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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everything passed through 1/4" steel at 200 yards; .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .270 Win, 7mm mag and 30-06. The .40 S&W at close range is the only caliber that did not. While the 6.5 for unknown reasons had the most violent hits on the free hanging targets, the last picture is an impressive specimen of a Barnes TTSX shot from the .270 and recovered a few inches in the dirt. .40 casing for size reference.
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Am curious why the club would allow steel targets not designed for high velocity rifle rounds to be destroyed? Or, perhaps you own the steel?
 

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I take care of the steel at a club. I have a couple of dozen plates hanging. 3/8" AR500 will stop nearly anything below a 50BMG or AP rounds with no damage other than maybe a pock mark.

Thicker mild steel will still crater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I take care of the steel at a club. I have a couple of dozen plates hanging. 3/8" AR500 will stop nearly anything below a 50BMG or AP rounds with no damage other than maybe a pock mark.

Thicker mild steel will still crater.
Assuming AR500 is a kind of steel? I will look into that
 

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That 1/4" steel is what we call "Soft Steel".

It only takes 1/8" of "dual hardened" armor steel to stop all the bullets you fired. If you're willing to pay for it.
 

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Don’t shoot a 3” diameter 3/8” thick AR500 plate from a little less than 80 yards with a .308. It will be orbiting the earth. So I’ve been told.
 

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Couple of other points. Make sure the targets are free swinging so they will move when hit and dissipate the energy from the bullet, allowing it to fall to the ground quickly instead of ricocheting off. If you must shoot stationary steel, make sure the top of the target is angled towards the shooter so the bullet will be directed into the ground at the base of the target. Don't ask how i know this. Secondly, if shooting steel with handguns, stand at least 10 yards away, better to be 15-20. The bullets splatter and bits of lead and copper can come back towards the shooter. I'm sure you know this, but us old guys like to act like we know stuff once in a while. AR500 is the way to go.
 

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Oh moses , that's some serius shooting . We shoot some Bowling pins aroud here with handguns and that is about all
 

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AR500 is a type of steel. The manufacturer where I bought our targets suggests 1/4" for 22LR, 3/8" for pistol calibers, and 1/2" for rifle calibers.

Regarding stationary steel: only dead soft lubed lead bullets like cowboy action shooters use flatten and fall to the ground, and then only if there is some give to the plate. With any other bullet, including hard lead bullets, the bullet disintegrates and the debris is scattered in a circle in the plane of the target. If you go up and look at the ground under the target after a match you see a trench about 6" wide where the fragments hit. You DO NOT want the target angled downward, except for the very small amount SCSA Steel Challenge target mounts allow. If you do, the lead fragments will be lofted in the air toward the shooter and will rain down on him/her. You also do not want to angle the targets so they are square to the shooter. You want all of them parallel to the firing line.
 

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You don’t want to shoot any ar plate with the one on the left, it’s a SLAP round and will drill 2 ar 1/2” plates at over 1/2 mile away. On the right is a Raufos mk211 round a 6” concrete wall doesn’t stop it.
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We call that sabot accelerator, it'll lost accuracy in distance but it'll penetrate certified armor to the original caliber that case was made for.
 
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