Mine had a little extra give in it after it was closed. It was barely even noticeable but one of my fingers usually ended up resting on the latch. It got to the point where it was in my preshot routine to press the latch. After about 3000 shots it stopped doing that. Just needed worked in, I guess.

 

I had the opposite problem when my 692 X-Trap was new. I couldn't get the latch to close. Yeah, slamming the forend hard with my hand and pressing the latch worked, and eventually it wore in, but I would be interested in a solution to that problem that doesn't involve a file.

 

My 692 has had only 600 - 800 rounds fired and the forearm latch is hard to get completely closed but the latch is flush. It usually takes me two or three tries before I can get it to securely latch.

 

Sadly 692's do seem to have more than their fair share of reliability problems. This is my opinion... But loose forend wood could easily cause this problem. When the gun is closed and the ejector springs fully compressed, the selector isn't under any tension. It is the shoulder of the forend wood where it butts against the metal that holds the selector in position. Any slop in the wood and the selector could move with the vibration of firing and it only needs a few degrees to deselect eject mode. The whole forend needs to be firm and secure on these guns which is probably why they have a built in tensioner. Good luck

 

Can the built in tensioner be adjusted?

 

I couldn't find any info online on how to do that and didn't want to just start monkeying with it. The problem resolved itself over time, but if you know how to adjust it I'd love to know for future reference.

 

check the forearm iron mounting screws, my DT-11 forearm screws came loose in the first couple hundred targets,,, i took them out and cleaned the screws and iron threads, a dab of blue locktight and they have never came loose again.....Steve

 

On an SP-III 687, I needed to tighten the forend on an aftermarket used Unsingle without altering the wood, to allow switching to the original double or the Monotop. (I've loved the Beretta's ubiquity, and therefore the wide availability of accessories, etc.)

So here's a quick, stable, and free hack: I used a thin silicone film "shim" on the main contact area between the forend wood and the Unsingle barrel. This completely eliminated the slight but perceptible looseness. It also tightened the barrel lockup onto action, eliminating any daylight peeking between barrel and action. Silicone is of course impervious to the heat. For this, I harvested the "shim" from a CPAP nasal mask; - it had a graduated thickness, allowing me to "harvest" the appropriate thickness.

Unrelated to that issue, but another example of silicone's usefulness: In another Beretta thread a readers asked about fixing the action's hinge pin (trunion) which had loosened. It was pointed out to be a simple matter of retightening the pin with allen wrench (from the inside). Hoewever that external hinge pin can be tough to keep from rotating with the wrench. The hack: Lay the action on its side - i.e., with that pin down, pressed onto a silicone bushing. Works wonderfully: the silicone washer/bushing is grabby and is thick enough, and its hole keeps the the convex disk centered. ( Isolateit.com is a great source, or a buddy if you have one at an auto body shop.) (The post also could have noted that the pin is turned counterclockwise to tighten.)

 

from what i could tell when my 692 was new i couldnt hardly get the wood to go on the gun. luckily mine was new and had it sent back to beretta usa and they fixed. from what i can see if you take the iron out of the wood you can get to the nut that looks like a wheel and tighten it some. i was going to do this to mine but thought no its new let the manufacturer fix it. but i can say man i sure do love this gun and have put probably 2000 rds through it and no problem what so ever.