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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a chance to hunt some 'shotgun only' property for deer. I was given an open-sighted slug barrel for my 1100. It seems okay, but now that I must wear reading spectacles the open sights were a lot harder to see than I remember.

So, I was thinking of getting getting one of the "saddle mounts" for my 1100 and adding a scope. Anyone here have experience with them?

When I asked my local dealer (good guy that has always been honest and helpful) about them, he asked what scope I was going to mount. I told him I had new-in-box Baush and Lomb Elite variable that I had not yet mounted on a rifle, so I thought I would just use that. He said that was a major NO-NO!. He said using a rifle scope on a shotgun is the fast track to ruining a good rifle scope. He suggested I just get a cheaper dedicated shotgun scope. Waddaya think about that?

Then he suggested I just get a cantilevered, rifled slug barrel.....for next year. Yeah, next year. His upstream supplier pipeline is totally void of rifled slug barrels.

So a solution for a day or two of deer hunting has gone from $35 for a saddlemount to about $400+ for a cantilevered rifled barrel plus scope. My thinking is back to just a saddlemount plus cheap shotgun scope (dealer say he sells at least of dozen shotgun scope a year in the $90-100 range, and he has yet to get one back).

So, long story/short - Any experience with those 1100 saddle mounts for scopes?
 

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I have a chance to hunt some 'shotgun only' property for deer. I was given an open-sighted slug barrel for my 1100. It seems okay, but now that I must wear reading spectacles the open sights were a lot harder to see than I remember.

So, I was thinking of getting getting one of the "saddle mounts" for my 1100 and adding a scope. Anyone here have experience with them?

When I asked my local dealer (good guy that has always been honest and helpful) about them, he asked what scope I was going to mount. I told him I had taken a scope off of my .270 and had not replaced yet so I thought I would just use that. He said that was a major NO-NO!. He said using a rifle scope on a shotgun is the fast track to ruining a good rifle scope. He suggested I just get a cheaper dedicated shotgun scope. Waddaya think about that?

Then he suggested I just get a cantilevered, rifled slug barrel.....for next year. Yeah, next year. His upstream supplier pipeline is totally void of rifled slug barrels.

So a cheap solution for a day or two
My suggestion, don't waste any money on short term solutions. Get a cantilevered barrel, quality scope, lowest mounting rings possible and try any load utilizing Barnes Expander bullets. These are a hollow point all copper bullet and have outstanding expansion. This combination will group nicely out to 125 yds. plus. I've seen it! Devastating on deer. My scope is a 1-1/2 to 5 power Weaver Grand Slam. Hasn't fallen apart yet and I don't expect it to.
 

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Any good quality rifle scope will hold up to a rifled slug shotgun blast. Nikon,leupold,Redfield and the others that cost a ridiculous amount of money. Saddle mounts are solid. Cantilevered mounts flex. Use the saddle mount and your rifle scope.


Jason in Pa
 

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For that money go buy a H&R ultra slugger. I'm in a shotgun only area. That is all my family use when not using a muzzle loader. Remington core lokt or accu tip slugs they are 200 yrd guns all day long. I have hold over dots in my scope and practice long yardage yearly. I just took a buck this past weekend at 240 yrds and that was my 17 th deer past 200 yards. Mine holds a 1 1/2" group at. 150 yd zero. That's what I would recommend I use leupold scopes. Good luck
 

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I'm afraid I must disagree re: the saddle mount suggestion by Jason. I have an Remington 870 but same principle as an 1100. I tried the saddle mount, used it with some effectiveness but just didn't like the accuracy and really didn't care for the aesthetics. I then purchased a Hasting canti-levered rifled barrel. With the 28" smooth bore full choke barrel my groups were acceptable but not great. The best I could do was 3" groups at 100 yards. When I went to the Hastings barrel I can honestly state I reduced the groups to 1 1/2" at 100 yards. I have always tried to obtain the most out of the equipment because I know the human element most often results in enough variation.

Re: the scope question - you get what you pay for. I'd suggest buy/use the best scope you can afford. If you're a meat hunter and not doing it for subsistence that's one thing. If you're a trophy hunter it's no fun having a fogged up scope or one that loses it zero when the buck of a lifetime comes into view.

My last comment would be to suggest you try a few different slugs. The saboted slugs work best for me - the premium Remington rounds shot exponentially better than the cheap slug rounds. The most expensive part of the process is getting sighted in. Once done, with the Hastings cantilevered barrel you can remove it and reinstall without losing zero.

Good luck with your search and good hunting.
 

