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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a like new m12 trap gun made in 1961 awhile back and it had a stain? on the side of the bolt. I tried xxxx steel wool, no change. It is not pitted at all, just a stain, blood perhaps?
What should I try? What do experienced restoration gunsmiths use or recommend?
I appreciate recommendations and comments.

Fred M
 

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If the bolt is Chrome Plated? You can google how to clean Chrome. Try Vinegar and water. Try some aluminum foil soaked with Vinegar as well. Of course you can some commercial cleaners too. Its important to know if you have chrome? or Polished Stainless Steel? Good Luck and don't forget to break em all Jeff
 

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Doubt it’s blood. I don’t think blood would permeate the metal and cause a stain. More likely the metal has tarnished. Assuming the bolt is made out of steel, if polishing with a fine grit compound doesn’t remove it it may be an inherent flaw in the metal that occurred during the manufacturing process.

As an aside, I purchased Krieghoff K20 brand new. After firing less that 500 I noticed the ejector on one of the barrels was “discolored.” Initially I thought it was just u powder. No amount of brushing with any compound I’ve tried has removed it. I’ve now just resigned to ignoring it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks to all! I will keep busy trying the suggestions!
The bolt is standard steel, but looks like from its appearance to have a high chrome content.
After further thought I may try naval jelly because it looks like there was some bluing somewhere inside the receiver and the slide was cycled and left a streak on the side of the bolt. In other words, a slight streak of bluing which is actually a form of rust. This vintage of M12 had the more current hot blue dipped process instead of the former rust blue process. Of course this was for cost reduction reasons. When I bought the gun I thought it had been reblued, but with an outstanding blue job. The gun store who received it for me thought the same. I was disappointed the seller did not tell me it had been reblued. Now I have researched the Winchester Model 12 history and discovered this is, in fact, a new gun from December 1961. Wow, am I fortunate!
 

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I have a ‘61 Model 12 also and the bluing and finish is outstanding. I too suspected it had been reblued but now I’m pretty sure it is original.

Good luck with the stain removal - I’ve also had very good luck with Flitz.
 

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I'd just tell people it's a hard-earned accumulation of grease and gunsmoke. It happens to M12s.

The bolts were not chrome plated, as was suggested.

Use some manner of fine polish to work out the stain, as others have suggested. Chemicals (naval jelly, vinegar, etc) should be avoided as they have the annoying habit of leaving behind their own mark, usually a light gray color that could be harder to get rid of than the stain itself. Know that some stains simply will not come out without serious degradation of the surface you are trying to restore.
 

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I'll tell you with all the varied replies post to this thread proves the worthlessness of the internet.
To remove dried oil just use more oil.
Simple, easy to use, and no chance of ruining your blued finish. A general statement, Flitz will ruin the finish. No antique restorer ever uses Flitz.
Without seeing a picture of your bolt your best advice was given in Post #11 by wm rike. Leave it alone. It is the nature of the beast.
 

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mod 12 bolts were never a high polish. i would use 400 grit and maybe finish with 600. and before anyone mentions it; you will not remove any excess metal that would do any harm. that is not a "locking" area of the bolt. in fact, the "Y" issue of mod. 12 bolts were recessed on that area and the bolts were jeweled. and the bolts never made contact on that side ; so the jeweling was never worn off
 
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