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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the heater core in one of the companies' F250s. Guy driving it now complains heater doesn't get hot enough.

I just put thermometer in duct, it is reading 100 degrees. Outside air temp is low 20s. That is a swing of 80 degrees so to me it is working okay.

Anybody know what the temp coming out of duct/vent should be in a proper working auto heater?

I guess I could go out and drive another vehicle around the block a few times and check it, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to be on trapshooters.com during the middle of the day. LOL
 

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He needs to recirculate. The air coming across is probably from the outside/fresh and no wonder it doesn't warm up fast enough.


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I'm playing hookie too :)
 

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Molon Labe
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I think JZ has nailed it, at least that has been my problems, there is probably a damper that is stuck and sucking outside air across the coil

I had that problem on a few trucks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No, they are gas.

I just got making a run in the car down to Wendys to get something to eat. The temp coming out of that car vent was 138. That car's heater will run you out, it is exceptional good at what it does.

All I did was change the heater core. The temperature control cable had to be moved to change the core. I'm wondering if I moved that to where it isn't allowing it to run hot?

I figured the job went to easy. NLOL

Still if I was driving the truck it would be good enough for me, but of course you still need a good defroster.
 

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100 degrees is not hot enough. It mixes with the ambient air quickly upon exit and dissipates. Ambient air is chilled quickly by the windows and metal body, and at low outside temps it's heat sinking to the outside faster than the heater can keep up. Something is wrong. Check the cable for its setting, check to see if there is a valve for hot water flow, and check for a plugged or internally collapsed heater hose.

As for putting the controls on air recirculate, yes, that can be done. However, if you live in an area with higher humidity or have several people in the cab (expelling moisture from their lungs as they breathe), the windows will soon fog up.
 

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Could also be a thermostat. Even new ones have been known to be bad.
 

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Could also be an air pocket in the cooling system. Park it on a steep hill or area where the radiator is higher than the rest of the vehicle. Start it up and watch the temp gauge. After the temp is at normal operating temp, check the coolant level. Also you can go drive it until it reaches normal operating temp and the park it overnight. Check the level cold in the morning. If the level is low, you had an air pocket. I've had to jack up the front end and run the engine at 2000 - 2500 RPMs until it get the cooling system to burp. If problem still happens I would be looking at the T-stat... I'm assuming you have already checked your cable and door adjustments?? Good luck!!! Let us know what you found...
 

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I worked on many heater-a/c systems, but never took the time to check heater outlet air temp.

I always thought it should be hot enough to make your finger tips uncomfortable when held there for a short time.

Usually, temp was hotter on low blower because of less air flow cooling off heater core.


Good luck
 

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I paid a dealer to change a heater core in my van and they never could get good heat out of it again. My neighbor and I took it apart and ended up finding out that the cheap chinese aftermarket copy of the heater core was not built the same as the factory part. I got a factory Dodge part and found right away that it weighed about double and had twice the fins and passages. The factory one that came out of a sealed Chrysler Corp box worked great. The problem was that generic part.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the ideas guys. It is too cold to go out and work on the heater now and hopefully when it warms up I can put working on it off till next Fall. LOL

vmthtr in green bay. 155? You don't have an auto heater you have a fireplace! LOL

I got the heater core from AutoZone so it probably is Chinese junk. Cheap parts have did more to hurt the domestic auto industry than anything. 20 to 30 years you could mostly only get your Toyota and Honda worked on at the factory dealer. They replaced the defective part with a factory part. Back then anybody would work on a Ford, Chevy, Dodge, and they replaced the factory part with the cheapest parts at the parts store. Then the cheap part would need to be replaced every couple of years. People didn't blame the cheap part they blamed the car maker.
 

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when you run it with the top of the radiator up high make sure to remove the cap before starting that deal and make sure that the water is circulating with the cap off motordoc
 
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