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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I moved the cord to the left of the handle so it pulls directly out of the reel. That seemed to help some, but I'm wondering what could cause this?

The only time I've seen this is when I tried to start a mower without a blade. I checked this blade to see if it might be a short replacement and it isn't.

Mower is a Toro 5 horse power push.

P_20160703_150249.jpg
 

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If engine timing is off, you may have a damaged or broken Woodruff Key. It locates the flywheel on the crankshaft. The flywheel has magnets that fire the ignition coil at the proper time. Take the cover off, remove the retainer nut and washer, locate the key and see if it is damaged.

Takes a $15 puller to break the flywheel loose, the keys are sold in three packs. Make sure you use factory keys, they are soft so they break instead of the $$$ flywheel.

Youtube is your friend, this is an easy check and fix. If you need a longer cord, that is easy as well.
 

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Shooting Coach has a good suggestion. I've had Briggs do this when starting from the cold condition and the mixture was still too lean. Kinda like when you try to get one to accelerate and it's not quite warm enough so it pops and spits back at you. If you're unlucky enough to have ahold of the cord when it does this, it'll make you appreciate electric starters, that's for sure. ;-) Might try hitting the primer bulb a couple more times? If it won't start and only does this, the Shooting Coach has it and the key is likely sheared off. When and if you replace the key, remember this, you will need to tighten the flywheel nut "excessively", otherwise it may shear the new one off on the first pop out of the engine. Good luck, Joe.

Bob Falfa
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That reminds me of the original problem. The shut off cable was frozen so it wouldn't start. The flywheel was locked and owner had been trying to start it. Something might be spun, indeed!
 

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It doesn't take much. Even a slight mark on the key will throw it out of time. Come to think of it, I don't know if I ever saw one completely sheared off and I have changed a bunch of them.
 

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I've had several small engines build up carbon on top of the piston, create too much compression, and act like they "lock up" during starting.

Most were worn, and used some oil, but one was a chain saw that an older customer mixed too rich with oil, and didn't operate it at high RPMs.

Hope it's just the key.
 

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My start regime for my mower and tiller

Slowly pull the recoil starter handle until resistance is felt, Piston should then be at Top Dead Center then pull quickly holding the pull rope out keeping the recoil starter teeth from re- engaging , and kicking back. If you get a ignition spark the flywheel momentum should allow for a complete revolution starting the engine. Then slowly return the recoil starter handle.

Eddie
 

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I had a B&S that I hit a tree root with while I was mowing. I finished the rest of the yard & it ran fine, but after I shut it off, it wouldn't start again. The key had a small mark on it. I replaced the key & it started right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, did the Sea Foam, oil change, blade sharpen, etc. Good reminder on the Sea Foam. If it's not the key, I'll pull the head and take a look.

Starting regimen described by Eddie is the only way to start it and save your hand.
 

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Joe,

Are you sure the 'paws' in the recoil start are releasing correctly??

If they don't let go the mower will try to pull the rope back in (the wrong way) until something 'gives.'

Food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Rope goes back in just fine when it's cold and doesn't start. Paws seem fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
You guys were right. The key has a groove in it.

upload_2016-7-9_21-55-11.png


Looks like aluminum. Maybe I can find aluminum that size at Ace.

I could see it as soon as I took the nut off.

upload_2016-7-9_21-57-52.png
 
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