Trapshooters Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I can't shoot, I was thinking about having my gun reblued. My question is. do I need to strip my receiver and trigger before sending my parts in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I'm basing my answer on when you say 'strip my receiver' you're referring to removing the existing blue.
Depends on how you're going about it.

In my case I took it to the gunsmith completely assembled - he disassembled it, prepped it, blued it and reassembled it.
If it's a case where you know someone with a blueing setup and you're doing the prep work - then yes you'll want to remove the blueing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm basing my answer on when you say 'strip my receiver' you're referring to removing the existing blue.
Depends on how you're going about it.

In my case I took it to the gunsmith completely assembled - he disassembled it, prepped it, blued it and reassembled it.
If it's a case where you know someone with a blueing setup and you're doing the prep work - then yes you'll want to remove the blueing.
I guess I should have said disassemble. I'll call Glenrock and see what they say.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,372 Posts
If you strip your own metal and are good at polishing Glenrock Blue will run the prepped metal through its famous 10 tank process for about 100 bucks. They will do their great master grade 2000 grit polish with absolutely no waves or dishing for about 700 bucks but man, I tell you it will look like a million bucks, and when you get it back ,and you won't feel the 700 bucks gone from your checkbook at all once you feast you eyes on their master craftsmanship. I have had factory Colt royal reblue done in the 80's on my mint pythons and series gold cups and factory done complete refurbish on my lightly used Dan Wesson's with complete reblues done in the early 80's before making them safe queens. I freely admit they are nice but the beautiful Glennrock blue is a much deeper black, and you'll find youself falling into the deep finish and will be very careful not to spoil it by careless handling.
Aloha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,153 Posts
Make sure you have any engraving/markings redone. The bluing will wash it out if you don't.
I have been trying for two days to figure out what you are trying to say here? Because the orginal bluing is only a few millionths of an inch thick. Removing the bluing the bluing a quick dip in a mild acid is not going to remove enough to see or measure and rebluing is not going to change anything. Gold and even silver are not effected by the stripping and bluing process, so saying that the bluing will washout true engraving and inlays just doesn't make sense.

Now if you are saying that the the lightly done laser engraving or chemically etched markings that some makers use are going to disappear I can agree to that. But doesn't apply to stamped letters and numbers or cut engraving.

If you want to say that a ham handed polisher will pull or remove engraving, that may also compute. But someone that understands how a little light polishing after a quick acid wash will restore the finish to factory. Even there with the possibility that a ham handed polisher can do immense damage the washing out statement barely computes!

Al
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
933 Posts
All the engraved marking on the gun should be re engraved. Otherwise it looks like crap. All marking meaning make,model,serial number, patent, proof markings etc. A cheap low budget reblue is just a dip and polish. I had a model 21 reblued. $100 extra to engrave all markings barrel and receiver. Usually a gun needs to be stripped of the blue. THEN it needs to be polished. This polishing will affect your engraving certainly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,153 Posts
All the engraved marking on the gun should be re engraved. Otherwise it looks like crap. All marking meaning make,model,serial number, patent, proof markings etc. A cheap low budget reblue is just a dip and polish. I had a model 21 reblued. $100 extra to engrave all markings barrel and receiver. Usually a gun needs to be stripped of the blue. THEN it needs to be polished. This polishing will affect your engraving certainly.
If the gunsmith has a clue and is just rebluing honest wear and not neglect, it is not difficult to have something reblued being called "new in the box condition!".

I don't know an engraver that I would trust that isn't years behind on first time engraving work and those guys and gals charge two to three times more for retouching someone else's work. The simplest explanation they give is that every engraver has their own idea of thickness of the chisel and what the cutting point should be and the least variation in either is going to look like a turd.

But then again getting the opportunity to revisit rebluing on something that was done 40+ years ago and seeing the evolution of what was acceptable back then to what that samejob is going to be today. Was very educational.
 
  • Like
Reactions: canyonman

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
I have a dumb question. When a chrome lined barrel, such as a Perazzi, is reblued, does the bluing effect the chrome lining and blue it too? Told you it was dumb, but I just don’t know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,153 Posts
I have a dumb question. When a chrome lined barrel, such as a Perazzi, is reblued, does the bluing effect the chrome lining and blue it too? Told you it was dumb, but I just don’t know.
Not a dumb question at all.

No the bluing will not effect the hard chrome lining.

A quick acid wash to remove the old bluing will not hurt it either. Although long term exposure can and does, think about motorcycle battery covers where long exposure to battery fumes will destroy the plating and even the part.

But unless you are talking about silver soldered barrels the process for bluing soft soldered barrels is not applied to the inside or hard chromed lining. Hot blue is a full immersion bath and it doesn't have the chemical properties or process to effect the hard chrome.

Al
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8708

·
Krieghoff K80
Joined
·
2,488 Posts
I have a dumb question. When a chrome lined barrel, such as a Perazzi, is reblued, does the bluing effect the chrome lining and blue it too? Told you it was dumb, but I just don’t know.
Perazzi barrels are not chrome lined. (Neither are K80s)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
933 Posts
Some guns have chrome chambers only. Some are highly polished and look like chromed, but they aren't. But no bluing should get into the barrel if they are plugged properly during the rebluing process.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,492 Posts
I never plugged the barrels. I have seen by other bluing that did plug barrels that due to rapid heat transfer barrels warp. I learned that from an old gunsmith 50 years. Showed me some that sent him warped barrels to straighted.
I drilled small holes in the under rib and lowered them in the solution starting at one end and very slowly lowered the other end. This let the high heat ( 205-220 *) to escape without building pressure between the barrels. Never had any come apart. Herters and later Brownell sold a solutin to neutralize the salts from the bluing. Just made sure I took extra time in the solution & rinse bath.
I always preferred Herters bluing salt bath over Brownell .
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
933 Posts
I never plugged the barrels. I have seen by other bluing that did plug barrels that due to rapid heat transfer barrels warp. I learned that from an old gunsmith 50 years. Showed me some that sent him warped barrels to straighted.
I drilled small holes in the under rib and lowered them in the solution starting at one end and very slowly lowered the other end. This let the high heat ( 205-220 *) to escape without building pressure between the barrels. Never had any come apart. Herters and later Brownell sold a solutin to neutralize the salts from the bluing. Just made sure I took extra time in the solution & rinse bath.
I always preferred Herters bluing salt bath over Brownell .
Where is the excessive heat in a rust blue?
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top