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I'm afraid I must disagree re: the saddle mount suggestion by Jason. I have an Remington 870 but same principle as an 1100. I tried the saddle mount, used it with some effectiveness but just didn't like the accuracy and really didn't care for the aesthetics. I then purchased a Hasting canti-levered rifled barrel. With the 28" smooth bore full choke barrel my groups were acceptable but not great. The best I could do was 3" groups at 100 yards. When I went to the Hastings barrel I can honestly state I reduced the groups to 1 1/2" at 100 yards. I have always tried to obtain the most out of the equipment because I know the human element most often results in enough variation.

Re: the scope question - you get what you pay for. I'd suggest buy/use the best scope you can afford. If you're a meat hunter and not doing it for subsistence that's one thing. If you're a trophy hunter it's no fun having a fogged up scope or one that loses it zero when the buck of a lifetime comes into view.

My last comment would be to suggest you try a few different slugs. The saboted slugs work best for me - the premium Remington rounds shot exponentially better than the cheap slug rounds. The most expensive part of the process is getting sighted in. Once done, with the Hastings cantilevered barrel you can remove it and reinstall without losing zero.

Good luck with your search and good hunting.
With my initial reply I didn't touch on the fact that most if not all repeaters (ie: Rem 870, 1100, 1187 and others) will have some play between the barrel and receiver allowing inaccuracy if using a saddle mount. The cantilever mount on a Factory Rem. & Hastings slug barrels are rock solid and allow the slug gun to be shot with the scope/rings rigidly mounted to the business end of the slug gun: the barrel. The only other practical solution is to have a gunsmith weld the barrel to the receiver and then you could mount the rings to the receiver. A couple of places offer this service making the gun a dedicated slug gun. This combination may provide for similar accuracy as some of the bolt action slug guns that are manufactured. To maximize accuracy look into the trigger function of your shotgun, you want a somewhat light but crisp trigger just as in a rifle to get those tight groups and gain confidence.
 

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This is one of those rare opportunities where you have a legitimate 'need' to buy another shotgun. Just about all the makers of pump action shotguns offer a model that is set up for slug use and has a optic mounting rail. You like the m1100 so why not look at an 870 deer gun as a companion. For a scope, again there are extended eye relief models available from most of the makers just for this purpose. I find the Nikon products offer very good value.

Part of the fun of the hunt is the gearing up process so just go for it!
 

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I would go for a rifled barrel w cantilever. They are on E Bay if you look. I Like my 870 w one a lot. But I wish it was on an 1100 for the recoil mitigation. 12 Ga slug cranked up to 1500fps to 1650fps is some serious killing power on both ends.
Scopes are not forever on hard kicking rifles if they are not well made. Fixed 4 power is a pretty strong option. Weaver or Leopold.
The Leopold variable set up for parallax free at shotgun distance is a very nice option but a few more bucks than a used fixed 4x. Mine is very accurate with the rifled barrel. Weavers low power variable 1x3 is supposed to be pretty durable as well on a shotgun, but I have only shot one on a 44 Mag marlin.
Barrel mount or a saddle any above will be very nice.
Other cheap scopes might work, but what is your hunt worth to you? The barrel and the two scopes above hold their value very well.
Good Luck
 

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Only scopes that mount to the barrel will be accurate. The question is HOW ACCURATE is acceptable to YOU. I suppose a receiver mount would stay on a pie plate at 50 yards with a good sabot slug. I can tell you for sure that my 1100 with a cantilevered barrel, modestly priced scope, and Winchester sabo slugs will stay within 5 inches at 100 off a good rest. OH--that is with a screw in Remington rifled flush mount choke. This gun combination has been used on many Mossy Oak T.V. shows. Accuracy fooled heck out of all of us!!!
 

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The problem with the 870/1100/1187 is that the barrel is slightly loose in the receiver, and this affects accuracy. There is a trick some turkey hunters use to eliminate the play, but this requires drilling and tapping the side of the action to lock the barrel extension in place. A cantilever scope mount is better. since the optic line of sight will not deviate from the bore axis. You may need a raised comb stock to get proper eye alignment and cheek weld with the scope.

There are two barrel options. Smoothbore with choke tubes, and fully rifled.

If you are going to shoot regular slugs, try the 2-3/4" Remington Sluggers with a modified choke. I find they hold accuracy pretty well with a mod choke.

If you are going to use sabot slugs, don't use a smoothore with a rifled choke tube. In my experience the sabot simply strips across the tube's lands and does not spin, causing keyholing and huge groups. Get a fully rifled bore for sabot slugs.

If you are really serious about a repeating slug gun, check out the Savage 212.
http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/212
http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/212
 

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I personally like the red dot scope. I have 2 that mount on the frame, utilizing the trigger pin holes.

Our state just liberalized their firearm rules, and rifle shooting is available almost everywhere but for a couple local ordinance oddities.

