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Have a 1963 Model 12. When I dry fire I realize I need to give it a little forward push to open the action but this extremely difficult and 90% of the time wont open. After firing a live shell, the action will release maybe 50% of the time. What should I be looking at to remedy this?
 

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Problem probably is due to short trigger. This allows the hammer to rest in a higher position and the hook on the action slide lock is hitting lug that holds the hammer down so it won't fire out of battery. Also you may have a problem with the action lock springs bent, weak or broken. This all has to do with timing of the trigger, sear and hammer working geometry. Easy fix and not to expensive but requires some fitting. Suggest you have an knowledgeable M12 gunsmith repair it. M12 gunsmiths are getting scarce. I love them and my wife says that I am a hoarder.
 

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Have a 1963 Model 12. When I dry fire I realize I need to give it a little forward push to open the action but this extremely difficult and 90% of the time wont open. After firing a live shell, the action will release maybe 50% of the time. What should I be looking at to remedy this?
The Model 12 repair manual lists the following: "Action slide sticks"
1. Action slide binding on recoil spring. (Replace spring)
2. Bent action slide bar. (Straighten or replace action slide)
3. Magazine tube ring loose or broken. (Replace magazine tube)
 

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I found this; maybe it will help you out.

Action Slide Lock

If the action slide lock does not function properly, the activating springs may be worn or broken, so they should be replaced. You should also check to see that the hammer pin has not been driven in too far, thus interfering with the slide lock's function. If the cartridge cut-off is bent, it could cause action slide lock failure.

To remove the safety, make sure it is in the “on” position with the red band not showing. Insert a 1/16-inch punch into the hole in the left end of the inverted safety, then turn the safety 90 degrees toward the front of the trigger guard. This will disengage the activating detent plunger and spring. Remove the punch and push the safety toward the left until the end is flush with the guard. The safety plunger and plunger spring will now pop up and out of their hole in the trigger guard. Check the spring to make sure it is not bent or weak, and examine the plunger tip for any flatness that would cause it not to work properly. Replace the spring or plunger if you have any doubts of their condition.


Keep us posted when you get it fixed.
 

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I found this; maybe it will help you out.

Action Slide Lock

If the action slide lock does not function properly, the activating springs may be worn or broken, so they should be replaced. You should also check to see that the hammer pin has not been driven in too far, thus interfering with the slide lock's function. If the cartridge cut-off is bent, it could cause action slide lock failure.

To remove the safety, make sure it is in the “on” position with the red band not showing. Insert a 1/16-inch punch into the hole in the left end of the inverted safety, then turn the safety 90 degrees toward the front of the trigger guard. This will disengage the activating detent plunger and spring. Remove the punch and push the safety toward the left until the end is flush with the guard. The safety plunger and plunger spring will now pop up and out of their hole in the trigger guard. Check the spring to make sure it is not bent or weak, and examine the plunger tip for any flatness that would cause it not to work properly. Replace the spring or plunger if you have any doubts of their condition.


Keep us posted when you get it fixed.
I still feel his problem lies in the geometry of the trigger, action slide lock and hammer. The hammer pin could have worked its way to the left and protruding under the action slide lock. I have never encountered this but definitely could the issue. As to the issue being up in the magazine tube or the action slide I doubt this the case. Hope he gets it running and would be interested in what was causing the problem. Having it in my hands would make it a lot easier to trouble shoot.
 

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Ram,
As Bluegoose said there are two springs staked to the slide lock. Chances are one is broken causing the slide lock to not disengage. They can be replaced with .025 spring wire and restaked. Not easy but it can be done. Dale
 

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Ram,
As Bluegoose said there are two springs staked to the slide lock. Chances are one is broken causing the slide lock to not disengage. They can be replaced with .025 spring wire and restaked. Not easy but it can be done. Dale
Replacing the springs is much less $$$ than replacing the action slide lock. As you said not an easy task but can be done. They are available also as ready to install at several places which would eliminate obtaining spring wire to make them from.
 

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I had a M12 not to long ago that the release lever hook was hitting on the the triangular boss on the hammer. No matter how hard the lever was pushed the hammer had fall to open the action. I know not same effect.

I have had a burr that was raised on the end of the release that rides on the end of the action slide arm. A burr on the slide arm can be as bad.

But light use of a file to gently smooth the burrs
 
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I had a M12 not to long ago that the release lever hook was hitting on the the triangular boss on the hammer. No matter how hard the lever was pushed the hammer had fall to open the action. I know not same effect.

I have had a burr that was raised on the end of the release that rides on the end of the action slide arm. A burr on the slide arm can be as bad.

But light use of a file to gently smooth the burrs
Yes, as I said short trigger which allows the hammer to set in a higher position therefore the hook hits the lug on the side of the hammer and can't go any farther to unlock the action slide. I always dress (polish) the end of the action slide and the mating end of the action slide lock.
 
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