[grizquad]

Yes, I had to use some fine grit sandpaper to open up the tube. Make sure you read and follow the instructions on final fit and leaving a gap between the ram and the tube. Make sure you use the correct machine position when setting the gap or you can break the tube. Every once in awhile, I take the ram block out and sand it down to clean it up and make it work smoother. NO lube needed.

 

[Buzzj]

Try to keep the chain as loose as possible. Just tight enough for the ram to deposit the shell otherwise you can shear the roller pin. Two washers one on top of the other placed between the RAM and the plastic tube will give you a good separation while you tighten everything down. Remove the washers when done.

 

[Buzzj]

Also if you are using steel based hulls get a magnetic post or remove the magnet from the ram otherwise you will crush every hull.

 

[creeker]

I have a P/W lower feed assembly mod'd for my Spolar,using a Dillon shell feeder,the original P/W shell feeder had a motor freeze up,so that ended that.The magnetic shell seating post is a must have,IMHO.I use homemade Delrin shell feed rams for all my ga's,12,20.28 and .410,they all work perfectly.The OEM,P/W plastic shell feed tube is quite thick,but it is very brittle,indeed! many folks have cracked them,including me,so I went and mod'd that tube with Home Depot 1& 5/8th's ID.I use the same shell seating post that came with the P/W shell feeder,but I installed neodynmium magnets in the post.I use the same 12,ga seating post,for all of the ga's,it works fine.I have found that using all brass based shells,are more of a problem,than steel based hulls,as there is only the anvil in the brass based shell,for the magnet to pick up on?

 

[Buzzj]

One other thing, make sure all of the hulls don't have anything inside of them when you put them in the hopper. Awhile back I dumped a bunch of hulls into the hopper without checking. There was a spent primer inside a case which led to a loud crunch and the breaking of metal on the machine.