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Been thinking about reloading I shoot 1 OZ #7/12 & # 8 I only shoot from the 16 yard line singles .with ammo being harder to have ammo shipped to NJ maybe I will try it .I shoot Winchester Super Target & Top Gun & saved the Hulls, I need to use low recoil for medical reasons .Looked a the Lee Load All 2 but as Power & shot .If anyone where I can get the proper info on power & shot for velocity below 1200 the info would be great . thanks
 

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Reloading is a good way to solve an ammunition availability problem. Instead of the Lee Load All, look on eBay for a used MEC 600 Jr.. The Lee is the bottom of the barrel and the MEC is a considerable step up and a used one will not set you back any more than the Lee.

The hulls you have are mediocre for loading but between the Win and the Federals, I would go with the Federals as there is more data.

Look on the websites of Alliant, Hodgdon and Western Powders for their reloading data.

As recoil is an issue, keep the velocity of your reloads below 1200 fps. Also, you can further decrease recoil by going to 7/8 oz.
 

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You can Google that information..had a lee load all long time ago..worked but slow ..got rid of it & bought a Mac 600 jr..prob 30 yrs old works fine..powder .& other components can be bought from Gene Salomon in farmingdale nj..open wed..fri & sunday..google him for phone #
 

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Been thinking about reloading I shoot 1 OZ #7/12 & # 8 I only shoot from the 16 yard line singles .with ammo being harder to have ammo shipped to NJ maybe I will try it .I shoot Winchester Super Target & Top Gun & saved the Hulls, I need to use low recoil for medical reasons .Looked a the Lee Load All 2 but as Power & shot .If anyone where I can get the proper info on power & shot for velocity below 1200 the info would be great . thanks
“Low recoil” I assume you mean low “felt” recoil, because it is an unknown since different people have different pain thresholds and there is no one indicator what reload produces low recoil, some think lower pressure produces lower (felt) recoil but we are told that that is not possible.

Lower recoil is achieved by reducing one of the components that produces recoil which is the opposite and equal reaction to another action and includes mass and energy. Reducing a shot load from 1-1/8oz to 1oz is one way and 1 oz to 7/8 oz is another, so should be reducing the speed of the shot load. The only way to find a low recoil load is for you to experiment and find what works best for you. The gun you shoot is another factor you might have to consider making some changes to such adding more weight or the expense of a quality mechanical shock absorbing (recoil reducing) device.

The best source for reload material are the manuals on line put there by the powder manufacturers with the addition of the Lyman 5th Edition of shot shell reloading. No advice from any member here for their pet low recoil loads means it will work for you. You might look at commercial loads like Winchester’s “Low Recoil Low Noise Target Load.” This load is a 26 gram shot load propelled at a velocity of 980 feet per second, exit the muzzle.. A 2-3/4 dram equivalent, 1 oz shot load moves along at 1180 fps measured upon exit at the muzzle.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The 1oz. are fine with 1180 vol.what would be the best hulls to use I will switch from Winchester & top gun to what brand to stock up on hulls as I shoot
 

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Rich:

My advice would be to stock up on Remington hulls, such as the Gun Club, Clay and Field, STS or the gold Nitros . You will find more data for those hulls and they all load the same.
 

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Yes on what Nebs said. I've shot 3/4oz of years now. I have gone to 7/8 because a friend gave me about 500 Fed papers and I had a couple thousand wads meant for a straight wall hull . Claybuster wads includes loading data with each bag of wads. International shooters have to use 7/8 [ actually a hair under ] so they will break birds just fine, especially from the 16 yd. line. It's the easiest way to reduce recoil.
 

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Rich:

Before you start out foraging for components, study the reloading data. You're going to see lots and lots of loads that appear to fit your needs and you might say "WTF," how do I figure all this out. Lots of different powders, wads, primers, hulls, shot charge weights, powder charge weights, velocities, pressures; it's a jungle out there. We're all here to help you figure it out along the way. But I do recommend building a stockpile of empty Remington target hulls (the hulls from their hunting loads generally are different). We'll turn you into a hull-a-holic before you can say "Jack Robinson."
 

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It's an addiction. Fair warning.

Reloading does give you independence from uncertain supply of your favorite load, assuming that you have an adequate stock of components.
Premium hulls are the best way to go. Buy in bulk when the annual rebates are in effect, or beg from your friends.
Settle on a favourite wad and hull to make it simple.
A used MEC 600 is a cheap starter, and reliable. Ask around local clubs or post a want ad. You might find some bargain components with a used press.
 

