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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello - I recently bought a new CG Inv I (thanks Gooch) and within a week decided to torture test it against some concrete! Passed the test but it’s time to get rid of the reminders. 2 questions:

1. How do you get dried boiled linseed oil out of checkering w/o sanding?

2. What should my next steps be to get out dents and before putting coats of truoil? (So far I’ve done 1 pass with steel wool)

Pics below - Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

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To remove the dents wet the areas and then cover with a damp cloth. Take a steam iron on heat high and apply it to the area where the tent is and allow the steam to push the dent back up steel wool the area and finish
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you - Working great so far!! After steaming - How long do you wait before you start using steel wool? Are there any steps you take between steaming and sanding?

I can barely feel the dents but they are still visible so I’m thinking about hitting the steam up one more time Tomorrow. Any reason not to do that??
 

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First don't sand use only 0000 steel wool wait a couple of days for the moisture to dry out of the wood then finish. Sanding cuts into a new layer of wood which means you would have to de whisker that area of stock with steel wool.
 

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As for cleaning up the checkering just get some naphtha and a tooth brush should work just fine
 

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Just be careful with the Naphtha,

HAZARD SUMMARY
* Naphtha can affect you when breathed in and by passing through your skin. * Contact can irritate and burn the skin and eyes. * Breathing Naphtha can irritate the nose and throat. * Exposure to Naphtha can cause headache, dizziness, nausea and vomiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Copy that. I was referring to the sanding motion w/ steel wool. I have it near a dehumidifier, would that cause an issue drawing moisture out faster than normal? Sorry for the simple questions - I don’t want to assume anything.

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Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just be careful with the Naphtha,

HAZARD SUMMARY
* Naphtha can affect you when breathed in and by passing through your skin. * Contact can irritate and burn the skin and eyes. * Breathing Naphtha can irritate the nose and throat. * Exposure to Naphtha can cause headache, dizziness, nausea and vomiting.
Roger that! Thanks for the heads up
 

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You have made a great deal of progress....however, I think it is time to use a bit of
Filler on the deep gouges.
I prefer to sand with 600 or 800 grit wet/dry auto motive sand paper and Tru Oil.
I never use steel wool on wood .
If you can checker....you might consider checkering the panels where the wood
meets the receiver.
 

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Hello - I recently bought a new CG Inv I (thanks Gooch) and within a week decided to torture test it against some concrete! Passed the test but it’s time to get rid of the reminders. 2 questions:

1. How do you get dried boiled linseed oil out of checkering w/o sanding?

2. What should my next steps be to get out dents and before putting coats of truoil? (So far I’ve done 1 pass with steel wool)

Pics below - Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

View attachment 1679087


View attachment 1679085

View attachment 1679089
Roger that! Thanks for the heads up
You have made a great deal of progress....however, I think it is time to use a bit of
Filler on the deep gouges.
I prefer to sand with 600 or 800 grit wet/dry auto motive sand paper and Tru Oil.
I never use steel wool on wood .
If you can checker....you might consider checkering the panels where the wood
meets the receiver.
CG sell's their finish. Should match pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for saying that!! I totally forgot that we bought one of these last year...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Should I put the forend on the barrel after steaming? Just remembering something Phil at CG told me after last year’s NC State monsoon.
 

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Steaming the dents then fill the dents with finish or clear epoxy prior to the finish coats. I always use pro custom oil from brownells. Permalyn is a good choice also available from brownells
 

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On the checkering you need a checkering tool or you can get some mini files from harbor freight and grind them into a v one side smooth the other cuts. I make them when it’s an unusual spacing or machine checkering.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Steaming the dents then fill the dents with finish or clear epoxy prior to the finish coats. I always use pro custom oil from brownells. Permalyn is a good choice also available from brownells
Thank you. Right now, after 2nd day of steaming, you can hardly feel the dents. I have boiled linseed oil and truoil. I’d like to do something like your recommendation - filling in dents with linseed oil and finishing w/a few coats of truoil since it’s not a filler type of finish. How would you advise I sequentially use them. Lots of conflicting reports on the webs...

GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
On the checkering you need a checkering tool or you can get some mini files from harbor freight and grind them into a v one side smooth the other cuts. I make them when it’s an unusual spacing or machine checkering.
Don’t think I’m ready to take on checkering just yet but thanks for the insight. Definitely will be saved as a point of reference when/if the time comes.

EDIT - not trying to add filler posts - noticed Gunstock 12 just got banned. Hope it wasn’t for giving terrible stock refinishing tips!!! If not, Let em back on till I get this thing finished or at least answer my question...jk
 

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Hello - I recently bought a new CG Inv I (thanks Gooch) and within a week decided to torture test it against some concrete! Passed the test but it’s time to get rid of the reminders. 2 questions:

1. How do you get dried boiled linseed oil out of checkering w/o sanding?

2. What should my next steps be to get out dents and before putting coats of truoil? (So far I’ve done 1 pass with steel wool)

Pics below - Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

View attachment 1679087


View attachment 1679085

View attachment 1679089
On the butstock tape off the checkering, carefully cut the border into the edge of the checkering with an "exacto-knife" this will protect the checkering from both sanding and to some extent the new coat of oil.

If working on dents in the forend checkering, Brownells sell a curved three corner file, with care this will refresh the checkering, a little goes a long way, further if you lose the line though. Between that file and toothbrushes, for cleaning, stripping and sealing this is more than enough tools to get the job done.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sad update - I had a small crack fixed by CG recently. Checked the next morning after a coat of boiled linseed oil- man the wood is looking great! - turned it over- Apparently steam doesn’t just target the dents - SOB. Back to CG...

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