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I have a spolar I use for 12 gauge. It really does a nice job. I have 1000s of AA hulls and load them once and then done because my stepdaughter keeps me in good supply of once fired hulls. When she goes off to college I will start loading them 2-3 times and be done. When Spolar set this up for me, i told them what I was loading and per the video they have the AA, STS, Nitro 27 hulls will load them same.

Not to get into what I am loading, powder, wad, etc....but I use Win 209 Primers which on a AA hull they slide in perfect. When I run an STS or Nitro 27 hull in the mix, the load is perfect, crimp is perfect, but the primer sticks out just a tiny bit more than it does on a AA.

Should I use a Rem primer on those, or how would I fix that? Dicksie told me how to do it, but I forgot and have a huge bucket of STS I need to load.

I am trying to load 8 shot in the red AA hulls
7.5 in STS green hulls
And the Nitro 27 and any non red AA hull is my handicap loads.

Makes it easier for me to go by color when I am loading them out of the buckets of hulls, or if I want a certain load to go shoot.
 

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That's strange because they recommend using only Win primers. I load nothing but Remington STS, Nitro, and AA hulls, sometimes all at the same time.

My only issue is with wad setting height and crimp closure. I also load with Cheddite from time to time.
Jamie
 

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Steve,
I have that problem on my MEC 9000 with cheddites on the first reload of my once fired N27/STS shells. It usually is from not pulling all the way to the bottom of the stroke to fully seat it. I think they are slightly larger than the Rem. primer that is coming out. I have to make a conscious effort to bottom the stroke when loading once fired, and if I go slow on the down stroke I can really feel the extra pressure it takes to fully seat them. That is usually followed by the turret getting hung up and snapping to the next station spilling something. Not sure if Win. have the same problem, cheddites don't mic. any different than Rem. with my Micrometer.
 

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You're not pulling the handle down far enough to seat the primer, or your primer seating station doesn't have enough stroke to seat the primer 100%.
 

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This is a common problem when loading non Rem primers in once fired Rem hulls. The two solutions are to load Rem primers in Rem hulls Or live with the extended Win primers for the first loading. Subsequent loadongs will be better. The primer cups in Rem hulls are made for Rem primers. They will eventually swedge to other primers after the first reloading
John
 

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Ok, all once fired from my Spolar Win 209 primer. See how they stick out a little more than ok AA Hull?

Supposed to be able to load them back to back. I do. This just bugs me.


Thoughts? Fixes?
I had that happen initially. Adjusted the setting one half turn and everything was good. If you need help, call Cole at Spolar.
 

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By the way, I use the hydraulic model. I load STS, Nitro, and AA. I prefer 1 oz loads reserved for the AA hulls (red or dark grey). I use 1 1/8 in the Rem hulls. It just makes it easily visually to identify which load I am shooting. I do find that the “red” AA don’t reload as many times as the others.
 

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This is a common problem when loading non Rem primers in once fired Rem hulls. The two solutions are to load Rem primers in Rem hulls Or live with the extended Win primers for the first loading. Subsequent loadongs will be better. The primer cups in Rem hulls are made for Rem primers. They will eventually swedge to other primers after the first reloading
John
Never had that issue. The hyd pump is set to by pass(the psi to by pass also in the yellow manual, think its 300 without me looking?) If the primer is not seating its not adjusted correctly. Simple 30 second fix with a allen wrench......reading that big yellow instruction manual will show the way on how....

The spolar is a positive type primer drive, not spring loaded like a MEC...
 

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Primers have different depths & once fired rem hulls can leave a slightly high primer. I simply adjust the primer seat rod. The hulls plastic is so soft primers seat flush & theres no discernable distortion to the hulls base.
You can see how to adjust the primer seating rod in Spolars troubleshooting video online.
 

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What jmac_cope says is right on,I load with a Spolar hydro also and have been for about 19 years,maybe more?The once fired STS & Nitro's have a lot of plastics inside of the primer pockets,this is where the problem comes from.From the pic,the primers are set too high.I set my primer depth to about 1/16 " showing,when loading once fired STS and Nitros,when you fire the shell for the first time it will fire form the primer pocket hull and when you load the second time no adjustment is necessary,I have been using this method for a very long time.You will be able to drop in a A/A shells and it will come out perfect also.Some people drill out the primer pocket to get the primers to fit the first reloading,but this is a waste of time,IMHO?
 

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Win primers are slightly larger then sts. Once you press them in they should seat flush next reload. I would just adjust the primer seating to compensate
 

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The problem you are experiencing is a result of the difference in shape (dimensions) between a Remington and a Winchester primer.

Remington primers are more narrow at the bottom(leading edge) of the primer cup. In a once fired Remington hull, the plastic base wad is formed to the narrower Remington primer.

Some people (I being one of them) will de-prime once fired Remington hulls and then push them over a #1 (0.228) drill bit to clear out that excess plastic. This will solve the problem when using the Winchester primer and only needs to be done one time.
 

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There are a lot of correct answers here about the Win 209 in Remington Hulls. I see it as a configuration difference. You can catch your finger nail on the under edge of the rim of the primer, even when the primer is seated. It is worse the first time, but improves. The primer seating depth does not change, increasing it might push the base of the hull in.
Dicksie
 

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Yepp,Dicksie,your'e right on,this is why I choose to use the fire forming method,it eliminates the need of adjusting the primer depth,setting the primer depth deeper,can bend the brass on the shell and making you tweak the shell adjustments again and possibly again?Once your primer depth is set,you shouldn't have to go and readjust it at all?I change all kinds of shell's and rarely do I have to tweak the primer depth,if at all?
 
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