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Need help...my "New to me" TMX opens when firing. Just plain WALLY WORLD 3 dram loads, started last week by "bouncing" the locking lever when firing, now just plain opens. Fired two test rounds, and put it back in the case...Took the stock off and verified that it is clean insidee, but it didn't help...lock lug springs "feel" strong to pressure, and gun has no wiggle at all when closed...any ideas that a non-smith can look at before packing it up for shipping?? Thanks, LarryB
 

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I have no idea but I did have a SKB605 that opened so fast it ejected the shell and closed in the flick of an eye . Hit the puller a few times from station 2 . He thought I was throwing empties at him every time I shot . Had him watch as well as every one else and no one ever seen this happen before . Got rid of the gun . No 3 dram loads either
 

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Replace your lever spring! Had the same thing happen with a TM-1. While you are at it replace all the springs, or you will have the stock off again next month. Jon
 

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Clean the oil or grease off the barrel lugs and clean all the oil off the locking block. Too much oil or grease on these parts will cause this problem. All you need is just one drop of oil on each barrel ear, and no more. Then try it again. If the lever is at about 5:00 o'clock when the gun is closed it should indicate that the locking block is ok and not in need of replacement. As was mentioned above, it wouldn't hurt to replace the top lever spring with the newer heavy duty spring when you get a chance. Cleaning the oil and grease as explained should eliminate the gun popping open. When closing the gun, do not hold the lever over while closing it and then release it. The gun should be closed firmly, not slammed closed. This will allow the locking block to seat properly into the barrel lugs as designed... Just my experience..... Dan Thome (Trap2)
 

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The angle that the lugs are cut at is critical. I had on that had a good block but still came open. Sent it to Dean Harris at Skeet's in Tahlequah, Okla. Problem solved. He does as good work as you can get and generally at a better price. His work is worth more as far as I am concerned.
Tom Ward
 

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Not only is the fit between the locking bolt and the bbl need to be perfect, but the angles of the two also need to be correct. Most all of the TM-1s and probably the TMXs as well started their life out with a 10 degree or so angle. Ten degrees is the maximum amount of angle you want on most break open gun with such a locking system.

When the gun is fired, the amount of spring pressure helps some to keep the gun closed, but the biggest "component" is the angle. During the shot, the bbl should pinch the locking bolt preventing it from moving. the lesser the angle, the tighter the bolt locks.

Seven degrees begins a locking taper. If the bolt and bbl were at seven degrees, you could not push the top lever open once you closed the gun. I know, I've experimented with that several times. Eight degrees works the best. It's also why shooters talk about the Rem90-T having the locking system "updated" to 8 degrees from ten. The ten degree angle just didn't hold well enough within all the same models.

Somewhere here during the past several years I explained the process we used at Kolar to correct the guns from popping open. With an eight degree bolt and bbl, we cold remove the top lever springs, manually close the gun and shoot it 25 times without the top lever moving. Couldn't do that at ten degrees.

When A Perazzi comes into the shop for a locking bolt rebuild or replacement, I now automatically recut the bbl lugs to 8 degrees, and refit the locking bolt to that. One other thing with the TM-1s that do come into the shop, most have had the locking bolt replace at least once, some many times. And, on those guns, I'm very apt to find that somewhere along the way the bbl lugs have been filed on and that the angle can run from a 5 degree mis-match all the way up to 20 degrees. The real bad ones need to have the bbl lugs welded up, reshape, and the new angle cut.

If you want to try a new spring first...don't forget, there are two springs in that TMX.

Doug
 

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Probably a bad gun, for the right price I would take it off your hands...haha just kidding. Great gun and the Gun Dr can help you get it right.
Mark
 

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I do not agree with anyone that claims that the problem is the result of too much lube in the wrong place. Th gun absolutely should not shoot open no mater how much lube is applied. If it shoots open there is a mechanical problem....SMOKIT
 

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You guys may be right about the lube but I have had this problem with a TM1 that started doing it during a steady rain. Cleaned it out, dried it completely with lacquer thinner and it immediately quit doing it! Next, was a Ljutic that got the same treatment-lacquer thinner. Now, my Seitz! I guess you could say they all had mechanical problems but it sure is funny that the lacquer thinner fixed all 3?! Tom Rhoads
 

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I had the same experience that Tom R. had with my MX-14L this fall while shooting doubles in the rain. The squad let me dry it out and it didn't do it again,but the lever return spring did seem a little weak. Whiz just replaced it for me last week. What's even funnier is that the quy shooting a DB-81 on the same squad had his open several times also. He said it was the first time it had ever happened. ???????

Steve Elliott
 

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Ever feel like a babe in the woods compared to Gun Dr. I'm sure glad I said something correct. You could have made a bufoon out of me easily. Thanks for being a gentelman. Now your good friend. Tom Ward
 

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I think the angles have to match up so that the locking block wedges into the barrel lug tight. I think that the use of a cleaner helped to get rid of the residue and grease buildup, so that the spring was not working against the resistance. Now, If you replace the top lever springs, and clean everything else out of grime, you will not have this problem. You will feel the difference of the pressure it takes to move the top lever right away. These are the same springs that are holding the locking block, or action bolt in place, via the top lever locking piece (No. 5111). These are the springs that need replacing. Part No. 5130(Top lever spring), and No. 5121, most important (Top lever return spring). They fit inside each other on the nub of the top lever locking piece. Would recommend a gunsmith, but it is a relatively easy fix. Just make sure you hold the top lever locking piece in while you knock out the pin, or you will either loose an eye or the locking piece itself. Could be your top lever lock pin, and spring also. These may be old part numbers but can be cross referenced. Jon
 

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I think Tom is tired of smokin! LOL
 
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