Rifleguy, I`ve reloaded rifle ammo for many years. I used to shoot NRA highpower matches. Get a couple of reloading manuals, read them , after you read them, read em again! As already stated get help from an experienced reloader!
And as a side note do not get into the HOTTER the BETTER mind set, it aint necessarily so.
I've been loading rifle & pistol for over 40 years, and really enjoy it. I agree with ol 12, best idea is to have an experienced person lead you through it, the same as with shotshell loading. It's simple, but there are some pitfalls, and some simple tips will save you grief (e.g. if you drop powder through a measure, small-kernel powders like ball and the new short-cut "SC" powders are far better than the old IMR standbys like 4350.) The reloading manuals from Speer, Nosler & Hornady all have very good introductory chapters on the basics. Occasionally a posted load will be inaccurate due to a typo, so I always try to have 2 manuals that agree on a load, before using it. Tom's absolutely right, try to stay with published data. You almost can't blow up a Rem 700 rifle, but you can set back recoil lugs & ruin the headspace with +P loads. Phil E
thanks, I am going to start tonight. I have read and reread the speers manual and i have tediously searched the internet i plan on starting with the 308 or 30 06. i am going to test them through remington 700s and have no intention of loading "hot" loads. I just want to have nice acurate loads that will keep the cost down. I have bought hornady v max bullets and hodgdon varget,benchrest powders as they were listed on hodgdons web page and the speers manual as powders to be used with the bullet weight+casing combos i plan on shooting.
Remington uses 37 grains of 3031 powder and a 168 grain hollow point boat tail bullet to test the accuracy of their target 308 rifles. This is a mild load and the test target is at 100 yards. Start with light loads and work your way up until you find the one that the rifle likes. HMB
Great advice above! Read the loading manuals and don't deviate. Manuals are great but learning the do's and dont's from an experienced metallic guy that knows his stuff is priceless also! Squeezin every bit of accuracy out of a hunting rifle is fun too! Anyone that gets impatient with shotshell loading, should stay away from metallic cartridge loading, two totally different animals!
One such old timer advised my to try lanolin for lubing cases, after switching to that, never had a stuck case. Hap
If you buy and reload new factory brass. Like, new brass, never been reloaded, nor shot through a rifle. Do a complete full resize of these, from the begining. I didn't one time and had a mell of a hess. Had to whap out the bullet with a bullet puller and completely resize them. This was when I first started reloading rifle. This is just my $.02 worth of letting you know something that may not be in the books. New brass, do a complete resize on em after you have lubed them from the get go. Then once they have been fired, providing you have fired them through a bolt action, you only have to resize the neck of the cartradge. But do read the books!!! But take this advice on new brass. If you buy new factory ready made rounds and fire them through the bolt action then you only need to resize the neck. And you say you are using a Remington 700. No problem, you will have a chamber fit shell after it has been fired. Remember only resize the neck on these. Again, the new shells never loaded need to be completely resized just the one time. After that then just do a neck size on em. New factiry ready mades after they have been fired only need the neck resized.
But if you are shooting a Semi Auto, a Pump Action, a Lever Action. You must completely resize the brass each and every time. It makes for less possible jamming if this is done. Not to mention the fun in reloading your own makes for a nice afternoon! Keep shootin straight!!! Rich.(inPeoria,Az.)
I just loaded 10 30-06 rounds last night. I followed the speers manual and the hodgdon site exactly. 168gr hpmatch 44gr of benchmark powder and winchester large rifle primers. I had no problems or spilled powder. Now for the primers what type should I use in which casings? and what is better the press's priming arm or the hand held dispenser it came with?
Unless I'm running off a big batch on the Dillon progressive, I prefer to prime with the press's priming arm, and 100-primer tubes. It's quicker for me, and with practice I have a very good "feel" of when it seats. I use this even for serious target loads. Many swear by the hand-held pistol-type primer devices, due to the very sensitive feel they give you. The trick is, you want to be able to feel the primer as it fully seats & bottoms. As you repeatedly load cases, your primer pockets may get dirty, affecting the feel of the seating primer. Then you may want to invest in a small, cheap primer-pocket reamer, to clean out the pocket. Rich's advice on sizing is exactly right. I'd add that when you load for hunting, either full-length size or test-chamber each round (safely at the range) before you go hunting. This is simply to be sure all will function, so as not to ruin your hunt. A simple $20 Rem 700 bolt-disassembly tool (mine's by Sinclair) enables you to quickly pull the firing pin from the bolt, so you can safely function-test ammo at home. As to primers, the standard large rifle's pretty much interchange, in all cases. That's part of the "fun" of accuracy rifle loading, switching primers to watch the effect on accuracy. My accuracy standard is Federal Gold Medal Match GM210M. But Fed, Rem, Win & CCI all make a variety of primers. Forget magnum primers in 308 & '06, unless your load manual specifies them for a load. You've got a wonderful bullet there. Another that's nearly as good and cheaper is the Sierra 165 PSP #2145, try it too. The '06 and 308 are perfect calibers to start with, they're very easy to load, forgiving, accurate, and have a huge variety of bullets. Though most 308's & '06's seem to prefer heavier bullets 165-180 gr, some of my '06's have shot real well with light 125-130's. Phil E
I have been using the benchmark in the 308 but i am going to try the varget. I am woundering what the importance of the twist rate (i assume its the barrel twist rate) is on the a-max bullets by hornaday. and thanks for the primer info Phil.
RifleGuy.....(2) hints to start out that are not in mostreloading manuals:1)you can get too much lubricant on the neck and shoulder of a case that causes the head space of the case to be too short. The loaded shell will be too loose in the chamber and may cause case rupture or even misfires. So, after fireforming your cases from factory shells, besure to lubricate the neck and shoulder very sparingly, then back the die off about a half turn, resize, and keep trying the case in the gun and turning the die down incrementally until you just feel it chamber easily. then lock the die. It will be set correctly for THAT rifle.2) for small caliber necks, such as 22 or 20 , learn how to outside neck turn. It's very difficult to seat bullets into small diameter necks perfectly in-line because the brass doesn't give or stretch as easily as larger diameter necks and the bullets have a tendancy to "cock" as they enter the case neck during the seating step. Or, you can buy benchrest dies from Redding,RCBS, or HART Precision that use collet type inserts that only size the necks partially so that the bullet seating becomes more accurate. Tom B
Yes, "twist rate" is barrel twist rate. The basic rule of thumb is that generally as you go to heavier (longer) bullets, you need a tighter twist (e.g. 1-turn-in-8", written as 1-8 twist, is tighter than 1-10 twist,) to stabilize the bullet. Best way to find what twist a given bullet was designed for, at a given velocity, is to call/e-mail the bullet maker & ask them. Phil E