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EVERYTHING above is excellent advise. DON"T go with thw Load All. As stated, look for a Mec and even better look for a USED MEC. They are out there and there is nothing on one that can't be replaced or fixed. DO start stockpiling hulls. Talk to some of your shooting friends and you will find that a few will keep hulls for your needs. Most will have never touched the ground. AND as stated above, reloading is habit forming. It's not a hobby it's a full fledge VICE!
When all else fails, move to Mississippi with us and we (and our State gov't is gun friendly) will take care of you----especially----if you like everything FRIED!!
My Best
Jim
p.s. Some of my best days have been spent with a black lab named Jocco, at my feet in the reloading room splitting a can of sardines and a cold beer. (limit ONE, the dog had a drinking problem)
 

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EVERYTHING above is excellent advise. DON"T go with thw Load All. As stated, look for a Mec and even better look for a USED MEC
In addition to what Jim said:

If you go with a MEC or another "quality" reloader you can always easily sell it later - can't say the same for Load All.
 

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Yes on what Nebs said. I've shot 3/4oz of years now. I have gone to 7/8 because a friend gave me about 500 Fed papers and I had a couple thousand wads meant for a straight wall hull . Claybuster wads includes loading data with each bag of wads. International shooters have to use 7/8 [ actually a hair under ] so they will break birds just fine, especially from the 16 yd. line. It's the easiest way to reduce recoil.
I agree with paul, 7/8oz. Very shooter friendly when shooting multiple rounds. I will on occasion inexplicably miss a target do to the bird finding the only possible hole in the pattern of this lighter load but have learned to live with it. Have fun.
 

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I keep this on my computer for just such occasions:

A word of caution.

If you are getting into reloading strictly to save money, don't. Buy factory ammo.

If you are going to get into it to make it a sub-hobby of your shooting or hunting hobby, then by all means.

If you don't enjoy it, it's not worth your time. Because you aren't likely to save enough money to make it worth the time you spend in front of the reloader.

Step one, before you even buy a press, is to go online and buy Lyman's Fifth Edition Shotshell Reloading Manual. Read it cover to cover, then re-read it.

I wouldn't use the data in the Lyman manual though, since it is a bit dated. Use the powder manufacturer's online data.

Then, pick a reloader. There are single stage and progressives. If you plan on reloading a few boxes of shells from time to time, a single stage press will be fine. If you plan to reload a LOT of shells, plan on getting into a progressive. There are a lot of brand choices, and prices, and others may chime in here with opinions and advice.

Then, pick what kind of hulls you want to reload. Remington seems to be the best choice these days (they are what I use) but there's absolutely nothing wrong with Winchester AA's and Federal Grand's.

I would steer away from other hulls and stick to these. Other hulls work fine, but there is less data available for them. They all work. It's just a matter of preference. Bottom line, stick to one style of shell and don’t waste your time with others, once you decide.

Like I said, I use Remington, but even then, I don’t mix and match when reloading, even though the load data is identical. If I’m reloading Gun Clubs, I’m reloading Gun Clubs; if I’m reloading STS’s, I’m reloading STS’s, if I’m reloading Nitro’s, I’m reloading Nitro’s, and so on.

I prefer Winchester primers, because they are reliable and cost effective, but the other brands are just as good. They all work. It's just a matter of preference.

Absolutely, positively, invest in a good scale, and use it. The electronic ones are nice, but the balance beam scales are just as accurate.

WEIGH your powder charges, especially when setting up a new load or starting with a new container of powder, and never believe the bushing charts. They are notoriously inaccurate.

I like Downrange wads because Kevin Lewis is a good guy and a friend, but the brand name wads are fine (a bit expensive) and Clay buster wads are fine too, though some people complain they leave more plastic residue on your choke tubes. They all work. It's just a matter of preference. Just make sure you use a wad made for a tapered hull if you use Remington or Winchester hulls, and a wad made for a straight-wall hull if you use any other brand of hull. This is covered in the Lyman manual.

I like Hodgdon Powders (and their other brands, IMR and Winchester) because Chris Hodgdon is a friend of mine, and their home offices are near my home. Supporting my local economy. But Alliant, and other brand powders work just fine. They all work. It's just a matter of preference.

Stick to the powder manufacturer’s published online loading data.

Good luck!
 

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If you want 1000 once fired Gun Clubs let me know. I’ll give them to you. I’m on the other side of the river. Some how get them to you. I wouldn’t reload that stuff you have. The Gun Clubs reload real well. You can buy a few flats of them plus these once fired and you’ll be on your way. Just let me know.

I like to reload them on occasion for shooting SC and wobble in place you can’t retrieve your hull when thrown from an auto. PM me if you need to.
 
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