No, does not matter unless you want ammo that crimps and fires properly.

 

It is not just kinda important, it is critically important! Depending on the load mix involving selected components: primer, powder, wad, shot weights....the load might be a blooper in one type of hull and a potentially explosive gun destructive load in another type of hull. Stick to proven published loads and buy and use a good powder scale.

 

Seriously?
Please buy a RELOADING MANUAL, before proceeding any further!
If you ask a question like that, you really need to read up on the subject.
MG

 

Yes

 

Go online and look at the FREE loading data from powder manufacturers. There’s no excuse when the data is free online.

There are 2 basic types of hulls being straight walled or tapered walls. Within these types there are a multitude of variables that vary depending on the brand of hull and components used.

Don’t EVER ASSUME a load is ok unless you find it published in a reloading manual or it’s online from a reputable source. Switching components is never acceptable. Do your homework before proceeding. Good luck!

 

best thing you should do is shoot factory shells

 

The OP asked a basic question the answer to which lays bare a significant amout of complexiity.

There are lots of differences between hull types (depending on what you mean by "type"). Generally speaking, there are 2 "types" of hull: (1) tapered walled hulls (win AA and Rem) and (2) straight walled hulls (Fed and all Euro hulls).

Wads are designed based on these 2 basic hull types. Then, you get into issues such as base-wad height. Not all the straight walled hulls have the same base-wad height, which leads to variation in the height of the crush section of the wad needed.

So it does make a difference and you can't start with a bushel basket of mixed hull types and expect to run a single recipe through them all and expect uniform results. You will have to separate then by type and then again by manufacturer and use different recipes depending on hull type and and manufacturer. It's simple.....

 

My experience has been with Win AA's and Remington STS's and have found that the length difference between the two causes crimp issues if you attempt to mix them. The Win's are slightly shorter, causing annoyances. I've settled on Remington hulls.

 

It takes 30 seconds, if that, to reset the crimp between the two. There's no reason to exclude one of the best hulls for reloading because you are a little lazy.

 

I don't load any hull with a separate basewad.The other day someone kingly brought in 3000 fiocchis but I passed-separate base wad.

 

Depends on what type of shell on your receipt states. I guess if you bought Winchesters, I would use Winchester data.

Your receipt may vary,
Wadcrusher

 

Change an ingredient in a baking recipe and the end result will most likely not be favorable.

Reloading recipes are not indifferent.

That stated, there are minor cross overs that could/kinda of work with select powder/wad combinations. Crimp won't be ideal but they'll shoot.

What recipe and hulls were you in question of interchanging?

 

Looks like storm lost interest in this discussion?! Tom Rhoads

 

With soooo many trolls around here, one starts to wonder what really goes thru their heads?
Asinine comments included,

MG

 

He took a lot of 'hail' from the afternoon/evening snipers. I'll see if I can't draw a little fire away from him.

"My primers keep falling out, does it matter what kind of glue I use?"

 

Or maybe he's exploring the idea of reloading. This site has interest other than reloading and the op is branching out. Who knows....but if you want to teach, teach. Otherwise ...wait.

 

Some people just should not reload!
MG

 

Straight walled hulls vs tapered hulls does matter. Wads for straight walled hulls are larger in diameter. The two should never be mixed.

 

Apparently we'll possibly never know.

But if he's new to reloading, it simply could have been a question related to STS/Nitros/Gun Clubs. Everyone just presumed it was two totally different brands.

 

There is some good advice on this thread. Unless you are going to follow what the what the powder manufacturers say don't reload. And this is very evident when you hear some loads shot at different clubs.
Some people should not reload!!
Devonian.

 

I'm inclined to give the OP the benefit of the doubt. Someone who is newer to this may not see what is obvious to those who have been doing this for a while. The only stupid question is the one not asked. I thought the OP was seeking some education.

 

I guess that's possible, but let's look at this from another angle.
Does this OP, actually believe that the powder manufacturers, Lyman, Claybusters & Downrange, just to name a few, actually spent the hundreds of thousands of dollars to produce their data for nothing?
Sorry, I can't buy the, benefit of the doubt reasoning.
MG

 

I think you need to just buy New! it keep you safe at least and others around you too.

 

Explain. How so? You've never seen a kaboom with a factory shell? They happen, I have seen several. The worst I've seen with handloads is having to knock wads out, and the occasionally embarassing shell where the shot practically rolls out the end of the barrel.

If you're just messing with Charlie, I understand.

 

yes!