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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
cousin has 20 gauge Mag receiver Rem 1100 with single gas hole in barrel and 3" chamber.

Can not shoot lower velocity 1 oz loads or any 7/8 oz loads.

Which 2 3/4" barrel with 2 gas ports should we be hunting for? I don't ( nor does he) fully understand the standard receiver vs LT vs LW versions ... would like to find one with a vent rib as that's what the Mag barrel is.

Thx for any info, guidance, experience!!
 

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Small frame 20 ga guns. LW is short tang like 870. LT is long tang like 12 ,16 and full-size frame 20. 1100's. Also full size 20 uses same size magazine cap as 12 ga.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Skrap56.... that's a real good summary for guy s like us! Guessingvits either an LT or full size so have to compare it to my Rem 1100 12 gauge.

If tang is long but cap doesn't fit then LT... if tang long and Mag cap fits it's standard full size frame.
 

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Standard 20's also had an "X" at the end of the serial number.

Std 20 VR barrels are hard to find and very pricey.

Pat
 

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If you can pass a quarter through the hole that fits over the mag tube, the barrel is for a "standard" (20 gauge built on a 12 gauge receiver, receiver will have an X suffix on the serial number). As Pat said, you'll pay a premium for a "standard" 20 gauge barrel ($250 or more). Look through the "old barrel" box at the local gun shop and see what you can find. I found one that way and one on ebay that was a good deal.

The LT or LW 20 gauge barrels are more plentiful and less costly.
 

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Drill the hole bigger. Lets more gas in. Since it not high pressure from a 3" mag shell you need more gas. Works good. Just don't shoot any 3" mags anymore. Not exactly sure on the hole size. I took the shotgun and portable drill out to the range with a bunch of increasing size drill bits. Drill or ream hole. Put gun together and shoot. Take apart, drill and shoot it till it ejects and cycles with 2 3/4" Trap or light field loads. Went and measured hole 7/64". Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Was thinking about very slight and gradual port enlargement. Read where a few guys do a second hole kind of like factory has... sounds a little more tricky to me though. Apparently some do a second hole and tread it so they can block it off if using 3" shells... I m thinking a separate gun starts making sense at that point!
 

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Was thinking about very slight and gradual port enlargement. Read where a few guys do a second hole kind of like factory has... sounds a little more tricky to me though. Apparently some do a second hole and tread it so they can block it off if using 3" shells... I m thinking a separate gun starts making sense at that point!
If you are thinking of a different barrel..check kittery trading post web site..they are in maine..usually have a lot of used barrels..I bought 3 from them off web site..good prices ..no disappointments
 

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Was thinking about very slight and gradual port enlargement. Read where a few guys do a second hole kind of like factory has... sounds a little more tricky to me though. Apparently some do a second hole and tread it so they can block it off if using 3" shells... I m thinking a separate gun starts making sense at that point!
I think you're on the right track gradually enlarging the gas port, as Randy suggested. Drilling a second hole and threading it is an interesting idea, but since the port is angled and inside the gas cylinder, it's gonna be real tricky to drill accurately and at the correct angle without a sophisticated drill press and bits or a mill. On the other hand, gradually enlarging the port should be pretty simple and can be done without unusual tooling.

While some things can be done, it doesn't mean they should be done and I agree that it might make more sense to just buy a different barrel or gun for shooting different types of shells.
 

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You still haven't said if it is a "Standard", if it is you should seek out another barrel. It would be a shame to alter a scarce barrel in that way. Prices of Standard 20 magnums are always high, having a second barrel would add more value than the cost of the second barrel.

There were lots of skeet grade guns and those barrels do not bring the premium prices that the Mod or Full barrels do.

If it is a LW or LT, you can't hurt the value at all.

JMHO, Pat
 

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I have spare 20 ga barrels, both LT and Standard. Once you figure out what you have perhaps we can talk.
 

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If you drill a second hole, like mentioned it will work with light loads. You can also make up a plug using a nail, and put that in one of the holes if you want to shoot really heavy loads in it after you have put in the 2nd hole. The plug you make up has to use a nail about the size of the hole, and you leave just enough nail head on so that the plug will not drop into the barrel when you insert it. The magazine tube will keep the plug in while the barrel is mounted on the gun. You just have to hold the gun and barrel upside down while inserting barrel onto the action for assembly.
So you don't have to buy extra barrels, and you retain the ability to use light and heavy loads.

1100 standard 20 gauge port and drill sizes:
20ga-28/26/22" .076"/ #48 2 ports
20ga-28" (Magnum) .076"/ #48 1 port

1100 lightweight 20 ga port and drill sizes
20ga-28/26" (LT) .067"/ #51 2 ports
20ga-26" Skeet(LT) .067"/ #51 2 ports
26 " " 20ga-28" Magnum (LT) .064"/ #52 1 port
27 " " 20ga-28" (LW Magnum) .064"/ #52 1 port
 

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You can also make up a plug using a nail, and put that in one of the holes if you want to shoot really heavy loads in it after you have put in the 2nd hole. The plug you make up has to use a nail about the size of the hole, and you leave just enough nail head on so that the plug will not drop into the barrel when you insert it.
Either buy a different barrel or drill and tap a second hole and use a tiny set screw to block the hole when you need to shoot heavier loads.

