[gyrine]

Is there a simple, do it at home with common tools, way to convert a Perazzi TM1 from ejecting a shell to simply extracting it so it can be removed with the fingers? Thanks for any info. gyrine

 

[whiz white]

Sure is...

Remove the ejector, remove the long coil and ejector spring plunger, and keep them out. It will only rise and not SPRING open.

Good idea to keep clean the area behind the ejector at the right angle. Build-up here has a tendency to cause metal fatigue and then they break.

Whiz

 

[GunDr]

Ther are two ways...

1) Remove the ejector trip rod from the receiver. The ejector will not trip. The drawback to this is that the ejector will only raise to the same spot as an unfired shell. If your empties tend to be sticky, you might have trouble pulling the hull from the chamber.

2)Remove the ejector trip rod AND remove the ejector sear, spring, and plunger from the forend iron. This method will allow the ejector to raise up further, to the same point it does now with a fired shell.

One point to remember...with the ejetor disabled, it is possible to open the gun after firing, pull the empty, reload and close the gun, but never having the gun opened far enough to re-cock the hammer. Most shooters are aware that when the ejector trips (goes click), the hammer is cocked. It's kind of a tell-tale sign.

Another option is to clip the ejector springs shorter to weaken them. The ejector will still trip, but without any autority.

Doug Braker

 

[GunDr]

Whiz,

The ejector springs must be kept in for the ejector to raise up. There's nothing mechanical...only the springs and plungers.

 

[setter]

To remove ejector - insert a paper clip in larger hole at right angle to ejector, depress ejector slightly, push down with paper clip, slowly release pressure on ejector.

 

[gyrine]

Thanks guys, but now I am really confused. Does this mean I have to make modifications to the action, the barrel assembly and the iron in the forestock? When I hold the barrel in my left hand I see a large hole on the right side. If I depress the ejector I see a small, paperclip size hole inside the larger hole. On the left side I see a small hole, paperclip size. I am at a disadvantage because I am not familar with the nomenclature. Is there a site that has a blown up schematic that will help me figure out what everyone is talking about? I don't mind clipping the spring if I had a replacement on hand. Thanks, gyrine

 

[setter]

I did this for my wife's TM-1 to reduce the force required to close the gun and it was easier for her to manually save the empty. Inside the "paperclip size hole inside the larger hole" there is a plunger and a spring. There is a corresponding slot in the ejector, this allows the ejector to travel to & fro but keeps it captive. Depress the ejector, so that, the plunger can be depressed with the paper clip and let the springs ease the ejector free. Once the ejector is out, remove the ejector springs and the ejector springer plungers. Re-install the ejector. That's it.

 

[GunDr]

This is just for weakening the ejector springs, NOT for disabling the ejector....


You will need either a padded vise or someone to help hold the bbl.

1)Pushing in on the ejector, you will see a very small hole in the ejector..from the larger hole side of the mono-block.

2)Poking a straightened paper clip into this hole , while depressing the ejector, you will feel the spring loaded punger on the other side.

3)While depressing the plunger with the paper clip, allow the ejector to move out. It will onlt go as far as the paper clip.

4)Pull the paper clip out. You may need to use a pliers.

5)It's highly likely that the ejector will NOT move, and if it does, it will be a small amount. The reason being is that the slot that the plunger rides in, has developed a burr or bump on the muzzle end. You will need to take a plastic hammer a tap on the end of the ejectors tail. Don't whack it hard, just light taps. You should see the ejector move each time. Eventually the plunger will clear the widest part of the ejector and rest against the side of the narrower tail.

6)Be careful while removing the ejector (now by hand). Do not lose the plunger or spring once the ejector is out. The plunger is not under a lot of pressure, so it shouldn't come firing out and across the room.

7)Wash everything, clip your springs(it you want)and file down the burr on the end of the slot. The slot side of the ejector should be flat and level....no bumps anywhere.

When reassembling, slip the plunger and spring back into place. You'll need to depress the plunger into it's hole until the tail of the ejector gets there. The tail will hold it there. Continue to push the ejector in. The plunger will ride up the angle cut (compress itself)until it drops back into the slot.

 

[gyrine]

Thank you both for the helpful advise. How many coils should I remove from the spring? If the spring and plunger is totally removed does the ejector just lay up against the breach face so the shooter has to pull the hull free with a fingernail or does the ejector still move a little aft when the gun is opened? gyrine

 

[setter]

First, there are two ejector springs. Without the springs the hull is raised 1/10 of an inch.

 

[gyrine]

Ok, 2 ejector springs. Where is the second one located?

 

[setter]

They are alongside each other and both come out at the same time when you use the procedure described above.

 

[gyrine]

Everyone keeps saying "springs" in the plural. How many are there all together in the monobloc. I know there is the one big one that provides the kick. Are there one or two more which just push the extractor away from the breach face? In other words if I take the big spring and plunger out is there still a spring, springs that will lift the shell a short distance from the breach face? I am starting to understand the old saying,"a picture is worth a thousand words". Thanks all, gyrine

 

[setter]

"How many are there all together in the monobloc" 3, 2 power the ejector and 1 that holds another type of plunger in place which keeps the ejector in place. Its at the bottom of the hole where you stick the paper clip.



"Are there one or two more which just push the extractor away from the breach face?" Literally, no. There are two springs that power the ejector. Take your barrels off and examine the space between the ejector and the barrel. Should see two round pins, these are the ejector springer plungers. Behind them are the ejector springs. Its in holes in the barrel which have been provided to house these parts.

"In other words if I take the big spring and plunger out is there still a spring, springs that will lift the shell a short distance from the breach face?" In a word, no. With the ejector springs out, opening the barrel will cause the ejector to rise 1/10 of an inch, at the same time lifting the hull the same distance.

 

[GunDr]

There are two long, fairly heavy springs behind the ejector head. You can see the two plungers. The two long springs are the ones you will need to clip or grind a coil or two off at a time.

The other plunger and spring cannot be seen. This plunger keeps the ejector from leaving the bbl while it is off from the gun.

If this still all sounds to confusing, I'll bet there's gotta be at least one shooter at your club that knows how to pop out the ejector.

 

[phirel]

There is a totally different way to keep the gun from ejecting the shell that has not been mentioned above. Do nothing to the gun but learn to open the gun with your hand over the shell. Your hand will stop the gun from ejecting the shell.

Pat Ireland

 

[GunDr]

I agree with Pat. You're only dealing with one empty hull. And, the gun doesn't open as far as an O/U. It's manageable.

Doug

 

[gyrine]

Got it done. See new thread. TM 1 ejector to extractor SUCCESS! Thanks for all your help. gyrine