I guess I should have said disassemble. I'll call Glenrock and see what they say.I'm basing my answer on when you say 'strip my receiver' you're referring to removing the existing blue.
Depends on how you're going about it.
In my case I took it to the gunsmith completely assembled - he disassembled it, prepped it, blued it and reassembled it.
If it's a case where you know someone with a blueing setup and you're doing the prep work - then yes you'll want to remove the blueing.
I have been trying for two days to figure out what you are trying to say here? Because the orginal bluing is only a few millionths of an inch thick. Removing the bluing the bluing a quick dip in a mild acid is not going to remove enough to see or measure and rebluing is not going to change anything. Gold and even silver are not effected by the stripping and bluing process, so saying that the bluing will washout true engraving and inlays just doesn't make sense.Make sure you have any engraving/markings redone. The bluing will wash it out if you don't.
If the gunsmith has a clue and is just rebluing honest wear and not neglect, it is not difficult to have something reblued being called "new in the box condition!".All the engraved marking on the gun should be re engraved. Otherwise it looks like crap. All marking meaning make,model,serial number, patent, proof markings etc. A cheap low budget reblue is just a dip and polish. I had a model 21 reblued. $100 extra to engrave all markings barrel and receiver. Usually a gun needs to be stripped of the blue. THEN it needs to be polished. This polishing will affect your engraving certainly.
Not a dumb question at all.I have a dumb question. When a chrome lined barrel, such as a Perazzi, is reblued, does the bluing effect the chrome lining and blue it too? Told you it was dumb, but I just don’t know.
Where is the excessive heat in a rust blue?I never plugged the barrels. I have seen by other bluing that did plug barrels that due to rapid heat transfer barrels warp. I learned that from an old gunsmith 50 years. Showed me some that sent him warped barrels to straighted.
I drilled small holes in the under rib and lowered them in the solution starting at one end and very slowly lowered the other end. This let the high heat ( 205-220 *) to escape without building pressure between the barrels. Never had any come apart. Herters and later Brownell sold a solutin to neutralize the salts from the bluing. Just made sure I took extra time in the solution & rinse bath.
I always preferred Herters bluing salt bath over Brownell .