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Have you changed primers? I ve been useing claybuster wads with no problems.
Reloads are going POOF
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Check to make sure
1: There isn't powder migrating between the wad and hull.
2: The wad has enough inherent tightness that when the powder ignites the seal section at the bottom of the wad is able to contain the expanding gasses.
If you could find a few of your used wads that might be revealing.
1: There isn't powder migrating between the wad and hull.
2: The wad has enough inherent tightness that when the powder ignites the seal section at the bottom of the wad is able to contain the expanding gasses.
If you could find a few of your used wads that might be revealing.
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I also use the claybuster fig. 8 in 1 1/8 oz and 1oz.with a American Target primer. Excellent results.
Another possible source of problems I ran into was with pick up hulls, make sure there is no debris such as grass, bug, or a small piece of a target inside of them. Just a piece of grass over the primer flash hole is sufficient to prevent complete combustion.
Johnpe
Johnpe
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I assume that frigid temps. are not an issue here. Are you using the same gun that previously worked well with this load? Some larger bores seem to be more suseptable to bloopers than the smaller, tighter bores.
My theory has always been that bloopers, IF that is what we are dealing with here, are caused by wads not expanding adequately.
We had that problem with some claybuster wads in very cold weather. Now I use downrange stuff, and keep shells warm on ridiculously cold days (or I stay home...).
dju
My theory has always been that bloopers, IF that is what we are dealing with here, are caused by wads not expanding adequately.
We had that problem with some claybuster wads in very cold weather. Now I use downrange stuff, and keep shells warm on ridiculously cold days (or I stay home...).
dju
Any chance that your firing pin spring is either weak or partially broke so that the firing pin is getting a weaker than normal impact on the primer? A weak impact might cause the primer detonation to be less energetic than previously and thus contribute to lower powder ignition and/or only partial burn.
I am presuming that the primer is fully seated into the primer pocket so that the firing pin does not have to drive it forward before it can set it off.
Another thing is checking the seating depth of the wad. If your previous Rem Fig 8 was a bit stiffer than the CB Fig 8, might you be putting less firm pressure because of a collapsing wad and not seating the wad firmly in the powder? Have you tried increasing the wad seating pressure a little to see what happens?
Just for kicks can you try a box or two of the same components and powder charges except for changing to a hotter primer (but one that still is within the recommendations of credible loading manuals) or manufacturer information.
I am presuming that the primer is fully seated into the primer pocket so that the firing pin does not have to drive it forward before it can set it off.
Another thing is checking the seating depth of the wad. If your previous Rem Fig 8 was a bit stiffer than the CB Fig 8, might you be putting less firm pressure because of a collapsing wad and not seating the wad firmly in the powder? Have you tried increasing the wad seating pressure a little to see what happens?
Just for kicks can you try a box or two of the same components and powder charges except for changing to a hotter primer (but one that still is within the recommendations of credible loading manuals) or manufacturer information.
I load almost the same thing you have listed. Have you checked your wad guide fingers-----and inside of hull right at the crimp roll for little de-laminations? Sounds like maybe the over powder cup might be getting snagged (deformed) and not sealing tightly.
I also use some CBs wads (TGT) with no problems, actually can't tell any difference between CBs & genuine Rem. Did have similar problem with DR products so went back to Rems. and CBs. Ross Puls
I also use some CBs wads (TGT) with no problems, actually can't tell any difference between CBs & genuine Rem. Did have similar problem with DR products so went back to Rems. and CBs. Ross Puls
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If all things are the same, as far as components and hulls, I would say it is the seal of the shot cup. As mentioned above, it will escalate the problem if you use a big bore barrel. I had the same experience, when I cut a shell open to find that the shot cup seal to the powder was in fact folded on some. On wad insertion, it was catching slightly in the wad holder. You could actually see this on the outside of the hull, by seeing a small bulge in the hull. This seemed to happen to the more closed burnt hulls.
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Wad guide issue. Replace it now!!
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NOBLE SPORT PRIMERS!!!!!!! I had the same results with that load. Some folks have great results with those primers. Others don't. Some had good results in the past, now don't. That makes me think there are serious consistency problems with those primers. The fact that you ran into this problem mid-lot is a mystery.
