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I guess you don't want to adjust your machine? I have been loading your exact same load with 17 gr's. of Clay's powder, and Claybuster AA 1100 wads for 15 years in STS hulls. Since Clay-dot powder, and Clays powder drop exactly the same. Though its hard to judge without a dime in the picture to know for sure. Contact Mec service center and they will walk you through the adjustments if you don't want to follow my advice. So in closing its not your stack height. Its your adjustments. You may also want to note: The deeper your crimps are, the shorter your hull life will be. Most loaders what to maximize hull life. Good Luck to you. break em all jeff
But the OP is not using a MEC.
 

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But the OP is not using a MEC.
OK I missed that part. So now, I suspect that his RCBC does not have a feature to adjust the final crimp then? He mentions the fact he can back off the pre-crimp? Seems to me if I can get a perfect load with the same loading data on a Mec. He should be able to get a perfect crimp with his loader? I fail to see how a change of wads is going to fix his problem??? break em all Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
OK I missed that part. So now, I suspect that his RCBC does not have a feature to adjust the final crimp then? He mentions the fact he can back off the pre-crimp? Seems to me if I can get a perfect load with the same loading data on a Mec. He should be able to get a perfect crimp with his loader? I fail to see how a change of wads is going to fix his problem??? break em all Jeff
Jeff - the Grand doesn’t have a measurement scale on the wad, but can be adjusted. As can the pre-crimp or the crimp. The pictures might be a little deceiving I guess. The depth of the crimp on the outside of the hull is ok in my view and approximately a dime thickness - they are a tad concave. The TGT12 wad is a few thousands taller than the CB 1100 I am using in 1 oz loading. I think like others, that a slightly taller wad might push that up in the center. If not, will try to either back off my final crimp a bit or the wad insertion station. As always, I appreciate TS.com advice and will try many options. These are shootable shells for practice, singles and doubles first shot in any event. Just wanted to find advice to improve. thanks
 

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the Grand doesn’t have a measurement scale on the wad, but can be adjusted. As can the pre-crimp or the crimp.
Thanks for filling me in. I have not loaded on the RCBS Grand loader. So I am not familiar with how they adjust. I do know I get perfect crimps on my Mec loaders with the 1100 wad though. In both a 600 jr. and a 9000 as well. Good Luck to Ya. break em all Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Based on everyone's comments, I went to my RCBS Grand and let off a tad on my pre-crimp and final crimp station.

Some replies said a dime thickness is the close depth of a crimp to be close to what a factory load measures. Since I didn't have a device to measure, I looked at a dime and it was too big to fit in the hull, so I carefully ground it down to fit the hull.

In Pic #1 you will see a factory STS Light on the left and my new reload on the right.
In Pic #2 you will see my cut down dime set in the STS hull for reference.
In Pic #3 you will see my cut down dime set in my new reload for reference.
In Pic #4, you will see my cut down dime set in my new reload...you can just see a bit of the dime on the left of my hull.

So, based on everything I received on this post, I think I'm ready to call my reloads shootable.

Green Light Body jewelry Automotive tire Rim
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Those look great!

An easy way to check the crimp depth is place a dime on top of the crimp. The depth should be about the thickness of the dime.
Interesting Pat. Glad you shared this idea with us I am a better reloader today with this info. best, J
 

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Wow, I thought I was anal when it came to reloading. You sir have me beat!!! I have never seen anyone grind down a dime to check the depth of a crimps! I just eyeball the thickness myself. I must say backing off your crimps did the trick. Your loads look factory fresh to me. Enjoy them.

Hey, You don't have any really old primers your worried about disposing of do you??? Mmm break em all Jeff
 

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They all look great to me!! I am loading 1oz, 17.4 of Promo with CB1100 wad using GC & STS hulls and mine look about the same as yours. Nice job striving for perfection!!
 

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Another wad to try is the Green Duster by Down Range. Per Kevin at Down Range, The base is slightly larger and wedges into the base of the hull faster. End result is the wad sits higher in the hull and helps reduce or eliminate the dishing.
My own experience with 700X powder and TGT12-OEM wads, CB clone, CB1100 wads and the Green Duster is the Duster gives the best crimp. The final crimp crushes the Duster wad just enough to give a great crimp.

Your shells look great.

Be safe, shoot well
 

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I think your shells look great. I would do a lot of adjusting on my loader before I would pay the difference in TGT wads as compared to claybuster or greendusters. I use to be a huge Remington fan, but they don't seem to give a rip about reloaders anymore.
 

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I think your shells look great. I would do a lot of adjusting on my loader before I would pay the difference in TGT wads as compared to claybuster or greendusters. I use to be a huge Remington fan, but they don't seem to give a rip about reloaders anymore.
Just buy the Downrange or Claybuster copy.
 

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recrowl, that is exactly what I do. Still have Remington guns and hopefully enough hulls to last but I'm done with their ridiculous primer, wad, and shot prices.
 
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