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Should I install or return these plates?

  • Return them and look for another product

    Votes: 5 45%
  • Don't be a wuss - install the plates

    Votes: 6 55%
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There is a little trick that you can use when you install a "thru da pad" but plate that has a slot that goes horizontally left to right that the pad attaches to. Install the recoil pad to the plate and turn it over so the aluminum plate is facing you. Then get a drill bit slightly larger than the Allen key that is needed to adjust it. Centerise it and drill thru the pad. Now take the pad off and get a larger bit and just open the hole in the plastic a little bit. I did remember one person had a concern that the sps on the stock plate did leave a tiny imperfection on the finish. Before doing any scribing on the plate and before you screw it in look first. The non slip material or tape I have is used on the edge of stairs mainly on marble steps in apartment buildings. It is really unnecessary but, I have it if you need it. Beautiful job Wad.
 
I've installed many sps products and any issues have always been minor and taken care of with a phone call. It's almost impossible to call Joe without having an interesting talk about something. The plate I use has only the 1 screw for thru pad adjustment and seems to be the one most people prefer. Mount the base plate to the stock and then mount the pad to the adjustment plate and move the plate to aline the pad to the stock before grinding.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
It’s a shame that threads like this do in-fact place doubt into people’s heads.
People have questions and other people have answer... isn't this the exact purpose of these threads? The doubt is something that each person assesses for themselves. Anything mechanical can be tweaked, massaged, fixed or forced to work; but the question is, should that be required on a brand new product straight out of the box. My belief is no. You can have your own belief but don't give people a hard time for asking for help. It looks like you're using a higher-end version of the SPS plates. My lesson learned here was that you get what you pay for. Thanks for your help in arriving at that conclusion ;-)
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
#1. The screw holes to mount the base plate and the holes to mount the pad have nothing to do with each other. Not an issue.
#3. Easy fix. Lay on flat surface with emery cloth and take the high spots off.
#4. All makes of recoil pads vary. The screws that come with the SPS work well for a Kick eez pad. Note, I almost always have to grind screws off or get longer ones. Just the way it is. Nobody sends you a variety of lengths. Not an issue.
#5. Not sure why you state this. Some plates require taking the pad off to adjust, some don't. You can usually modify to your needs. Once set it is a done deal.
Thanks for your advice, Bob. Just a few points of clarification and followup questions...

#1 - When you remove an existing recoil pad from a stock, the distance between the holes on the pad are the same as the distance between holes on the stock. Right? So if the distance between the holes on the pad-plate and the stock-plate are different, you're forced to plug and redrill holes for no benefit at all. It would be just as easy for the plates to have been drilled with the same hole dimensions; there's no apparent reason why they weren't. Or one of the holes on the plate could be slotted as is shown on the product's website.

#3 - Challenge is that the high spots are the steel thread inserts; grinding those down without hitting any of the surrounding aluminium plate is doable but not so easy as if the aluminum itself was uneven or distorted. I think you'd need to use a mill if you wanted to do it right. Maybe some careful dremel work, but if you remove the surrounding aluminum then you're just moving the problem around.

#4 - Why not just always send the longer screws to allow more flexibility, if all screws need to be ground down anyways? I'm not saying this is a deal breaker but it is a hassle to call the company and then wait another week for the new screws. It's not like I'm using some obscure brand of pad with strange dimensions.

#5 - There is no way to modify this system or a recoil pad to allow for the left/right horizontal adjustment. If you take off the pad and make this change, the adjustment screw will no longer align with the adjustment hole you've drilled through the recoil pad, so then you would not be able to adjust the drop (vertical) position without removing the pad. If that's the case, why have it as a "thru pad" adjuster at all?

Not trying to be a wise-butt here, but wanted to make sure I explained these points correctly.
 
People have questions and other people have answer... isn't this the exact purpose of these threads? The doubt is something that each person assesses for themselves. Anything mechanical can be tweaked, massaged, fixed or forced to work; but the question is, should that be required on a brand new product straight out of the box. My belief is no. You can have your own belief but don't give people a hard time for asking for help. It looks like you're using a higher-end version of the SPS plates. My lesson learned here was that you get what you pay for. Thanks for your help in arriving at that conclusion ;-)
Maybe a third call to Joe will help, if not, try sticking your tongue out the other side of your mouth.
 