BTW - I changed primers and my problems went away.
BTW - I changed primers and my problems went away.
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Had the same problem with those primers, when I put them in the tray there would be 4-6 that didn't look sealed , almost looked like they had been fired already. Well I loaded them up and tried them and about 5-6 a hundred went pop! So I put another tray in, same thing 5-6 looked unsealed where the primer meets the powder, so we took those out. the rest were fine. loaded those and they went pop! Took them back and the store told me they have been having some complaints as well.
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"Suddenly my reloads are going POOF."
How often? 1 in 5? 1 in 10? 1 in 25?
The reason is not enough powder burn. Why?
You can speculate and switch things at random and maybe stumble on the answer, or maybe the problem will just go away. But if you want to KNOW, the only way to find out is to dissect enough loaded rounds to be certain you would have included a poofer.
I would could open a shell, dump the shot, pull the wad with needlenose pliers and examine it for having been cocked or a nicked powder skirt. I'd weigh the powder charge and record the value. I'd pick up another round and repeat until I found a mechanical flaw. All I'd have paid for that information would be 30 minutes of my time and a couple handsfull of hulls. But I'd either know what was causing the poofer or at least know that I had examined everything I could test for.
If the drops are consistent and the wads OK, all that's left in the equation is the primer; change it.
I've wrestled with 2 tricky light powder drop instances. The first turned out to be insufficient charge bar travel; just enough to drop 1 in 10 light. The second was with E3 powder and powder baffles. I never understood exactly why, but having 2 different styles of baffle to try, as well as no baffle at all, I determined that the only way to avoid 1 bad drop in 1,000 was with no baffle at all.
How often? 1 in 5? 1 in 10? 1 in 25?
The reason is not enough powder burn. Why?
You can speculate and switch things at random and maybe stumble on the answer, or maybe the problem will just go away. But if you want to KNOW, the only way to find out is to dissect enough loaded rounds to be certain you would have included a poofer.
I would could open a shell, dump the shot, pull the wad with needlenose pliers and examine it for having been cocked or a nicked powder skirt. I'd weigh the powder charge and record the value. I'd pick up another round and repeat until I found a mechanical flaw. All I'd have paid for that information would be 30 minutes of my time and a couple handsfull of hulls. But I'd either know what was causing the poofer or at least know that I had examined everything I could test for.
If the drops are consistent and the wads OK, all that's left in the equation is the primer; change it.
I've wrestled with 2 tricky light powder drop instances. The first turned out to be insufficient charge bar travel; just enough to drop 1 in 10 light. The second was with E3 powder and powder baffles. I never understood exactly why, but having 2 different styles of baffle to try, as well as no baffle at all, I determined that the only way to avoid 1 bad drop in 1,000 was with no baffle at all.
I had the same trouble on cold weather with claydot and noble sports, but I think it was mostly bad batch of primers. Had trouble with about 7 boxes of reloads. Some weren't even firing primer. Did change wad guide and upped powder to 17.3 grains had been around 15.7. Powder was sticking in tube some. Made sure to tap on it ever so often. A lot was my mistakes but have had no trouble since, I sure was getting a lot of comments on my reloading abilities . Learned a lot. Ken U
I had a similar experience to hoot619, mine was with Clays-Noble Sports-& cool temps (35-40 degrees in Ga), went back to my usual Rem. 209s & problem went away. Also tried same combo with 700X & Promo with no problems, maybe NS primers just don't like certain powders in cooler temps. Never had a dud just odd sounding & soft recoil. Ross Puls
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I do not want to start an argument about how good Promo powder is but I can tell when someone on our squad it shooting it. Sometimes those shells never sound the same when they go off. I guess some forget to shake the bottle before they put it in the powder bottle on the loader. Never had a problem with Red or Green dot.
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My guess is inconsistent powder drops.
Do what Mike Campbell was suggesting - cut open a box or so of shells and weigh the powedr drops and check the wad condition.
Alos tell us the make of reloader you are using - it will help with the trouble shooting if you do actually have a drop problem.
Do what Mike Campbell was suggesting - cut open a box or so of shells and weigh the powedr drops and check the wad condition.
Alos tell us the make of reloader you are using - it will help with the trouble shooting if you do actually have a drop problem.
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