I started off as a machinist for Harley Bair at Bair Machine. (yep - the blast from the past loader & wad manufacturer from here in Nebraska) Continued with school and worked for 8 years as a prototype machinist and tool maker. Have been a mechanical engineer for the last 25.
I agree with your quote from Holmes. ;-)
I don't relly know why I still have the MEC manual. Being an Engineer I am morally obligated to open the box of everything I buy, trash the manual then disassemble and reassemble the item BEFORE I use it. lol
I just could not resist the litle bit of ribbing. On a side note a when attaching that loader to piece of plywood get some lattice strips and glue and fasten with brads to make a curb for the eventual spill. I also have my plywood hanging over the front of the bench a little ways and drilled a hole in one corner that is plugged with a cork. This allows me to sweep the spillages to the hole and into a kitchen strainer sitting in a margerine bowl. The strainer will allow most powders to sift through and captures the powder. Bill
I like a 1 X 12 of #3 pine and screw the loader to the pine with drywall screws. This way if I want to put it away for a while to work with a different loader, I just pick it up and move it. If the press slides around to much, I use a C clamp on my wood. I currently have a vise attached with lag screws to a 2 X 8 and 3 C clamps make it sit real quiet. This way I can move to any one of my 3 benches (in my gun room) or whereever I want to be. I do like about a foot of wood in front of the loader to help with the leverage on the downstroke. The wood (screen molding) around the edge works great. For you craftsy kind of guys, router a groove around the edge of the wood and your spill barrier will almost be invisible. You can also use metal brackets if you want to slide out one press and replace with a different press. IMHO Omaha