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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a new Delta Elite 10mm and was wondering what the best bang for the buck upgrades are for the home gunsmith. Already planning on a "drop in"-ish adjustable rear sight. Just looking for others opinions and warnings.

Thanks,
James Allen
 

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I'd leave it alone, put the extra money into a 45 that is a lot cheaper, and more comfortable to shoot. Blasting away with a 10 is painful and expensive.

Of course you can load it down, but, jus sayin......
 

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I'm no guru but I've hung around a few. Nix on the extended slide release, no purpose for it and it will jump up in recoil and lock your slide open with bullets still in the mag. Have a real gunsmith put your sights in, they will need some fitting and you want it to look good right, (and not leave the pistol at a inappropriate time)? I would go for a extra 40 SW barrel, recoil spring, and magazine so I could shoot the cheaper lower power ammo for fun and practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
.45 is ok... for girly-men. LOL. I've got other 1911's in .45 and .38 super. But I love the 10mm cartridge. I've got 'em loaded up to near 1300fps on a 180gr bullet shooting it out of my Glock 20 (with wolf barrel so I don't have that dreaded Glock bulge).

jm: I've got plenty of .22 target pistols but thanks for the offer.

James
 

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Golly, I thought you were asking a sincere question.....not trying to make a fashion statement. You should have just asked your alter ego what to pimp your new gun with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
221: I was kidding, I shoot em all. I love the 1911 .45's just as well but my other 1911's are not upgrade options. I knew what I was getting into with the 10mm. I was asking for opinions as to others' experiences with upgrades: ie. beavertails, adjustable sights, etc. And I've gotten several very good suggestions like having a smith put in the adjustable sight and experiences on the mag release.

James
 

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Just bought a new 22lr conversion unit from Kimber ($299 bucks) best money sent on a 45 . Put it on a Springfield and it shoots and works very well .
 

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delta elite? they don't make those anymore, do they? if not, don't do anything to yours: it's a collectible. and the more people who "home gunsmith" theirs, the more yours goes up in value. get a good, cheap .45, a brownells catalog and a dremel tool to satisfy your "drop in-ish" cravings. good luck with it
 

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Best bang for the buck is a Cylinder and Slide shop hammer/sear/ disconnector kit for $160.00 Warp speed.. and a well fitted barrel bushing $25.00
 

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You ask a simple question and the answers you get from folks who dont know how to read go from you bought a lousy gun,they dont make it anymore, wrong, you should have bought a BB gun, a barrel set,bushings,a partridge in a pear tree, etc.
You havnt told anyone how it shoots, how it works what if any problems exist, does it feed ammo,which ones work, make it a .22, no, no buy a new barrel convert it to a 40 cal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for your help everybody.

I've been reloading 10's for my Glock for a couple years now and definitely appreciate the power of the cartridge. I'm using a little below a max charge of Blue Dot under 180gr Ranier plated bullets out of the Speer manual for my fullhouse loads. From my Glock I haven't seen any overpressure signs. For my lighter loads I'm using Bullseye.

I was definitely looking for some suggestions to get the full potential out of my pistol.

James
 

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Things that will help you shoot the gun better include a prepped hammer/trigger, better sights front and rear, I like Bomar low mounts but they require cutting the slide, and if you are so inclined a match grade barrel with a fitted bushing and lugs lapped to fit your slide and the correct link. When you go to the expense of a new barrel and having it fit properly and then milling for the low mount sights you may as well just put all that into a new slide that is fit to your frame. Speaking of the frame, you will probably want a checkered fron strap to help you control that beast and a beavertail grip safety will keep the gun in your hand better. How much of this you want to take on personally depends on your confidence and experience in metal working.

Like most things, the sky is the limit with building 1911s so you need to balance your want list against your pocketbook.
 

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Sell it and buy a Kimber, the gun Colt wishes they'd have been but were too ignorant to listen to the customers. You'll blow more money on the Colt trying to make it into something that the Kimber already is right out of the box including being far more accurate. The 10mm is a good round but don't overdo it if you're reloading it. If you want a .44 magnum then buy a 44 magnum.
 

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Years ago I read that the 1911's dynamics were best suited to the .45 acp. That had something to do with the weight of the slide, pressure curve of the .45, and th weight of the hardball bullet. All other 1911's were compromises. I read that a long time ago, and likely didn't quite understand it then nor remember it acurately now. I do know that I love shooting my under 200 grain semi-wadcutters out of my slightly tuned Gold Cup.

I also had a 9 mm 1911, factory from Colt, and it shot "ok" and I never should have sold it...hear now that such is relatively rare?

Perhaps Mike aka BigBorePerrazi can elaborate and "accurize" my statement?
 

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The design concept was indeed for a 45 acp... but changes in metal.. and feed ramps.. and better.. not wartime production has made it an excellent platform for many calabers.. The 9mm is not a bad dog.. just a marginal one unless you lighten the slide up.. The 40 is an excellent choice.. as is the 357 Sig.. Having said all this..I have to agree.. a 45 acp with a 185/200 grain wadcutter in a properly fitted gun with a excellent trigger is just down right fun.. My 357 Sig 6" longslide is rigfht behind it.. and so soft to shoot..you'd think it was a bb gun..

On to the question from the past.. The Remington 1911.. I had a few in my hand at the grand..Most parts are made here..but responce.. even from my friends was very vague.. Slide fit was poor..trigger was fair..price is good.. And the new Kimbers are not the quality of the older Kimbers.. Still a great gun.. just I saw better effort in the earlier ones..
 

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I sent mine to Bill Wilson 15 years ago and had a Bomar rear right installed, stainless guide rod to replace the plastic BS, ejection port lowered and faired back, barrel and feed ramp throated and polished, ambi-safety, target trigger job and beavertail grip safety. I installed a S/A mag well and gold medallion S&W grips. Loads are the Hornady 155 gr XTP over 15 gr of AA #9.
claybrdr_2008_030343.jpg


claybrdr_2008_030344.jpg

 

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The above DE has obviously been used, and obviously if it has been used enough to wear the edges like it has then it must be set up up right for the owner. Other wise a gun like this wouldn't get shot very much.

10MM is expensive to shoot and you almost have to reload or you will never fire it enough to get good enough to justify even having it.. You've got to come up with cases from somewhere, and the best place for those is Starline.

My only addition to the above gun would be an extended Slide Lock. Somebody above said they pop up and cause malfunctions. I say BS.

Unless you have very big hands there is no way you can perform malfunction drills (IE failure to extract drill) in the alotted time of 5.5 sec without and extended slide release. You have to reposition your hand to lock the slide then reposition to drop the mag, then reposition to rack the slide. There just isn't enough time in 5.5 sec to do all this.

The SA mag well is a good idea too. Make finding the hole easier.

Make sure you keep all your stock parts with the gun so you can put them back on before you sell it. Nothing aftermarket you add to one of these guns will increase the resale value one cent. Remove all of it and sell the piece parts or transfer everything to the next gun!

Randy
 
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