Some clarification is needed. When you say "the gun won't fire", do you meant that it does not go Bang but you can hear the hammer fall or do you not even hear any sound like the hammer being released with a shell in the chamber?
If you have no shell in the chamber and pull the trigger, does the hammer fall or not?
If it will drop the hammer on an empty chamber but not on a loaded chamber using factory ammo (to prevent a high primer or belled out shell head from sticking rearward on a reload), there is a good chance that something is preventing the shell from fully seating. When you cleaned it, you didn't perchance leave a part of a shell mouth in the throat of the chamber, or maybe even a piece of cleaning patch? Can you manually insert a shell into the chamber with the barrel out of the gun? Does it go fully into the chamber with the entire head, other than the rim, being fully seated in the chamber?
If it does drop the hammer on an empty chamber, does it also do so on a loaded chamber? If so, you might have a broken firing pin or maybe the spring on the firing pin is broken an jamming the firing pin from going fully forward. How does the rear of the bolt, where the hammer hits, look? Any significant burrs or cracks etc.?
Answer those questions and you stand a better chance of getting a useful answer.
I recently had a problem on my 11 87 Sporting Clays where the hammer would fall and the firing pin would not strike the primer of the chambered round. I removed the forend stock and barrel to discover that the radiused tab of the stamped metal forend support had broken off of the clip portion that attaches it to the action bar assembly. Upon dropping the trigger assembly I found the broken off tab from the forend support. I replaced the forend support with a new part ordered from Brownells for about $10 and the gun has been functioning fine since then. You may want to take a look at your forend support since the 1100 and 11 87 are very similar models.
pyrdek; the hammer doesn't fall when the trigger is in the gun but it will fall outside of gun the firing pin is not broke when you pull the trigger you don't even get a click it won't release when fully assembled I guess my question is why won't it release in the gun and will release outside the gun. thanks geo 3
Check that the action bar lock lever isn't bent outward. Had to bend one in a little to get my 1100 to fire. If it's bent, the trigger won't engage the sear when assembled but will work fine out of the gun.
well I finaly got the gun to fire when you load a shell in chamber and close bolt it will shoot but if you load it and try to open without firing it won't open whats wrong now and also the recoil is more than before any answers. thanks geo 3
The last entry you posted sure sounds like the shell might be an oversized shell. Are these factory rounds you are using? Did you have to force the bolt closed or did it close freely on its own spring power?
It is also possible that you have two separate issues. One could be an oversize shell and and/or something keeping the locking lug from opening or locking freely.
Does the magazine tube show any scratches, bends or dents? If so, the action may not be closing and hence the lack of firing or now the inability to open the action manually. You should also look for signs of excessive friction. It could also retard the action sleeve. Along the same line, is one or maybe both of the action bars binding where they go into the receiver? While you are looking there, also look for a crack in one of the bars. If the action ring or bolt is held up, it could act more like a locked breech gun and transfer more of the recoil to the gun.
The sides of the receiver should show absolutely no bowing, either in or out. If there is any such bowing, you might have a bent receiver.
One thing you could try if the lack of firing returns is to, USING AN EMPTY BARREL put a dowel rod large enough to cover the center of the bolt face but a loose fit in the barrel into the barrel. Then when you pull the trigger, see it there is movement of the dowel rod to show that the firing pin actual pushed the dowel. You may want to put slight finger pressure on the dowel to more clearly see if the rod is pushed by the firing pin. If there is no movement, then the firing pin is not clearing the bolt and thus no primer ignition. If there is movement then the problem looks more closely ammo related.
The other situation is a similar partial blockage in the recoil spring in the tube in the stock. Does the plunger slid freely for the entire length, especially near the receiver end, of the tube? No dirt build up or maybe a piece of shot caught in there causing a bind?
Is the link (tuning fork) intact? There should be a slight rounding on the two "fingers" of the link where it enters the plunger/ No sharp edges.
I have had a couple of issues similar to yours,on a single shot sometimes the shell would locke up and it do would this on the second shot on doubles.I found the interceptor latch,part 39 on the Numrich site,was bent.This is on the side of the reciever held in with a small snap ring.Ifound that the latch didnt have full trael up & down like it should and was bent, you can push on this and it should be free just the single wire spring tension.On mine also the spring had jumped out of the latch housing.I changed both.Tricky without small snap pliers,but a small screw driver will work.
pyrdek; I no for sure it is not the shells I shoot AA silvers or rem nitro I will check out your info thanks for all of your help I just glag it fires now I am not using it for trap or skeet just for any tresspassing varmits or critters and mainly rattlesnakes to protect my dogs. thanks again I will let you no final outcome of gun geo 3
A couple more things to check if the hammer does not fall when the trigger group is in the receiver are:
The left action bar is the major "player" in getting the gun locked and ready to fire. Check it carefully. When the action is fully locked, this allows the disconnector front arm to clear the end of the left action bar and the rear of the disconnector lowers which allows the right connector to move to the connected ready to fire position.
Check the locking lug and its seat in the barrel for burrs or rough edges. If the lug does not fully seat, the firing pin may not be allowed to move. Also the disconnector may hang up and prevent hammer fall.
Carefully check the slide block (part of the action bar assembly that the bolt sits on) for cracks, burrs are other physical damage. This is what can move the locking lug into position.
Check the barrel extension for burrs, cracks or peened over edges.
Check the grooves in the receiver where the link (tuning fork) slides. Be careful checking these since the edges on these grooves are usually sharp as a razor and can easily slice your finger.
You may have had some kind or burr or perhaps a piece of dirt in one of these areas that can cause some of your problems and as you worked the action you may have worn the problem area down just enough to allow the gun to fire. If that is the case you will have to try to find what caused the burr and correct the root of the problem.