Sorry - the idea of a 1/4" long chunk of finishing nail that fits loosely enough that the barrel has to be inverted to keep it in position while assembling the gun doesn't do a thing for me. Your mileage may vary.
 

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Either buy a different barrel or drill and tap a second hole and use a tiny set screw to block the hole when you need to shoot heavier loads.

Sorry - the idea of a 1/4" long chunk of finishing nail that fits loosely enough that the barrel has to be inverted to keep it in position while assembling the gun doesn't do a thing for me. Your mileage may vary.
And your idea does not do a thing for me, having to mess around trying to screw and unscrew a tiny screw inside a tube with no access, with screw threads loaded down with powder, and also having to tap the hole and not lose the tiny screw. having to have that tiny screw driver available. All that does nothing for me. You use a nail that is not a loose fit. You can even use one over size, chuck it up in your drill, turn the drill on, stroke it couple times with a file and fit it perfect. You don't have to be an idiot and use one that is a loose fit. Turning a barrel upside down is much more easy than trying to position an 1/8th inch long screw into a hole inside a tube. Sorry, you can't figure any of this out to use things of the correct size. With that brain you would probably put the wrong size screw in also, break the tap in the hole, have it stuck and never get it out. You got to have some brains to do any job. If you can't figure out how to fit a pin in hole you probably not got the brains to drill, tap, do that. The pin works fine, takes less than 15 minutes and you can make up several in that time when you do it. It is quite simple and can be done if you have brains enough. Sorry, you don't impress me a bit. I like the pin, works much easier than tapping. Also cheaper, not everyone in the world wants to buy a tap and if they are not experienced, good chance they will break that small tap in the hole, then they got real trouble. I got taps, drills etc, and can do all that easy, but my way is even more simple and is much better advice especially for an audience here that includes many without tools and experience with those tools.
 

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No need to get all aggro, sir. The drill and tap with a set screw is not "my" idea - it was an idea that had been floated previously in this thread and I noted at that time that it required reasonably sophisticated tooling and skill to make it work. I'm sure your concept would work - as I said "your mileage may vary".

I know we're all having to hang out at home and that's frustrating, but let's maintain a civil tone between the members of the forum, who, after all, share a common passion. Just my two cents.
 

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No need to get all aggro, sir. The drill and tap with a set screw is not "my" idea - it was an idea that had been floated previously in this thread and I noted at that time that it required reasonably sophisticated tooling and skill to make it work. I'm sure your concept would work - as I said "your mileage may vary".

I know we're all having to hang out at home and that's frustrating, but let's maintain a civil tone between the members of the forum, who, after all, share a common passion. Just my two cents.
I am being factual. What I say is what I see as fact. The drill and tap idea is workable but has all the problems I stated and even more. To name the more, you got to buy the plug screw, you got to buy a tap, it has to be long enough to extend through the gas cylinder and reach into the barrel and penetrate deep enough to get the needed threads so the tap is going to have to be longer than 1 3/4 inches. The standard taps of the size we are talking about are not even that long. Then you got to do the tapping, without breaking the tap off in the gas port. After it is in there then you have the problem of keeping the threads clean, with burnt powder residue impacting it thousands of times in between uses. Also just starting a tiny plug screw less than a quarter inch long is a pain in the ass even when you have total control, like on a flat surface. Try starting that same nub a of screw inside a gas cylinder buried an inch deep where you can't even get your fingers in, and at an angle, and getting it started with a screw driver inside the same gas cylinder without dropping it about 5 times, and you will find that much more a trouble than holding your barrel upside down while putting in a plug. After all, you got to turn the barrel upside down to put the screw in too. I use a plug in some of my 1100 barrels all the time, and find it to be minimal problem.

Now if you don't want to take 5 minutes and make up a plug another way to plug the second hole is use shot and with a small punch drive some shot like 7 1/2 or 8 into the hole, drive about 3 or 4 pellets in there, and you can shoot 3 inch shells till the cows come home, with nothing but friction holding your plug in there. When you want to go back to 2 holes, take the same punch and just drive the pellets in the hole into the barrel where they fall out. Now you are back to being able to use low power shells. This is how I did it years back when switching between 3 inch and 2 3/4 in my magnum decades ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the ideas Gentlemen ! Jittery didnot have 20 gauge barrels when I looked. Will have to check Corson in AZ.

I need to talk with my cousin to pull the gun out so we can determine which model he has ... unfortunately he's in NV and I m in ID and we re stuck at home like everyone else with the Covid19 situation. If it wasn't for that I d of driven down there and we d of already had a couple spring Sage Rat hunts under our belts by now. Darn it!
 
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