#1 - When you remove an existing recoil pad from a stock, the distance between the holes on the pad are the same as the distance between holes on the stock. Right? So if the distance between the holes on the pad-plate and the stock-plate are different, you're forced to plug and redrill holes for no benefit at all. It would be just as easy for the plates to have been drilled with the same hole dimensions; there's no apparent reason why they weren't. Or one of the holes on the plate could be slotted as is shown on the product's website.
This is one of your misconceptions. Factory recoil pads and butt plates are not standardized. The aftermarket grind to fit pads have become more or less standardized so it makes sense to put drilled and tapped holes or thread inserts for mounting the aftermarket pad. There is no way to drill the part of the plate that attaches to the stock so it will fit all guns. Hell, Perazzi's don't even have holes. The factory pads are glued on.

Left to right. Perazzi, Remington, Limbsaver.




Image
 
View attachment 1667843 View attachment 1667845 Here are a couple of SPS's plates installed.
One the "patriot pad" is on a youths user gun. I just installed and done.
The other is also a youth gun, but parent wanted it maxed out for looks.
Wow, great job RR!!! I wish I could be that patient. My ADHD kicks in the moment I pick up the grinder... But I'm happy with my work... that's what matters :banana:
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
This is one of your misconceptions.
A couple of thoughts...

Factory recoil pads and butt plates are not standardized. The aftermarket grind to fit pads have become more or less standardized so it makes sense to put drilled and tapped holes or thread inserts for mounting the aftermarket pad. --- Right. So why would you choose a totally random distance between holes on the stock-plate? Why not have the two plates with identical hole patterns? It doesn't cost any more to do that during fabrication and maybe it saves half of your customers from needing to plug/drill holes in their stocks.

There is no way to drill the part of the plate that attaches to the stock so it will fit all guns. --- Yes there is; you have the top screw hole as a simple hole and the bottom screw hole as slotted. This is what SPS shows on their website and it makes perfect sense to me. However, the version that I received has two simple holes (no slotted). Maybe it doesn't solve the problem for every single stock ever made, but I bet it would address 90% of them.
 
Superbeau,

I guess I have installed so many gracoil's, LOP adjusters and recoil pads that I just work with what they send me. It is not that hard.

#1. As stated by several replies above, pads can come in different hole spacing, although most are 3.1". Slotting one of the mounting screw holes is an option but it would certainly add to the cost of the device. I have recoil pad spacers and they all have one of the holes slotted. I hate that because it limits how far down I can cut the spacer. You need to work with what you have. Plugging a stock hole is pretty easy. Depending on the shotgun you are working with, many holes are not drilled 90 deg. to the butt anyway.

#3. Use a bench grinder first and grind them down. They do not have to look good, you cannot see them once the device is mounted to the stock. Check you have enough off my using the emery on a flat surface. If still a high spot, grind some more off.

#4. When asked, suppliers/manufacturers will almost always send me longer screws. I don''t usually ask as it is too easy to grind long ones down or go to the local hardware store and get longer ones. They are a standard machine screw size, easy to get. I always pick up extras as they will be used eventually.

#5. Guess I would have to try to install the exact device you have to know the problems you are having. Sorry, not much help by remote.

Good Luck. Regards, Bob
 
Maybe it doesn't solve the problem for every single stock ever made, but I bet it would address 90% of them.

Well the other 10%, you might have to drill 1 or 2 simple holes? You know one time a customer called me and wanted to know if we sold one that he didn't have to sand down. Look at pettifogger 1 picture, the holes aren't even lined up straight do you know why? That's a problem if you want to center the plate. I am having way too much fun..........
 
Ha Ha...Every year or two, I "fired" the rare PIA customer.

I suggested, clearly, that they might be better served elsewhere. They acted surprised that I didn't want their money.
There's a big difference between assets and liabilities. I've learned the same is true for clientele and it doesn't take long to figure out which one you're dealing with (;)).
 
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