Ultra Sonic cleaners
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9,941 Posts
They work great and get crud out that you never can get at otherwise.
You can take a consciously cleaned receiver and put it in an ultrasonic bath on a white sheet of paper. When it's done, you will have a clear outline of the receiver made up of stuff you "missed."
Neil
You can take a consciously cleaned receiver and put it in an ultrasonic bath on a white sheet of paper. When it's done, you will have a clear outline of the receiver made up of stuff you "missed."
Neil
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1,115 Posts
An ultrasonic in itself cannot harm a finish. What you use as a cleaning medium in the ultrasonic is what has potential for harm, but it would be harmful with or without ultrasonic cleaning.
I use ultrasonics all day, every day in my lab.
Regards,
Chip
I use ultrasonics all day, every day in my lab.
Regards,
Chip
An excellent degreasing solution for an ultrasonic is 1/3 isopropyl alcohol, 1/3 ammonia, 1/3 dishwashing detergent(diluted with water 50/50). Be sure if you lay any object in the cleaner that has a prized finish that you are careful to allow the weight to bear on an area that is not visible. The ultrasonic waves will cause motion to the object that will cause abrasion against whatever it is resting on. You could also simply place a soft thick cloth underneath the item. If you want to know how well your unit is working place your fingers in the tank while the unit is running. You should feel a tingle that is a slight bit uncomfortable. In general you will not get it any cleaner than an ultrasonic can do.
We use Chem-Crest 235 in a large heated ultrasonic cleaner. It is used on Glocks, Rem 870's and AR-15's. It's a detergent and is water soluable. It does a great job of loosening & removing the carbon build up on AR-15 rotating bolt assemblies. It removes all oil so you have to be dilegent in thoroughly lubricating your firearm after cleaning with it.
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4,946 Posts
I saw a gunsmith use one before. He had a Kgun reciever in a frame or jig and placed it in the machine. He liked it and as he put it its the only way to clean. I'm going to buy one someday.
We used to use R-113 in the lab ultrasonic tank at Westinghouse. Even though it is refrigerant, it is still liquid at 68 degrees F. That stuff would really clean, leaving no residue. Of course it evaporated very rapidly. With the current EPA regulations, could you imagine direct air venting a 50 lb. drum of R-113 a day?
I have used L&R for a number of years. Charlotte Police Dept. cleans all their Officers guns when they come into qualify several times a year. The range officers then do visual inspections on all the firearms for
any problems.
I use the L&R gun cleaning solvent.
Bob Gibson
Charlotte,
NC
any problems.
I use the L&R gun cleaning solvent.
Bob Gibson
Charlotte,
NC
I've worked in medical device business for
40 yrs. You should suspend the parts in your water soap - solution where your part does not touch any thing. Water should be heated at least to 140-160. Get a dish washing soap with a citrus additive. Will be squeakie clean on 10 min. Don't let the soap have a chance to air dry. Put the part directly into cool water. Not cold just cool. Then rinse Theroux. Last rinse on hot water to get the metal hot. Then let air dry and cool down. When dry spray with moisture displacement oil. Rem oil is fine.
If you let the soap a chance to dry before a good rinse then you take a chance of staining the bluing . Bill
40 yrs. You should suspend the parts in your water soap - solution where your part does not touch any thing. Water should be heated at least to 140-160. Get a dish washing soap with a citrus additive. Will be squeakie clean on 10 min. Don't let the soap have a chance to air dry. Put the part directly into cool water. Not cold just cool. Then rinse Theroux. Last rinse on hot water to get the metal hot. Then let air dry and cool down. When dry spray with moisture displacement oil. Rem oil is fine.
If you let the soap a chance to dry before a good rinse then you take a chance of staining the bluing . Bill
I use a Hornady "Lock-n-Load" Ultrasonic cleaner with the Hornady cleaning solution diluted according to Hornady's instructions.
I remove the receiver from the stock, and I remove the trigger group from the receiver. I then place the semi-empty receiver (with the top lever and ejector rods still installed) in the sonic cleaner, where I have previously put the required solution. (The trigger group is cleaned separately.) I set the temperature for around 130 degrees and let the cleaner run for a half hour. Following the cleaning, I rinse the receiver in warm water, then blow it dry with high pressure air. Following that, I spray Rem Oil all over the receiver, and then blow the excess oil away with high pressure air. This leaves the receiver feeling very lightly oiled and looking almost like new. There is no visible residue left anywhere in the receiver.
HOWEVER, I AM NOT THRILLED WITH THE RESULTS.
Each time I have done this, a few days later a small amount of black fluid appears under the top lever. If I wipe it clean, the fluid will reappear a few times, and then finally go away. What I think I am seeing is combustion products dissolved in the cleaning fluid, and neither the ultrasonic process nor the compressed air will drive this mixture out of the inner recesses of the receiver. My guess is that if I fully dissembled the receiver, I might eliminate this problem, but that is much more work that I would like to do just to clean a gun.
I should mention that the problem described above occurs when I clean either my Perazzi or my Kolar using the above procedure.
Ted K.
I remove the receiver from the stock, and I remove the trigger group from the receiver. I then place the semi-empty receiver (with the top lever and ejector rods still installed) in the sonic cleaner, where I have previously put the required solution. (The trigger group is cleaned separately.) I set the temperature for around 130 degrees and let the cleaner run for a half hour. Following the cleaning, I rinse the receiver in warm water, then blow it dry with high pressure air. Following that, I spray Rem Oil all over the receiver, and then blow the excess oil away with high pressure air. This leaves the receiver feeling very lightly oiled and looking almost like new. There is no visible residue left anywhere in the receiver.
HOWEVER, I AM NOT THRILLED WITH THE RESULTS.
Each time I have done this, a few days later a small amount of black fluid appears under the top lever. If I wipe it clean, the fluid will reappear a few times, and then finally go away. What I think I am seeing is combustion products dissolved in the cleaning fluid, and neither the ultrasonic process nor the compressed air will drive this mixture out of the inner recesses of the receiver. My guess is that if I fully dissembled the receiver, I might eliminate this problem, but that is much more work that I would like to do just to clean a gun.
I should mention that the problem described above occurs when I clean either my Perazzi or my Kolar using the above procedure.
Ted K.
Im not a fan. I can harm the finish depending on what your cleaning piece is laying on. also, you'll need to exchange the solution/solvent that you clean with - that may be an issue.
Id use a Bioremediation system/ sink.
I sold them years ago & have purchased my own since.
google
Walter BioCircle.
as chemical consultant - its your best bet..
FYI - just about every gun manufacture is using them now including the K company in Pa along with 4 other locations.
Id use a Bioremediation system/ sink.
I sold them years ago & have purchased my own since.
Walter BioCircle.
as chemical consultant - its your best bet..
FYI - just about every gun manufacture is using them now including the K company in Pa along with 4 other locations.
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