Good idea to have a close look at the machine while doing the periodic cleaning and lubrication. Checking fasteners to insure they are snug is a good thing to add to the checklist.
Spolar Muses
Although I am retired I still work part time at the local ski hill near me in the winter. Part time turned into nearly full time as the shortage of help is prevalent there as well. The money was good but I didn't get much of a chance to shoot on account of always working. Ski season has been over and I have been shooting the last couple weeks so I had some reloading to do. Started cranking out some twelve gauge shells I use for skeet and stopped to take a look at the finished product and notices the bases were somewhat concave. Some to a point where I am not sure the firing pin will light the fire. So I ask myself "what the heck is going on here?" The hulls were fine after resizing but when I seated the primer they were concaved at that point. After pulling the sizing bushings out to get a better look at things it sure looked like the primer shaft was way to high to a point where it might be bottoming out on the hull and then some. After looking at things for a little bit I noticed the primer shaft weight had worked its way nearly to the base of the machine. With it down so far it allowed the shaft to extend up to high and really push those primers in hard. The set screw that holds that weight in place had somehow worked its way loose and the weight slowly unscrewed. I am sure this has been going on slowly over time but it had finally become noticeable. Got it back to where it fully seats the primers without causing the base of the shells to deform. I might add here that I use hydraulics to run the loader and it had not problem messing the hulls up.
I guess it is just good maintenance to keep on eye on all the nuts and bolts on any kind of a reloader you may be operating. The Spolar was back to putting out some beautiful ammo after I spotted the problem. Great machine.
I guess it is just good maintenance to keep on eye on all the nuts and bolts on any kind of a reloader you may be operating. The Spolar was back to putting out some beautiful ammo after I spotted the problem. Great machine.
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I unhooked hydraulic on my Spolar some time ago. I noticed the exact same thing happening on reloads(concave) indentations. I ruined a box of Federal Papers before I noticed weight had loosened and was causing problem.Although I am retired I still work part time at the local ski hill near me in the winter. Part time turned into nearly full time as the shortage of help is prevalent there as well. The money was good but I didn't get much of a chance to shoot on account of always working. Ski season has been over and I have been shooting the last couple weeks so I had some reloading to do. Started cranking out some twelve gauge shells I use for skeet and stopped to take a look at the finished product and notices the bases were somewhat concave. Some to a point where I am not sure the firing pin will light the fire. So I ask myself "what the heck is going on here?" The hulls were fine after resizing but when I seated the primer they were concaved at that point. After pulling the sizing bushings out to get a better look at things it sure looked like the primer shaft was way to high to a point where it might be bottoming out on the hull and then some. After looking at things for a little bit I noticed the primer shaft weight had worked its way nearly to the base of the machine. With it down so far it allowed the shaft to extend up to high and really push those primers in hard. The set screw that holds that weight in place had somehow worked its way loose and the weight slowly unscrewed. I am sure this has been going on slowly over time but it had finally become noticeable. Got it back to where it fully seats the primers without causing the base of the shells to deform. I might add here that I use hydraulics to run the loader and it had not problem messing the hulls up.
I guess it is just good maintenance to keep on eye on all the nuts and bolts on any kind of a reloader you may be operating. The Spolar was back to putting out some beautiful ammo after I spotted the problem. Great machine.
Yepp,you can also reverse the primer shaft weight,I too have had the set screw loosen up,so I then went to Ace hardware and bought a 3/4 " cap head screw and replaced the set screw.I spin down the weight and watch to see that the bottomI unhooked hydraulic on my Spolar some time ago. I noticed the exact same thing happening on reloads(concave) indentations. I ruined a box of Federal Papers before I noticed weight had loosened and was causing problem.
set screw on the primer shaft weight,is about 3/16" showing as it hits the bottoming out plate,on the loader,this way you know that everything is ready to go.
Any idea on where it seems to be leaking from? I am guessing between the bottle and bar. I don't have near that amount when using H110 for the .410. The washer seal okay between the powder bottle holder and the bar okay?The title of thread seems general enough that it would be difficult to accuse one of thread drift. So, what do you recommend I do to stop this (Ramshot Competition powder):
View attachment 1798669
It seems to be coming off the top of charge bar. I replaced the seal today with no improvement.
Lube the o-ring with dry lube. You can also try tightening the plate that holds the powder reservoir.It seems to be coming off the top of charge bar. I replaced the seal today with no improvement.
Watch to see if it is drifting out of the powder drop tube. With finer powders, I pause on the upstroke, before the hull pulls off the drop tube.
It seems to be coming off the top of charge bar. I replaced the seal today with no improvement.
Any nicks in the top of the bar that could let some powder escape? Bushings sitting nice and flat with the top of the bar so as not to distort it? I like machine's idea of trying to tighten the plate up a little.