Good deal, too. 2 bucks opening day on our wee 32 acre patch.

HM
 

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Two sons and myself have 303s with 24 inch Hastings cantilevered fully rifled barrels topped with quality Leupold scopes we use for deer hunting. Deadly accurate at long range also!

HAP
 

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If you had a chance to pick what you wanted what would you get?? I would like a 12 gauge, semi-automatic, and I like Sabot Hornady slugs or buckshot. I should mention I live in NH and hunt both Vermont and Maine, and have used Red Dot type of optics.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Lot's of good info here. When I digest it all, I'll let you know what I am thinking.

One point, then two questions.

The one point - This set-up would be for semi-local, low-key, pot (freezer) hunting for doe. I have zero desire kill another small buck, and killing a trophy buck on this property would be an insult to the property owner and probably get me disinvited. I won't even be hunting this property during buck season. So I am not giving up much to pass on a long shot.

Questions -

*The Red Dot scope seems like a good choice. Do they work with saddle mount?

*Regarding the H&R slugger, I googled those and came up with 5 1/4 lbs. Recoil has to be brutal. :eek:

I checked the sights on my barrel with a friend with cantilevered barrel on a 870. He say telling the high price of slugs he was using and added that he hoped he found he was still on with the first shot as he didn't want to be shooting that gun a lot. Well, on his first shot the recoil knocked his hat off. He then said, "Now you know why I wanted to get this done with one shot." I said I thought it was because of the price of ammo. He said, "That too, but primarily it's the recoil with this 870. And 870 with slugs recoils as much as a .375 H&H in a rifle." :(

I asked him if he had considering using low recoil slugs. He said he did, but the only come in Foster slugs, and using those pretty much negates the point of a rifled cantilevered barrel.
 

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The h & r ultra slugger has a 10 ga. Barrel bored to 12 ga. (Bull barrel set up). Trust me they are heavy. They make the light barrel gun too. My kids and friends use the 20 ga. (12 ga barrel bored to. 20 ga. ). These are awesome and a lot better on recoil. I shoulder busted a doe at 230 yrd with a clean pass through with my sons 20 ga. Dropped her instantly. Very accurate. My 9 yr old daughter heart shot a doe with it. She said it did kick her but she said not extremely bad. It was her choice because the deer was out of range for the crossbow. My son has been using it since he was 11 and has shot 4 deer never complained on recoil once. In this day in age I would recommend the 20 ga. With sabot slug the performance is outstanding
 

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Our 2 20 ga ultra sluggers group under an inch at 100 yrds. It has been the best tool for the youth hunters in our area. I have borrowed it to 3 other kids 13 and under and all have gotten their deer with 1 shot. They are great
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Well, the H&R in 20 gauge seems a good option. I allows me to let some younger shooters use it. But with the 20 gauge, 2 3/4" or 3".

But it seems the H&R and a cantilevered barrel for 1100 well set me back the same $$$. Dunno which, but that decision will come later. For this year I'll just stick with the smooth-bore, iron-sighted, slug barrel on the 1100 with the Foster slugs that came with the barrel. I'll be able to make a better decision after a little more experience.

Only other question will be Red Dot or Shotgun scope?

My dealer told me what he thinks I can get for a new-in-box Bauch&Lomb Elite scope I got, but never put on the rifle I'll probably never use again. If I can get that much for it, it makes sense to sell it and buy something else for the shotgun. Might sell that rifle too.

Thanks.
 

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I'd opt for the barrel and a decent scope. I have a Savage 210(older 12ga model)with a Bushnell 3x9x40 on it, and my Savage 220 I have a Swift 3.5x10x44. I've used Federal Barnes Expanders religiously out of my 210, but that bullet is no longer available. I have 19 boxes of them, but I recently tried some Remington Accu-Tips out of it. Held a .5" group at 100yds with it. Is a little more recoil but Federals are 1450fps compared to the Remington's 1850fps. I'll start to replace my Federals with these. I do use the Remington's in my 20ga with no issues what so ever. I carry these guns on a regular basis when needed, and PA is a rifle state. People laugh when I say slug gun, but at the range when they see them in action, they change their tune real quick. I used 2 3/4" out of each gun. I have the same Model Swift scopes on my 3 TC Pro hunter barrels(.280, 7MM Mag, .50 ML). My 210 has the original scope on when I bought it back in 2000. It's been through warm, cold, snow, rain, fog, you name it, and never had an issue with it.
 

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where'd you find those barrels? I've been watching for awhile now and never seen one.

Two sons and myself have 303s with 24 inch Hastings cantilevered fully rifled barrels topped with quality Leupold scopes we use for deer hunting. Deadly accurate at long range also!

HAP
 
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