S&W 686 Removed from listing
686 stainless steel .357 magnum revolver.
4" barrel, L frame.
The original box and papers are included.
For those who understand the codes the features are:TS-CT-RR-WO. It does have Pachmayr grips.
Very nice condition and well taken care of. This is a size that is comfortable to shoot the .357.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
4" barrel, L frame.
The original box and papers are included.
For those who understand the codes the features are:TS-CT-RR-WO. It does have Pachmayr grips.
Very nice condition and well taken care of. This is a size that is comfortable to shoot the .357.
- Status
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Joined
·
257 Posts
Too bad I own one of these already. I like it so much, I considered buying this one as well!
Nice to see that it lacks the Hilary Hole.
jh
Nice to see that it lacks the Hilary Hole.
jh
Joined
·
126 Posts
It is a 686-3, three engineering updates as I understand.
The gun is being sold with the Pachmayr grips as shown.
I never liked the original grips and am not a collector.
Great gun as it is.
Don
The gun is being sold with the Pachmayr grips as shown.
I never liked the original grips and am not a collector.
Great gun as it is.
Don
Joined
·
126 Posts
Up --Lot of interest but still for sale.
Joined
·
8,533 Posts
To The Top
;-)
;-)
Joined
·
126 Posts
TTT
Joined
·
6,202 Posts
They are - for like-new, all-original guns. The factory stocks that gun was shipped with cost between $75 and $120 to replace, depending upon condition and wood figure. Also, while I suspect the gun saw little use, buyers will be cautious with photos like those that show little important detail. If I were interested in it, I would be asking for close-up photos of areas of the gun that are good wear indicators.
Additionally, the gun looks dirty. It may not be but the first photo especially makes the cylinder and frame appear to have either dirt or scuffs on them. I always go on the assumption that if marks can be cleaned off, the seller would have done that in order to get the most money possible.
The gun has no special features like target trigger and hammer and it has the standard sight package for that model. Those are not negatives; a high percentage of the 4" 686-3s were equipped that way. But "factory" extras always add value. Here are two photos of my 4" 686-3, a near-twin to that gun. It has the correct factory stocks as well as a target trigger and hammer and they are the type of photo you want to use.
![]()
![]()
"Will," do yourself a favor by taking some good, clear close-ups of the gun with the cylinder open, hammer cocked, bottom of the frame and barrel and anywhere that wear or other marks can hide. For example, the area of the underside of the top strap right above the barrel's forcing cone is a must-show as a lack of flame-cutting there will alleviate any concerns about the gun having been fed a lot of hot loads. No one is going to pay top dollar for a gun from photos that don't make it look top-dollar and remove any doubts about the gun.
We also cannot tell if the gun has a square or round butt grip frame. That's important to some people, myself included, and later -3s were transitioning from square to round.
This is a great site on which to sell guns like yours. I've sold several S&Ws here and if the guns justify the asking price, these guys buy them. You have a very desireable gun - next to last engineering change before forged parts were replaced with injection molded ones, one of the last with a square butt and the last version with a square rear sight tang. In my opinion, its the best 686 variant.
Ed
Additionally, the gun looks dirty. It may not be but the first photo especially makes the cylinder and frame appear to have either dirt or scuffs on them. I always go on the assumption that if marks can be cleaned off, the seller would have done that in order to get the most money possible.
The gun has no special features like target trigger and hammer and it has the standard sight package for that model. Those are not negatives; a high percentage of the 4" 686-3s were equipped that way. But "factory" extras always add value. Here are two photos of my 4" 686-3, a near-twin to that gun. It has the correct factory stocks as well as a target trigger and hammer and they are the type of photo you want to use.
"Will," do yourself a favor by taking some good, clear close-ups of the gun with the cylinder open, hammer cocked, bottom of the frame and barrel and anywhere that wear or other marks can hide. For example, the area of the underside of the top strap right above the barrel's forcing cone is a must-show as a lack of flame-cutting there will alleviate any concerns about the gun having been fed a lot of hot loads. No one is going to pay top dollar for a gun from photos that don't make it look top-dollar and remove any doubts about the gun.
We also cannot tell if the gun has a square or round butt grip frame. That's important to some people, myself included, and later -3s were transitioning from square to round.
This is a great site on which to sell guns like yours. I've sold several S&Ws here and if the guns justify the asking price, these guys buy them. You have a very desireable gun - next to last engineering change before forged parts were replaced with injection molded ones, one of the last with a square butt and the last version with a square rear sight tang. In my opinion, its the best 686 variant.
Ed
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
