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I would like to refinish the stock and forearm on my Winchester Super X1. I would really appreciate any help or suggestions that anyone might have. I'm particularly
concerned with how to handle the checkering. Not sure which products to use either. I would also like to shave the monte carlo stock a bit. Have any of you done this? Any pictures? Thanks much. Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
TRW369
Thanks for your help. I realize I did not make myself clear. I am trying to do
the refinishing myself. I am looking for someone who might have some advice and has refinished their own stock with good results.
I will however consider having it done professionally if it seems to difficult a task.
Thanks again,
Dan
 

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This takes some time and effort but the results are great. Tape off your checkering. Prepare your wood, finish with 600 paper. Get a rattle can of urethane paint, spray a light to medium coat, wait 15-20 min. recoat until you have 6 total coats. Let cure 2 days, more if damp conditions. Wet sand with 600 paper. When dry do the 6 coat procedure again. Let cure 3-4 days. Wet sand with 2000 paper. Hand rub with a liquid plastic polish. Beautiful high gloss finish.

If you don't want high gloss, eliminate the hand rub and spray a light coat of semi gloss after the 1000 wet sand.
 

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Check out this link. It's a good starting point.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=136366

It make me want to refinish my SX1.
 

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If you use a Urethane spray be sure to use a proper chemical filtering mask. Inhaling urethane spray is dangerous! I use gloss spar varnish to finish my stocks. Use a good brush or very fine sponge brush and sand (300 grit) as specified on the can. Repeat coats until the wood is filled. Add coats until the stock after sanding looks like frosted glass. Will take 10-12 coats. Add another coat and hope for no drips. If you get brush marks and drips, sand again but this time with 600 wet paper. When you get a fairly good coat, lightly sand with wet 2500-2700 grit to get rid of dust roughness etc to make dead smooth then buff with the cream they use to remove marks from car paint. I use a 3M Rubbing Compound "for fine scratches, medium oxidation and water spots". It takes 10 days or so to finish. The result is a semi gloss luster.

Good luck

Ron
 

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While picking up brushes for a failed attempt at refinishing a stock, I saw something interesting. It was a gloss urethane spar varnish in a spray can. Would this work better? Has anybody tried it yet?

I managed to make a thorough mess of drip marks and trapped air bubbles on my present project, so I am enlisting help (advice here and in-person help for the application of the finish) for the second attempt at rehabbing this gun.
 

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I've heard of people using the spray on finish but it's not that popular.

Lately I've been hearing about Daly's Benmatte; it comes from a paint store in Oregon called Daly's (go figure). Other popular ones are Pro-Custom and Permalyn available from Brownell's. I've been researching for my first attempt at refinishing a SX1 stock and these seem to be the safe bets for finishes.
 

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I was just at a gentleman's house that does nothing but shotgun stocks and forearms. He told me that he uses a top of the line automotive clear coat that has a good uv protection. He told me that a quart of this clear coat costs between $140.00 to $175.00..He sprays the stocks and finishes off with 2000 grit. He also told me that you don't need a top of the line paint spray gun, but you do need to have a compressor that can maintain an even pressure. (Not hard to find)
 

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If you're having trouble with spar varnish, it's usually one of two things...the brush or dust. Invest in a good china bristle brush and use a tack cloth and apply thin coats of spar varnish in an environment where walking around doesn't kick up any dust and you'll avoid most problems.

Spar varnish is excellent stuff, it just requires care and proper application.

Regards,

Chip
 

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I have finished several stocks to with very good results. I have used urethane, hand rubbed tung oil, and my last one I used a high grade of automotive clear with hardener. In all of the above I wet sand starting with 1000 and finish of with 1500 to 2000 grit. I then buff just like I would with an automotive paint job. The only difference is I use a large Eastwood Bench Grinder to buff instead of a hand buffer. The results are amazing. I was the most satisfied with the auto clear. It just feels so good in the hand and when you pull it up to your face. I love to do this type of work. The results are so satisfying. Please understand that it is not a job for everyone. It's not an afternoon job. The photo is the auto clear on a custom Mauser.
normanboy_2012_2909.jpg

 
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