heavy you could even leave full length. Inexpensive and useful. Good luck.

 

Just to close the topics, I asked Mark Amann to make a custom “hull knocker” with 5/8” diameter copper rod. It is 5.5” long about 7.7 Oz. It removed stick hulls very forcefully. It is a bit heavy, but I just put it in a pocket when I shoot. Removing one take about 5-10 seconds, and will not be noticed by other shouters at all. I think that a 5” long (7 Oz) would do the job well too.

The following is the comparison of “hull knocker” vs the original wadknocker (from wadknocker.com, 1/2” rod, 4” long, 3.6 Oz)

 

I use a piece of 1/2" by 6" long copper tube, pinch 1 end shut. Fill with molten lead. Use pipe cutter to round off ends and good to go. I use my Lee lead melter pot.

 

Why bother with 100 shells, when you can carry a knocker or rod to knock out the hulls that stick.

If honing the chamber make sure that the problem is not a chamber that is already too large. This causes the shell base to over expand.

Jason