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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a primer (other than the expensive Remington STS) that will fully seat into the 20 gauge STS hull? I noticed that while Remington primers fully seat nicely into the pocket, other brands of primers stick out a little, and won't fully seat.
 

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The other option is to take a #1 drill bit and ream out the offending plastic.
I put mine in a battery operated drill without the battery. Hold the chuck and just push the unprimed hull down and up.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The other option is to take a #1 drill bit and ream out the offending plastic.
I put mine in a battery operated drill without the battery. Hold the chuck and just push the unprimed hull down and up.

Jason
It would seem to me that just paying the extra $20 for the Remington primers would pay for itself by saving all the hassle of reaming out the 1000 pockets. JMO
 

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You must be reloading on a progressive press for you to be having problems. The number 1 drill bit is best bet. I use win 209s in all my hulls. The sts/gun clubs/Nitros being one piece plastic you have a bit of plastic you have to deal with for the second firing. You could always buy cheap mec 600 just to prime hulls too. Yes it's an extra step but hell I trim every hull I reload so what the heck.
 

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You must be reloading on a progressive press for you to be having problems. The number 1 drill bit is best bet. I use win 209s in all my hulls. The sts/gun clubs/Nitros being one piece plastic you have a bit of plastic you have to deal with for the second firing. You could always buy cheap mec 600 just to prime hulls too. Yes it's an extra step but hell I trim every hull I reload so what the heck.
I load STS and Nitros on a 9000 with W209s, never had to ream any hull, if your machine is set correctly, why would you do that?

Lower the primer/powder tube until you get the correct pressure.
 

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Marbax I have a sizemaster and have never ever had a problem but the people who I hear having problems with a win 209 in a rem hull are usually using a progressive press. Also it's not reaming the number 1 drill bit removes just a small amount of plastic. I don't do it. Some do.
 

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As others have suggested, adjust your reloader properly.
MG
I'm not sure what "proper adjustment" looks like on a P-W but I adjusted one press (a 900) to the point where the primer assembly became the crosshead stop. All the downward pressure that could be generated was going into the primer when the press bottomed out but the absence of support on the inside of the base allowed the base to flex upward when the Federal primer hit the plastic lip at the end of the primer tube.

A 15/64" drill bit is a better fit into the Remington primer hole but I'll be damned if I'm gonna waste time modifying hulls so I can load them.
 

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I'm not sure what "proper adjustment" looks like on a P-W but I adjusted one press (a 900) to the point where the primer assembly became the crosshead stop. All the downward pressure that could be generated was going into the primer when the press bottomed out but the absence of support on the inside of the base allowed the base to flex upward when the Federal primer hit the plastic lip at the end of the primer tube.

A 15/64" drill bit is a better fit into the Remington primer hole but I'll be damned if I'm gonna waste time modifying hulls so I can load them.
I guess it's possible that PW's have this problem, I have never used one, so I do not know. This I can tell you, on any Mec, whether progressive or single stage.
They have 0 issues, seating any primer into any hull when they're adjusted adjusted correctly.
MG
 

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This is where my small collection of often-maligned Lee Load-All 2s vindicate themselves. Since I use only P-W presses, they're dandy devices for de-priming/sizing/priming hulls when I want to use oversize primers because they support the hull base from the inside while the primer is going in. When I have as many as I need I can simply unscrew the depriming punch pin from the P-W press and run the pre-primed hulls. I used a Lee to force-feed Fiocchi primers into STS hulls until it broke; then I just swore off STS hulls.
So you need two machines to load one shell?

Why not just use W209 in the STS hulls?
 

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The problem with difficult to seat primers in a P/W is you can dish the base of the hull. P/W restrains the hull by the rim in the shell holder when the primer is seated. MEC and the Hornady 366 have a punch that pushes on the base wad when seating the primer.
 

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I kinda like when they stick out just a bit. After the shot - it is seated for sure, and will seat each time after. I keep my Spolar adjusted this way to avoid a dished hull. Never have any problem closing the gun, and it assures me that the primer gets the proper hit. Never had one fall out, and I load the 20 ga. GC's till they surrender ! I use Win. 209's cause I like the brass center and their dependability. I'm pretty sure that most common loaders have seating adjustments. Spolar makes it quite easy in that department. Regards ES
 
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