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Discussion Starter #1
How do you guys that have been making shot for years, manage to get the dimples out of the shot? Everything I've tried results in dimples. Do they even make any difference, for those of you that have patterned you shot?
 

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Dimples seem to form when the coolant is too cool and/or the shot is too hot. With a little experience, the sound the shot makes when it hits the coolant will tell you if the temperature is correct.

Pat Ireland
 

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Pat, I don't think that's the issue. I've run from cold to hot and everywhere in-be-tween. Same result. The sound is like bee's at any temperature. They look good, and sound good during the process. I just end up with little dimples on all of them. I'm using anti-freeze and dish soap, no water at all.
 

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I get good results by keeping the drop under 1/4 inch the closer to the lip the rounder the shot,I use antifreeze undiluted-Mike Moloney
 

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shot410ga- If the problem is not temperature, my next best guess would be the suggestion by Mike. Do you get one dimple per shot or does each shot have several dimples?

Pat Ireland
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pat, one small dimple per pellet. I'm dropping shot at >3/8 inch or less. Total drop to the bottom of the custom made wire container is 15." into a 20mm shell container overflowing into a large plastic tub. Like I said 95% of the pellets are round, they just have a dimple. Perhaps, the dimple makes no difference, as suggested.
 

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It appears to me that the part of the shot that hits the coolant first is hardening while the rest of the shot is still a liquid. When I made shot, I had the coolant level less than 1/8 inch from the coolant. I suggest you play around with the shot fall distance. Also, I remember that I had let the coolant warm up a little before it made good shot. If it was tool cool, I got a flat spot on the shot and when it got too warm, shot started clumping as it fell into the liquid.

Pat Ireland
 

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As long as we are on this subject because I just learned about this and started doing some research on shot making, what are the best and easiest to use machines for the money? Thanks in advance for your opinion.
 

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First and most important (IN MY OPINION) Is distance between the lip and top level of coolant. I dont know what you use as coolant but I have used straight brake fluid since I have started (6 Yrs. now) I have never had dimples, I have never completely changed the fluid, I just add if its low. I dont know how deep your fluid is but mine is about 10 inches. The next critical thing is temperature.. If my temp gets over 110 I have to quit or my lead will clomp up because my depth isnt enough to cool my beeds. Its definitely a learning curve.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll close the gap(lip to coolant) to less than a 1/4" and try that. Anti-freeze with dish soap is so easy to clean off, I don't want to change the coolant.
 

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My results and Experiences: I'm running a Single Better Shotmaker with #9 double drippers with a shot/coolant separator. I'm also using antifreeze for coolant.

First and foremost - the hotter it gets (within reason) the shot gets better looking! I'm talking about temps at 120 degrees! I was going to invest in a radiator to help cool things down but my rig seems to top out at that temp and I can run it for hours not getting any hotter. What I really was thinking of doing was installing an immersion heater to get the temp up!

Second - Shot drop distance. I had a clog in my system and the coolant started to overflow and to get it under control till the pot cooled off enough to stop dropping shot I had to keep turning the coolant pump off and on to keep the level within reason. I figured I may as well experiment, what I found was that it didn't make any difference if the shot fell 1/4" or up to 4"!!!!!!!! Again, this is my experience and your's may be different. I collected the shot at the different heights and the differences were almost non existent.

Like I said, this is my experience after building my system and putting it in production.

Tom
 
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