Trapshooters Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I do 15 to 20 stocks a year for the last 25 years so here is my method. First strip all the old finish off using a stripper agent, checkering and all. Mask off any plastic that you can't remove. Sanding is very important at this point, if dings or scratches are present sand them with the grain, carefully! I use 220 down to 400 wet or dry to remove all scratches. If it is a Franchi it is european walnut and usually hard enough you don't have to raise the grain with water and heat. Next decide on stain or not, that's up to you. If you do use good stain that penetrates and seals. Let dry for at least a day. I then mix tung oil and mineral spirits about 70/30 tung oil. Soak the wood and wipe off at least 2 times in a day. This will further seal the wood. I then start with Tru-Oil, follow directions(hint:use sparingly). Add till you're happy then let dry for 72 hrs. For gloss rub it down lightly with compound for satin use more compound. Work till you're happy. Let me know if you get into a snag. ftlupton
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To get the red stain it is best to order it from Brownell's. They have it. If not mix dark walnut with red mahogany about 50/50, mix a little and check if you need more red add more etc. Staining can drive you nuts, have patience and use scrap wood to check then let it dry for a full day.
ftlupton
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have used wipe on poly for furniture, too think for stocks. Secret to a good finish on oil type stock is put it on thin, use more coats. You want the finish in the wood not on the wood.
ftlupton
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
bruce em, I think I said 70/30 for tung oil and mineral spirits and 50/50 for the stain. Sorry if I confused you. All of these are starting points only anyway because each piece of walnut is very different in grain. American walnut and European walnut are 2 different animals and have to be treated as such. The one thing I differ with a lot of guys on is filler, I don't ever use filler. On trap guns that are handled so much in hot weather I have seen many fillers back out of the finish. I fill with finish, takes a lot longer and you have to really let it dry but it works. As far a burnishing the wood with 400 to get scratches, i agree if you sand hard it will, I don't I sand very very lightly and take more time to get scratches out. Pat is right, you have to tread very lightly. Hope all this helps, it is a great feeling to get it just right and it looks like a pro did it. Best to all.
ftlupton
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pat, I sand every other coat of Tru-Oil very lightly with 600 wet then add very thin coats until it looks like glass. Is this about how you do it? I'm doing an MX 2000 stock now and after 5 coats it is looking super, good hard European walnut. Oh, I also use Brownell's rubbing compound on the final coat to get a softer not quite satin finish. I do not like the platic look and won't do one that way. Getting old and fussy I guess.
ftlupton
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
We have learned the old fashioned way by trying many different methods and I hope it will save some younger ones some time. I also hope they get the hours and hours of enjoyment I have had over the years. Salute to you.
ftlupton
dick ogle
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top