[Chango2]

Curious what are the best points of constriction for doubles given that one has an OU. Right now, I am set up with an Invector Plus at ten and 20 points. (10/1000 and 20/1000) I am average in speed; take my time on second bird and it's still rising. Want something that will spot shoot reliably, but not have bird fly through pattern. Want to take second bird with a good "read", that is to know if I am ahead, high, low, behind. The chokes I've tried thus far are Carlson extended, and were labeled IC and Modified. I was considering going to Light Modified on first shot to Improved Modified on second shot, that is 15/1000 for first shot and 25/1000 on second.

I was thinking of ordering some of the angle port ported chokes for this fun and somewhat specialized game. Appreciate any input from those that have had a lot more experience in this game.

Thanks

 

[grnberetcj]

I shoot a Beretta 682 Gold E. I use Briley lt. mod for the 1st shot, mod for the 2nd.

It may depend how fast you shoot which chokes will be best. T&E time.

Curt

 

[zzt]

I shoot .019" and .032" because that is what my fixed chokes are. If I had interchangeable chokes I'd shoot 4 (.016") and 6 (.024"). The US equivalent is .015" and .025".

 

[ESMDHokie]

I shoot Mod and I/M, first and 2nd shot. That's for lack of a 2nd Mod Choke, I would try that.

Granted I'm a college student who has only shot trap for 3 years, but now I'm hooked.

Phil

 

[B682GX]

I have Briley extended choke tubes and for doubles, I use Skeet for the 1st bird & IM for the 2nd.

 

[Chango2]

So far sounds like I should "go" to about light modified/improved modified. Don't think I shoot fast enough to use skeet or ic on first shot...have had no problem with ic, but figure it leaves no room for error or a need to track slgihtly...appreciate advice thus far and like to hear more...

 

[wolfram]

First shot IC, second shot Mod and 1 Oz #8 for both shots. I get very positive breaks on both birds but wouldn't reccomend anything more open choked.

When shooting my 391 I just use the mod tube.

 

[hmb]

Skeet choke and 1 oz of 9s for the first shot, light recoil, big pattern with lots of pellets. Improved modified and 1 oz of 7 1/2s or 8s for the second shot. Tight enough to get a good read on your breaks. HMB

 

[racer]

I use .020 and .032 in my browning. If you want some fun, pattern that IC choke at 25-30 yards away and see what you get. You'll save it for skeet after that Dan

 

[lancelot]

I wish Phil Kiner would jump in on this thread. He wrote some excellent articles in Trap & Field on this subject a year or so ago, and also covers it well in his newest tape.

He basically says .020 and .030 are about right for the majority of us. He covered what 5 or 6 of the other top shooters used, and it turned out about the same. He states that he's pretty quick with the first shot and he, personally uses .015 for the first shot and would not think about anything less.

Ron Ireland

 

[Trap2]

Chango..... Like zzt, above, I shoot .020 and .032". This is the way my Perazzi DB-81 O/U barrel came from the factory. I have shot all different chokes for doubles over the years and have found that the .020/.032" does a better job, consistantly, than any of the others I have tried. Taking the first shot fairly quickly with the .020" just smokes it, and, no matter what anyone says, the second target is still a mid yardage handicap target, no matter how quickly you get to it. The .032" choke makes that second target turn to dust, as well. My feeling is that these two chokes help you become the best double shooter you can be by helping you see where you are breaking the targets. (Here we go again, Phil, with the reading your target breaks debate, but I just can't help myself). It just plain works best for me. I feel that any more open chokes tend to make you a lot more careless, and less precise shooter. Just my experience... Dan Thome (Trap2)

 

[Setterman]

.015 and .025, most birds missed on the second shot are because of a bad move, not choke, but you do need enough choke.

 

[Old Cowboy]

FWIW, I use .020"/.030",

John C. Saubak

 

[Neil Winston]

O.028 and 0.038 (stock Perazzi) have kept be (barely) in AA for 20 years, mostly. I've tried everything more open down to IC and Mod and it never got me a bird. Same with most shot weights and tonight I loaded one ounce for the first shot, more for the second, since, once again, nothing's worked better - but it's not nearly as much of a difference as the chokes.

Neil

 

[duckhunter331]

This may be a stupid question, but what do the numbers mean? I know they stand for a specific measurement, but what does that mean as in terms of the choke? If someone could make a chart of measurement to choke designations, that would be greatly appreciated.

Travis

 

[BARTMAN]

.000-CYLINDER
.005-SKEET
.010-IMPROVED CLY
.015-LT.MOD.
.020-MOD.
.025-IMP.MOD.
.030-LT.FULL
.035-FULL
.040-EXTRA FULL

 

[hmb]

.005 = skeet 1
.008 = skeet 2
.010 = improved cylinder
.015 = light modified
.020 = modified
.025 = improved modified
.030 = light full
.035 = full
.040 = extra full

The numbers stand for the difference between the bore diameter and the choke diameter, this is called choke constriction.

Example - bore .730, choke .700, constriction .030 = light full. HMB

 

[Trap2]

This is right from Briley's website. This should answer all your questions... Dan Thome (Trap2) Mash on the link above

 

[Smithy47]

Trap2, thanks for the link to the Briley chart. Thia was not my thread but appreciate the info also. Thanks! Bob

 

[ink ball]

I like .015 and .030. (LM and LF)