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Spolar Gold - tricks?

3623 Views 33 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Sims58
after reading much here and other places moving from Mecs to the SG.

i have the bottles from Mr Skeel that are very nice.

Any other things I should have on hand as spares as I learn it, or tricks?

I have watched the videos, seems l8ke a Cadillac setup. Just wanted to ask. Thank you.
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If you don't already have it, order the spare parts kit; comes with the commonly needed parts & lubes. The manual is easier for quick reference, instead of fast forwarding or reversing to find a topic. They made a change in their recommendation for dry lube on the charge bar - the video shows it applied to the entire bar, now they say just by the powder bushing. Too much dry lube was causing the bar to jam.
 

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I am new to the Spolar too. Go slow and watch what happens as you pull the handle up and down. Make sure you cycle it fully in both directions so you don't double charge something. I have hydros on mine but loaded a good bunch by hand before trying the hydros. Things move fast with the hydros. Watch the primer that it isn't tipped just before it is going to be seated. They have a new primer cup that supposed to take care of that which I have on order.

They are certainly well built. I have yet to determine if I am going to keep this one or stay with my Mec 9000 machines running with an automate. Need to load a few thousand rounds with this one before I sell something that works for me very well.
 

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I used my mec9000 for 2 years and became quite the "reloadersmith" tinkering with all of it's issues. It seemed to always work itself out of adjustment and then I would have to monkey with something to get it to work. I've loaded a few thousand rounds now on my spolar and it seems to be working quite well. I've replaced a bunch of parts including the entire priming assembly (updated new one), got the new 410 wad block and also the pyrex bottles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, I run dillon metallic and they can get out of whack too, nothing systemic just a lot of moving parts. I like the Spolar from what I have seen.

I am told the hydraulic unit is going to increase in price, ezz555 what thoughts do you have on that unit?

trying to figure out other than just money if I should splurge on hydraulics?
 

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You might want to think of the PW Auto-drive. I had the hydro and didn't care for it. The auto-drive is great.
I also have the Autodrive.
Mark me down also for the PW auto drive. Love it.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Here's a video an old friend of mine, Chic Worthing, made showing how the PW Autodrive runs. You can run it non-stop if you can keep up with it. I once ran about 78 20-ga before I had to lift my foot off the pedal.


 

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Great video JH. Once I figured out when to look where it became much easier. Knowing when to look for the primer on the Spolar was the hardest thing for me to train myself to do and the one thing that derailed my efforts most often. Just about in the trained habit now with it. I need it to get a little nicer out and the club open more days so I can unload a few more shells and keep in the rhythm. No different than when I learned with the Mec's and the automate. Got to keep your eyes moving.
 

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I am new to the Spolar too. Go slow and watch what happens as you pull the handle up and down. Make sure you cycle it fully in both directions so you don't double charge something. I have hydros on mine but loaded a good bunch by hand before trying the hydros. Things move fast with the hydros. Watch the primer that it isn't tipped just before it is going to be seated. They have a new primer cup that supposed to take care of that which I have on order.

They are certainly well built. I have yet to determine if I am going to keep this one or stay with my Mec 9000 machines running with an automate. Need to load a few thousand rounds with this one before I sell something that works for me very well.
The tipped primer problem still exists with the new primer cup, once every 300+ cycles.
My routine is to observe the old primer drop, then look at the fresh primer as the cup is clear of the surrounding metal. If the primer is tipped, stop the handle movement and fix the primer orientation. Then continue the handle movement to seat the primer.
 

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The tipped primer problem still exists with the new primer cup, once every 300+ cycles.
I really don't get a tipped primer that often, but what does happen sometimes....is the primer slide fails to pick up a new primer, and more often then not, when this happens, the spent primer falls straight down and lands in the primer cup, and gets pushed in to the next hull!

When that happens, if I don't notice it right away, I don't even stop, not worth the hassle. I just keep loading, knowing I will find a shell with a bad primer. And at that point, I'll take care of it by disassembling, or give it to someone who wants it more than I do!!
 

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I prefer the hydraulic over the PW auto drive. With the hydraulic there is a definite stop at both top and bottom of the cycle.
With the automate there is a definite stop at the bottom. And at the top. As long as both buttons are depressed it cycles only as far as the bottom and stops. Remove your thumbs from the buttons it cycles only as far as the top.

Somebody’s been blowing smoke up your behind.
 

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With the automate there is a definite stop at the bottom. And at the top. As long as both buttons are depressed it cycles only as far as the bottom and stops. Remove your thumbs from the buttons it cycles only as far as the top.

Somebody’s been blowing smoke up your behind.
we’re talking about the PW auto drive for Spolar, not Automate for MEC.
 
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