The only time some Ljutics have a problem ejecting hulls is with the steel based hulls. If you reload or only shoot premiums, you won't have any problems. Both of mine ejected Fed Top Guns, too, just had some problems with Rios and Gun Clubs. Just depends on what you primarily shoot, if you're buying a used Ljutic, see if you can shoot a few rounds with it and use the shells you plan on shooting through it, it might eject everything just fine, or it might have some problems with the steel based hulls, shooting it will be the only way to tell, though.
It should be noted that Ljutic is not the only gun that does not reliably eject steel-based shells...many of the finest shotguns suffer the same "problem" ... which is that the ejector's initial movement is spring activated rather than cam activated, so shells that expand unduly and stay that way may get stuck with a spring-activated extractor. Assuming that the gun feels tight and you're happy with the cosmetics, I'd also look at the hinge and crossbolt to see if there is galling...also drop out the trigger to see if there are any obvious issues. As a personal preference, I'd look for a Centennial ribbed gun, and if you can't find one, look for the mid-ribbed gun. Also, the stainless receiver is a very nice feature, but it bumps up the price somewhat. All good.
My 1976 Ljutic has hung a few WW from Wally World and some Gun Club reloads. The gun is a new acquisition for me and I've only run 250 rounds though it. Love the gun so I have bought 1,000 AA hulls to use exclusively in it from now on.
I suspect the early guns have slightly larger chambers and the steel hull gets stretched beyond its elasticity point and it doesn't shrink back like brass hull.
I'd check the muzzle end of the barrel and see if Ljutics spiral machining at the choke is still there which would tell you if someone has had the choke worked on. Factory correct barrels are a must. If you don't find the spiraling on the choke end.......keep looking for another gun.
I have owned 8 Lguns and some had problems ejecting steel based hulss while others didn't.
The easiest remedy was to polish the chamber and keep it polished. The other way waa to have a gunsmith slightly "open up" the chamber up to the point where the metal base transitioned to the plastic part of the hull.
Charger: another thing to look at is the forearm wood. Remove forearm and turn up side down. Inside is a flat strap used to keep the wood tight. Sometimes the wood will be cracked around that. Very durable gun that will last forever. Birdtracker
I own a mid-rib Mono in the 36xx range, bought it 3 years ago, but only used it 1 season. I tried switching from Gun Clubs to Rios to save $$, but started having shell ejection problems -- shells would stick in the chamber. I gave a call out to Nadine & she indicated that I wasn't the first person to call regarding Rios. So, I went back to Gun Clubs and no more problems.
BTW -- I'm interested in selling the gun, so if interested, contact me off line. As stated, used 1 season, carefully handled. 34", 30/70, barrel done by Wilkinson.
You want one of the newer Ljutics, a serial number above 1200 as the Bbls are hooded, that is the barrell covers the base of the shell, if you look at an earlier Ljutic you will see what I mean, those guns the base of the sheel is even with the Bbl and reciever and not covered by the barrell shroud. Iv'e owned both styles my first one was a 7** serial number the later ones were over 2600, and much prefer the Mid Rib styles.