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Remington 1100's

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The 1100's - what is the difference between a standard and a light weight 1100 and how can I tell the difference between them?
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If you're referring to the 1100 20 gauge, the standard hasn't been built in lots of years. It's a "standard" 12 gauge frame but chambered for a 20 gauge. A 2 3/4" 20 gauge standard will have a serial number that ends in and X. A 3" 20 gauge standard will have a serial number that ends in a K.
 

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And beware of late model Sporting .410 (and probably 28s as they share same action bar assembly)
have seen online of people having same issue I have- block that supports bolt cracks upwards into cocking handle slot
been thru 3 assemblies- other people got ZERO help from Remington before bankruptcy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you're referring to the 1100 20 gauge, the standard hasn't been built in lots of years. It's a "standard" 12 gauge frame but chambered for a 20 gauge. A 2 3/4" 20 gauge standard will have a serial number that ends in and X. A 3" 20 gauge standard will have a serial number that ends in a K.
So then, I guess a LT serial number will end in something other than an X or a K?
 

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The LW receiver is used for the 20, 28, and .410. From 1970 to 1977, the 20 gauge 1100 barrel had a short tang, same as the 28 and .410, and the ejector was riveted into the receiver wall. After 1977, the tang was lengthened and the ejector boss was part of the barrel assembly, same as it is on the 12.
 

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I have an 1100 20ga. Magnum serial# ending with a N. Barrel stamped , 3 inch shells. It's been reblued so I see a feint Mod. stamped closer to the chamber. I've shot it a few times with 2 3/4 shells, but don't know if I'm risking hurting someone or something doing this. Since it doesn't cycle with 2 3/4 shells it's hard on my arthritic hand, but I like the near zero recoil and the fit. Is this an ok guns to get me started shooting trap? Any advice appreciated.
 
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