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First time post. I load with a 9000G with standard
charge bars. To simplify changing from 1 to 1 1/8 oz loads I’m looking at a univerasl charge bar from Midwest shooters supply. Can anybody give any pros or cons on this particular brand or maybe another? I don’t see one from MEC
 

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The Multi-Scale charge bar has those that love it and those that hate it. I use them in my 12 ga, 20, and 28 ga MEC 9000H machines, but found the MEC fixed bar gave better results in the .410 machine. The small charges in the .410 means the Multi-Scale cavity is way off center, and I was not getting consistent drops. In the other gauges, the adjustable bar allow fine tuning to get the drop I want (both powder and shot) to achieve a good stackup of components, and to achieve multiple shot and powder drop configurations without an infinite number of bars and bushings. I also prefer the red PC baffle vice the metal one packaged with the adjustable bar.
 

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I load on a Mec Jr with one and a 650 with the regular charge bar.
I like the regular charge bar much more, it’s so much easier to drop in a bushing. When I got the Jr with its universal charge bar I thought it was neat.
It’s nice that I can set it exactly where I want it, but it can be real time consuming if it takes several adjustments. Part of this is because I’m shooting a large flake powder and it’s not like adjusting the ball powders I use in my pistols.
 

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Do a search. Start at the bottom of this page. This topic has been covered ad nauseum.

Like noted above, people either love them or hate them.

I just never could see the benefit over just using bushings.
 
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Just curious. Do you weigh your charges to see if they are consistent?
I did Gussers, they were. On a 9000E my powder weight was within a tenth of a grain plus/minus over several hundred shells weighing one or more random charges per hundred once I gained confidence in my setup and technique. I ALWAYS hesitated just slightly at the bottom of the stroke before releasing the buttons.
 
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Try to get a 340 grain shot charge in a WW OEM 20 ga WAA20 wad without an adjustable bar? Take a 7/8 oz bar and stuff aluminum duct tape is one method. Requires a lot of trial & error. The adjustable bar makes it a whole lot easier.
 

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First time post. I load with a 9000G with standard
charge bars. To simplify changing from 1 to 1 1/8 oz loads I’m looking at a univerasl charge bar from Midwest shooters supply. Can anybody give any pros or cons on this particular brand or maybe another? I don’t see one from MEC
Roadrunner,
I'm in the group of those that hate them. If you want one, I'll give it to you for free, you pay the actual shipping cost.
The ones that I have are for progressive machines, not single stage. I really don't recommend them, but if you'd like one, it's yours.
MG
 

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What I found with a UCB is you can dial in a powder load from lot to lot and really zero it in. This is great if you are the type that has one load for everything.

In regards to the shot drop, MEC charge bars are not made to allow the difference between different shot sizes and different shot hardness. If for example you want to charge your loads by true weight, the UCB allows you to adjust the shot side so you can charge weight regards of shot size or hardness. Hard shot will weigh less than pure lead shot and therefore you can add more pellets to the shell while still keeping the legal charge weight, 7/8, 1 and 1-1/8 oz. You will have to do a dozen drops or so to get an average weight on shot.

My only gripe is they are expensive and the body is cast metal which can break. If you do break something, there is no option to buy replacement parts. You break it, you shell out another 5o bucks to replace it. Take up mg1polo’s offer.
 
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Roadrunner,
I'm in the group of those that hate them. If you want one, I'll give it to you for free, you pay the actual shipping cost.
The ones that I have are for progressive machines, not single stage. I really don't recommend them, but if you'd like one, it's yours.
MG
Can’t beat that price!
 

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Threads being what they are, there is an infinitesimal amount of slack present. Proper setting of adjustable bars is to make the setting a little more than you need, and then fine tune by counterclockwise turn till it's right. That way the shoe is at its maximum opening, and will not change. If you need more, go out, and then turn it back.

These bars are fine if you take the time to understand them
We chewed this cabbage before, a year or two ago.

HM
 

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Threads being what they are, there is an infinitesimal amount of slack present. Proper setting of adjustable bars is to make the setting a little more than you need, and then fine tune by counterclockwise turn till it's right. That way the shoe is at its maximum opening, and will not change. If you need more, go out, and then turn it back.
That’s not what my instructions say ....
 
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