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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a Citori with release triggers. I had a bird break and reset the safety while I was holding the trigger. Now the trigger won't release. I removed the stock, but I can't see anything obviously wrong. I've tried opening/closing the action multiple times and switching the barrel selector.

Any thoughts, did I bend something?

Thanks,
Milan
 

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Who made the Release trigger? Years ago I had a Citori with Release triggers and the release hook was mounted on a small block attached to the assembly by a single set screw. I found out that over time the action of opening the gun to cock the hammers would cause the block to rotate on the set screw just enough to prevent the hook from catching. Using locktite on the block and set screw was a short lived temporary fix but I never did find a permanent cure and had to convert the gun back to Pull triggers by removing the release hooks and mounting blocks.
 

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Why did you put on the safety after the trigger had been set? The purpose of the safety is to prevent you from pulling the trigger.Could that have broken something? Did you not know to open the gun to unset the trigger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why did you put on the safety after the trigger had been set? The purpose of the safety is to prevent you from pulling the trigger.Could that have broken something? Did you not know to open the gun to unset the trigger?
Had I know to just open the gun, don't you think I would have done that? I had a 50/50 chance of one or the other and using the safety from a muzzle control standpoint is the safest.
 

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MAH. No, standard safety protocol is hang on to the trigger, dismount, and with your forend hand/thumb break the gun open.

Safeties are for pull triggers. Open gun is for release triggers.
 

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Milan. Many of us Release shooters have had unintentional missfires/let goes. Not a sin, just keep the gun downrange and over the traphouse as you regroup.
 

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Some triggers you do put the safety on to get out of the gun also don't dismount the gun to get out of it. If it is still mounted then I and others know it is still pointed down range. One thing new release shooters don't practice enough is getting out of a set trigger situation.

On a break open gun you have two hands use the off hand to push your lever over to open your gun. Auto's and pumps and trigger guard openers get a little trickier and do need practice.

Have fun shoot often.

Don
 

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Guys, when you get a release trigger, you need to FIRST 1) know how it works and 2) practice at home before you go to the range with a live gun.

Just common sense.
 

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Absolutely, practice with your gun-If you have a bottom break gun--practice opening the gun with your off hand

Phil Berkowitz
 

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Nobody reads the posts. People just plug in the topic into their pre-stored responses. The OP got on my case because I questioned if he knew how to unset a release trigger. He conceded that he didn't at the time, but obviously he does now. All he's looking for is an answer to how to fix his gun
 

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Just a thought, but have you tried to move the safety back and forth with the trigger firmly set? I think I would try that first, making sure you leave the safety OFF when you release the trigger... Another thing to try is pulling the hammer back that is cocked and then try to release the hook with a small screwdriver, prying very gently on the hook doing it with the safety off... If this doesn't work, it is more than likely hanging up on the sear and won't let it release. If that's the case.......off to Phillips.
 

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I would bet that if you talked to Phillip, he would have the exact cause by the end of his first sentence, and the fix by the end of the second sentence.
 

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MAH2, can you get a picture posted of the inside with stock removed showing trigger? There are some pretty smart, well versed, shooters on this site that might pick up on something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got it to work under/over. Over/under hangs up after the top barrel. The selector block is not rebounding back after the first shot.
 

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Since I can't see inside the gun's action, I don't know what to recommend for a fix. However, my comment would be that there is NO safety that is worth depending on when shooting clay targets.

The gun should be considered to be in one of two conditions when on the firing line. If the action is closed, then it is considered LOADED. If the action is open, then it is considered SAFE. No one should even think about a "safety" on a gun while on the firing line because there is no such thing.

Your first mistake was taking a gun to the range to shoot that you didn't know how to operate! Sorry if that sounds harsh, but don't endanger other shooters due to your lack of knowledge of how to operate the gun.

Easystreet
 

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I got it to work under/over. Over/under hangs up after the top barrel. The selector block is not rebounding back after the first shot.
OK. You apparently got it fixed. Now, when you say the block isn't rebounding back after the first shot from the top barrel, it's probably rebounding, just not enough. That's a common problem with that gun when shooting the top barrel first . Make sure everything is clean and lightly oiled. You may need a lighter spring, but I suggest you shoot it for a while and see if it corrects itself. An O/U is generally shot bottom barrel first.
 

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OK. You apparently got it fixed. Now, when you say the block isn't rebounding back after the first shot from the top barrel, it's probably rebounding, just not enough. That's a common problem with that gun when shooting the top barrel first . Make sure everything is clean and lightly oiled. You may need a lighter spring, but I suggest you shoot it for a while and see if it corrects itself. An O/U is generally shot bottom barrel first.
Any O/U that won't shoot in either order is not worth the time it takes to get it out of the case. The "rebound" mechanism is identical in either order, however, the height of the sears and shelves on the block are adjusted individually. If it was working before you had the safety issue, it's likely that something is bent although I'm not picturing what/how you would have done that to cause it to not engage the 2nd sear. If it were mine, I'd ignore any lecturing on my previous actions, take the stock off, insert some snap caps, and test like this:

- With the gun fully open, the block is pushed back, the hammers are both rotated fully rearward allowing both sears to engage with the hammer notches and the block prevented from contacting the rear of the sears.

- As the gun is closed, the cocking lever returns to firing position, the hammers both rest supported by the sears and the block moves forward engaging one of the sears with the forward, center "shelf". Neither side shelf is close to a sear because the block's forward travel is limited by it's contact with the rear of the sear which is selected.

- When the trigger is pulled and held back, the block lifts the selected sear away from the hammer slot, releasing the hammer to travel forward. On a gun with release hooks, the hook is also held in place by the trigger such that the pin or notch in the hammer (depending on who did the mod) engages the hook and the hammer is prevented from traveling forward further than a very small amount. The block is still engaged with the selected sear and holds the sear upward. Sometimes, the middle shelf becomes rounded with use and the block moves rearward and "slips" past the sear without lifting it. If this is the case, a new block should be installed and fitted.

- When the trigger is released, the hook will disengage from the hammer and the hammer will travel forward the full amount, striking the firing pin to fire. The block is still engaged with the sear but no longer holds it in an upward position.

- Move the block rearward fully with you finger or preferably, a small dowel inserted in front of the block. The block will disengage from the selected sear, the sear which has been fired will drop down.

- Release the block and it will travel forward and the side shelf on the side which corresponds to the un-fired barrel will move under the sear. This is the step in which you'll likely find trouble. If the shelf does not fully move under the sear, determine what is stopping the block from doing so. Most likely, there is interference from something which limits the travel of the block.

- Pulling the trigger a second time should lift the 2nd sear, releasing the hammer to be engaged by the hook.

- Releasing the trigger a second time will allow the 2nd hood to disengage and the 2nd hammer to travel forward fully striking the 2nd firing pin.

If any of this isn't happening, it is usually obvious as to what is causing the issue. Sometimes, it happens fine when the stock is off with snap caps but not with the recoil of live shells. These issues are harder to diagnose.

Best of luck, happy to answer questions via PM if you have any.

-Scot
 
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