Some of it could be drifting out of the powder drop tube. I was thinking if that tube was a half-inch shorter that wouldn't happen. And, I'll make sure screws holding the top bar down are gut'n tight. I'll check the dry lube on the o-ring. Thanks for the benefit of your experience.Lube the o-ring with dry lube. You can also try tightening the plate that holds the powder reservoir.
Watch to see if it is drifting out of the powder drop tube. With finer powders, I pause on the upstroke, before the hull pulls off the drop tube.
I have the same problem with Titewad. Stuff goes everywhere. As you noted the powder falls when the drop-tube is coming out of the hull and static pulls the powder every where. (So it would need to be a half-inch longer rather than shorter.) I measured the tube and if I simply lengthened it it would hit the bottom of the hull on the down stroke. I also thought about buying a second tube and then maching the tapered tip off the old one and machining the new one to fit over a reduced section of the old tube. That way they would a sliding fit so the bottom of the sliding tube would come down by gravity on the upstroke and collapse when it hit the bottom of the case on the down stroke. Would also need something to keep the bottom section from falling off.Some of it could be drifting out of the powder drop tube. I was thinking if that tube was a half-inch shorter that wouldn't happen. And, I'll make sure screws holding the top bar down are gut'n tight. I'll check the dry lube on the o-ring. Thanks for the benefit of your experience.
It could be that the powder detent adjustments need to be tweaked a bit,if they are out of adjustments,the powder tube
can move and partially,shut off the drop of the powder,this usually happens when you don't notice it?It i
leakage.If the detent's get loose enough,it can partially,shut off the powder drop.With some fine grain powders,you will
never eliminate,some dropage,but of course,yours is too much.I would also check the powder bottle washer,for it's wear
and condition?
can move and partially,shut off the drop of the powder,this usually happens when you don't notice it?It i
You need to check the detent adjustment's for the powder drop tube,if they come loose,you will get movement out of the powder drop tube and you won't notice it.On some fine grain powder's,you will probably,never eliminate,some powder,I have the same problem with Titewad. Stuff goes everywhere. As you noted the powder falls when the drop-tube is coming out of the hull and static pulls the powder every where. (So it would need to be a half-inch longer rather than shorter.) I measured the tube and if I simply lengthened it it would hit the bottom of the hull on the down stroke. I also thought about buying a second tube and then maching the tapered tip off the old one and machining the new one to fit over a reduced section of the old tube. That way they would a sliding fit so the bottom of the sliding tube would come down by gravity on the upstroke and collapse when it hit the bottom of the case on the down stroke. Would also need something to keep the bottom section from falling off.
leakage.If the detent's get loose enough,it can partially,shut off the powder drop.With some fine grain powders,you will
never eliminate,some dropage,but of course,yours is too much.I would also check the powder bottle washer,for it's wear
and condition?
My thought on the powder drop tube length issue is that shortening it a bit would have the same effect as the pause on the upstroke suggested by machine121, above. It would allow all the powder to fall into the bottom of the hull on the downstroke and prevent it from backing up in the drop tube and flinging out on the upstroke.
I have used Nitro 100 New Formula for a while and I get a little "seepage" from off the front of the charge bar due to the crushed powder being so fine (like sand) but I have never dealt with anything like what you have in this photo. A call to Spolar would be in order to get their take on it....The title of thread seems general enough that it would be difficult to accuse one of thread drift. So, what do you recommend I do to stop this (Ramshot Competition powder):
View attachment 1798669
@Nebs I switched to the delrin charge bar made by Jim Skeel. It has helped mitigate the mess made by Titegroup. It could also simplly be that when I changed out the charge bar I also changed out the powder hopper rubber seal and lubed it with the Spolar dry mica lube. Maybe that's all that was needed, not sure. I do know that the new charge bar is butter smooth in the press. Some powders are really prone to static cling. I wonder if Competition is as well? I also use his Pyrex powder hopper and I think that has helped with the static issue.
My Pyrex powder reservoir does seem to be less affected by static charge. The real (and only) cure for static charge problems is higher relative humidity (RH). I machine a lot of Delrin in my shop. If the RH is down below 30% the chips cling to the to the shop wall behind the mill. If I raise the RH above 40% the chips fall to the floor.
Well, I did some work on tightening the powder/shot reservoir detents and learned a few things. First, it's possible to overtighten them and that puts friction on the charge bar which leads to other problems. And, I think it might be the cause of those scrapes on that charge bar someone posted pix of recently in another thread. I guess the good news is I'm almost out of Competition. Great powder; if I get any more, I'll just have to live with the leakage.
I have noticed the same thing with 700X but not as bad as the picture. I am using old red Winchester AA's and there seems to be a little static electricity with these hulls (my guess) but not sure. I tried a few hundred STS/Nitros and they seemed to be better.
It has to somehow be sneaking out between the washer and the bar. I know your washer is good and you have tried tightened the detent until it doesn't slide easily. Might be good question for Cole at Spolar. He is the only guy there that will be able to help you.
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