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Powder bushings are easy, they don't have to be knife edge but shot bushings do. Make sure you keep the entire circumference of the side that faces the shot reservoir exactly square and sharp, no rounding or shot will wedge between the bushing and frame as the bushing wipes across to cut off flow. I've seen several shot bushings ruined this way.

-Scot
 

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But for the fact that they are aluminum I would suggest a brake cylinder hone.
Unfortunately such a hone would probably "load up" with soft aluminum - and in any case hones are for polishing, not for significant removal of material.

On another point;
The (now OLD) Spolar videos show hornady style bushings with O rings around them.
Do they still do that ?
 

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I don’t load a lot of 20ga, but I wanted to go with a 3/4oz load and Lee doesn’t include a 3/4oz shot bushing with the Load All II so I took a piece of PEX plumbing tubing and inserted it into a 1 oz bushing. I adjusted the length of the insert until I got to 3/4.
 

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If you do this, no Dremels or drills. Use sandpaper and buff it A LITTLE, then check and do a little more until you are happy. Remember, you cant put the metal back. Its yours, experiment, knowing you may have to replace a part. Good luck and let us know how it comed out!
 

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When I loaded steel the throws were poor.

I learned to start with a bigger busing because they are cheap and I used short strips of lead tape to take up space and this worked better than I had dreamed.
 

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Aluminum shot bushings are soft and they will wear. Steel shot bushings will hold up better. P/W shot bushings are steel.
 
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