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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just pulled a couple of my guns out of the cabinet that don't get shot very often. I found rust on 1 of them, on the barrel and vent rib. Not bad, no pitting, but it left some color difference. What is the best way to remove this without hurting the finish? There must have been some water drops on it or something before I put it away. I am upset with myself for letting this happen, now how do I fix it?
 

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Steel wool usually takes the blue off with the rust. Brownells had a stainless steel "brillo-type pad" that worked with a LOT of oil. Took the rust and left the finish if you didn't get to "wild" with it. You can't oil to much when using any abrasive or scratcher. If there is no pitting, try just WD40 and a rag after you rub in and soak in the real oil to the spots. ...merlyn...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rick,
I am interested in the pencil lead method. Do you scribble on the rusted area with the pencil? Use and oil with it?
-Brian
 

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I fixed some small rust spots on a friends .410. I used a steel? pad from Midway USA, customer service should be able to tell you, and WD-40. I removed the WD with a cleaner and applied cold blue. Worked perfectly. The material looks like a round ball of steel strips. If you want me to dig a little more let me know. Michael and Jane
 

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brian meyerhofer:

Easy fix


Powder coat it or use oven baked paint.

matainece free just wipe off the black around the porting and shoot Rain or shine.


Foggy
 

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Bryan, this is an old gunsmith trick. The lead is a very mild abrasive! Just scribble over the spots with a lead pencil, then wipe with oil. This will not damage the good bluing, but it won't remove the rust in deep pits. That takes steel wool w/kroil and a bit of rubbing.

Foggy, who did that powder coat job for you? I may try a "Skunk Grade" project myself. Rick Gibbs
 

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k1200ltc509


Ok just a local friend but as you can tell from the color it's half and half ok the front half is powder coated and the reciever part was done with the oven baked type of paint I might get it all powder coated in the future.

I got a friend that said he would do the rest but im sure any of the powder coat guys that are good could do it even though it is white on the barrel and is ported also all I have to do is just wipe the black dust off from the ports and it's brand new again.

Ok it makes a good night gun the above picture was took in complete dark and the flash of the camera is what made it look like the lights was on.

Foggy
 

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An old trick is gun oil and cigarette ash.
Wet down the rust with gun oil. Drop some cigarette ash on the rust and rub the ash in with a Q tip. Repeat the oil and ash until the rust is gone. Doesn't hurt to change Q tips when one gets black. The cigarette ash is abrasive enough to cut the rust, but it won't cut the bluing.
Dan
 

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Break Free seems to get under the rust and allow very fine steel wool to remove it.

I have also used the lead wipe cloth to good effect.

HM
 

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Brian,

I used to have that problem when I left a hunting gun sit too long after using it.

I used the eraser on a pencil and then oiled the spot.(actually the whole gun.)

That will remove any surface rust.

Jere
 

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Hmmm ... powder coated gun ... I have never thought of that idea before. As long as the powder coater could seal the actions up good enough so as to not get any on the actions/interiors it would be a great way for an almost maintaince free finish.

How does the action of the slide work with the powder coating or is the mag tube part of the heat baked painted area?
 

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In Foggy's honor, I painted the lumber on my Citori a metalic gray from the Wal-Mart collection complete with a black foamy cheek-eeze pad and "christened" it the "POSSUM-GRADE RICE GRINDER". WOW............merlyn.......
 

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Rust is like a metal cancer, once it gets a foot in the door, total removal is the only way to stop it. Leaving the smallest speck will continue growing. I've always removed enough metal to make sure I got all the rust, then re-blue the part or whole gun. Hap
 
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