I have always read the most bullet for the M1 is M2 ammo with the 147 grain bullet.

I came across a 400 round military tin of M72 Match ammo with 173 grain loads.

I researched the use of this ammo in a Garand and was thinking I would have to use it in a bolt action only.

I came across this site (which comes in as not secure)

.30-06 Springfield Part 2 - Service Rifle Loads — Proven Reloads and Handloads

I was surprised to read the 180 bullet is suggested for reloading for 600 yard shooting.

So here are my question for you M1 experts..,,,

Is it safe to use some loads with bullets larger than 147 grains and if so, is there a pressure max to observe?
Do you shoot LC Match 173 grain in your Garand?

The only bolt actions I have are some trashy National Ordinance I was given and have heard all sorts of horror stories about not safe to shoot.

Any advice? My instinct is to go no larger than 147 grain.

The secret is in the powder selected Rick. It has to burn so the pressure at the gas port is proper. Improper gas supply can cause short cycling.
See: Reloading Data .30-06 M1 Garand Loads Metallic

 

The secret is in the powder selected Rick. It has to burn so the pressure at the gas port is proper. Improper gas supply can cause short cycling.
See: Reloading Data .30-06 M1 Garand Loads Metallic

Thank you, that is what I was looking for in regards to reloads. Can I assume Lake City M72/is safe?

 

Standard M2 ammo. is 150 grain ball. Check out this page out. It gives you all the specs.
.30 Caliber (.30-06 Springfield) Ammunition

 

M72 is safe for use in M1 Garand rifles (if your Garand is mechanically safe to shoot) A simple search of “lake city m72 garand” will give you all the info you need from multiple sources.

 

I have a WWII issue and a current new production Springfield Armory.

Thank you.

 

I am shooting LC match 173 grain .308 in my M1A1.
Steve

 

I use nothing but reloads in my 1944 Springfield made M1. I use Sierra 168 grain HPBT bullets. Like others said, not so much the bullet but the powder burn rate.

 

Just as a point of order, it is not specifically the powder burn rate that is important, but the powder mass that is important to keep your edition of the Greatest Battle Implement Ever Devised running top notch. More powder equals more gas equals more pressure at the gas port; steady diet could be hard on the gun, esp the op rod. I like the 155gr palmas, but I don't shoot 600 yards.

K

 

I doubt I will be shooting 600 yards either. I commented on my surprise reloading 180’s to obtain that distance. My main concern was using M72 (173 grain) match ammo because everybody says, don’t use anything but 150 ball in an M1.

 

The standard back in the day was a 150 gr. Ball bullet. H4895 powders are perfect for the Garand.

I played with the Sierra 168 gr. MK with 4895 and with the correct seating depth, found it to be an awesome off-hand round. It does not shoot quite as well as out of my O3-A3, but is quite a nice round.

Good luck and all the best.

 

 

I do shoot mine. Not near as much as trap shooting but still quite a bit. 1942, 1943, 1943, 1944, 1945, 1945, 1955

 

rick: those that said not to shoot the 173 gr; don't know much about a garand

 

Be alert that older military issue .30-06 ammunition is corrosive primed. There's lots of info on the web on which headstamps are/are not corrosive. They'll fire fine - no worries in that regard. Just clean when you're done shooting so as not to take a chance on rust. The cutoff dates seems to be the late 1940's to early 1950's depending on the arsenal involved.

 

Any american made military ammunition made after 1945 is non corrosive. Also except for experimental ammo you will ever run across. Any m2 ball ammunition is safe to shoot in a garand

 

Not true.
The Frankford Arsenal Match ammunition for '53, '54, and '56 was corrosive. Know what you are shooting before you damage a valuable firearm.

 

The M72 Match ammo that was the subject of this post is not corrosive.

 

Here's the ammo info contained in the manual that came with my Garand from the CMP. 180 grain bullets or less and you're good to go.

 

Here's a guide for corrosive/non corrosive.
USGI Ammo Primer Guide (Corrosive vs Non-Corrosive) **For Reference Use**

As stated by previous posters, all of these are safe to shoot in a Garand in good condition. You just want to take appropriate steps to clean.

 

Hornady has a special pamphlet with reloading data for the M1 Garand, M1 carbine, M1a1, and the AR service rifle. It gives several bullet and powder options for each caliber.

 

https://www.handloadermagazine.com/m1-garand-handloads

 

I have a book called The Complete M1Garand the part that concerns me is the operating rods they can work fine right up till they kill you can be one round away or five thousand at the least you will loose your boyish looks and maybe a nose or an eye,lefties usually die.It does have pictures of rods that should be safe,we have a collector nearby that lost his eye a few years ago at that time he had 16 of them he was using I need to find him again and see if it was an early or post rod that got him.Post was the safe ones.

 

I intend to use factory surplus, I have a lot of it for the M1’s. I have an FN49 for 30-06 reloads. This one is not mine, but such a nice picture.

 

garand non corrosive ammo didn't become universally non corrosive until around 1952. there is a lot of info out there about this.

 

Winchester commercial Match ammo in the late 60's had corrosive primers. Marked on the box. Rule of thumb about US military ammo. Blue or black primer sealer is corrosive. Orange or red is non corrosive (I am sure there are exceptions). Lake City, (LC), Remington (RA), and Winchester (WRA) Military ammo with '53 and later date stamps is going to be non corrosive.

Google is your friend. Basically no "Superformance" or Light Magnum ammo, no factory ammo over 180 gr. for the 30/06. The 172 gr Military Match load at 2640 fps is okay in the Garand. The action is very strong, but the Op rod is not. The gas system is regulated for a specific port pressure . I highly recommend an extra power Chrome Silicon Op Rod spring. A ported gas plug will make your Op Rod live longer. 4895, Accurate 2520, and Alliant 2000MR work sell in the Garand in either caliber. 2000MR leaves less carbon deposits in the gas system (hint hint M1-A shooters). A case full of 4350 will kill your Op Rod. The Op Rod has seven bends, the eighth one will kill it.

Don't care for the 7.62 in the Garand.

The M1-A is more finicky, and is subject of another discussion. I shot both on a Service Rifle team in another life, and loaded a boatload of ammo for both. Still have the M1-A.