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I just viewed a YouTube video on disassembly and maintenance of the Winchester Super-X1 shotgun. In the clip the gunsmith suggests waxing various parts of the gun with Renaissance wax. Has anyone on here ever done this? To me it would seem that that combined with the oil he suggests you apply would only cause more problems. The near thirty minute video otherwise is an excellent one though for any owners of the Super-X1 shotgun.
 

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I agree. I use the Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish on my trap guns as well as field guns including metal and wood. Good for metal or the wood. No finger prints. You apply it with a soft cloth and buff gently. It dries hard instantly, resists liquids and does not show finger marks. In my opinion it is the finest you can buy and is used by peoiple who do restoration in museums and to protect valuable furniture, leather, paintings, metals, marble, ivory and many other surfaces housed and exposed to weather. It freshens colors. Google it and you can buy it on line. Little goes long ways and you will not be disapointed.
 

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I watched the video. link above. He didn't cover taking off the rear stock and dealing with the recoil spring and tube, but other than that it was a good video. I don't wax any of the parts that he does, but just use a good CLP on everything. Mark
 

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A late friend used to wax his Rem 1187 Special Purpose. These have a matte finish that holds moisture in the field. He put on a lot of wax to make it more rust resistant in the rain. I do not know what product he used.
 

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I have used Johnson paste wax on guns, woodworking tools, and machine tools, and it sure stops a lot of surface rust

The woodworking tools and machine tools will sweat when they get real cold then a humid warm front blows through, they will literally drip, so they get rusty, the paste wax stops the rust

Might check into the Renaissance wax though, might be a little better but the Johnson's has worked for many years
 

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From the Bergara barrels website.

Q: How can I avoid rust?

A:

Clean your gun regularly inside and out. Wipe it down during and after handling with an oily rag. If you live or hunt in heavy humidity or salt laden air you must go even farther to protect your gun’s finish. A simple, but very effective, remedy to the rust problem is to give your gun a good wax job with any good quality, non-abrasive car wax at the beginning of the season. Maintain this protective film as needed. It sounds silly, but it works. This applies to both stainless steel and blued guns alike.
 

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How about something like BoeShield? Goes on like a thick oil, but drys to a waxy finish. Not exactly cheap, but probably easier to apply than some other alternatives, and Sears carries it.
 

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Got ya all beat!

I use military grade cosmoline from a 55 gal drum in the barn.

Just shoot it til it is good and hot, then dip it in the barrel.

Problem solved, and you have that great smell, along with those much desired heat waves on real hot days. (Just a joke)

Seriously though, in the 1970's I worked in a GM garage doing heavy engine work.

Buick had a lot of piston problems, so we changed out lots of short blocks.

Well, warranty would not pay to clean all this rust preventative, from the block.

Of coarse, it was sprayed all over the inside and outside, so we had to clean the pistons and lifter galley, along with the complete outside of the block. Then, if you really cared, you shot a couple coats of Buick red on the block.

A fellow tech said if they were not paying, he wasn't cleaning, so he didn't clean out very much inside, and none outside.

You can imagine how much crap we caught when the customer got this home, and more and more of this thick junk started running on their garage floor.

Buick soon started paying for a certain amount of metal prep.
 

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Never done the outside..use white lithium grease on metal ..and lemon beeswax on the wood...I do use Nu Finish clearcoat scratch remover to buff my 11-87s mag tubes to get the baked on gas residue...gives the seals a nice slick surface to ride and makes future cleanings a breeze..helps it cycle perfect too..I do it about every 400-500rds or so
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought a bottle of Renaissance and have yet to try it. But beware it is expensive! A small bottle maybe not quite as big as a small baby food jar was $17.50 with shipping from the net.
 

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I am 68 years old and I finally got to the bottom of my can of Johnson's Paste Wax that I inherited from my mother in the sixties. I first used it on my '65 Volkswagen when it was new. I wax the outside surfaces of any gun that "needs it". Imagine my surprise when I found that I have another can ready to go.
 

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I use Collinite Insulator Wax on my on my cars & Cycle. A local detailer told me about this product he uses. It was developed for insulators on power lines.I have tried all the high dollar wax out there and find this the best. I did try it on a couple of guns and the only reason I quit is it made the gun quite slippery and I was afraid one of these persons that feel they should pick up everyones gun and check it out would drop it. This is available at some of Advance Auto Stores or online. It comes in a plastic bottle and it thickens to a solid mass. You shake it hard for aminute and it gets liquid again. Wipe it on with soft rag and when it hazes over polish with soft rag.I am going to start using it again on the metal not the stocks. The wax is # 845 and it states on bottle For auto,marine and industrial use.
 

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Me? I do it the easy way: Scotts Liquid Gold furniture polish. Spray some on a micro fleece cloth and wipe down the entire gun with it..... Dan Thome (Trap2)
 
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