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Try adjusting the two little nylon screws that take up vertical slop on the drive rack that actuates the powder and shot bushing carriers. (they live at the base of the powder and shot hoppers, on the right side, between the hold down screws)If there's upward movement in the toothed rack, it can bind and cuse the problem you describe. In a worse case scenario it could cause one or both of the links on the upper actuating arms to break. PS: don't over tighten , just take up the slop.

best....mike
 

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If the shot is at the top of the pre-crimp before it goes to the crimp station I would suspect that your wad isn't down far enough. When you index the machine the shot will shake out of the shell.
 

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what likes to shoot said or you have the wrong wad like a once oz putting 1 1/8 of shot in it??
 

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Mine has done this from day one with any wad.

The table indexes pretty harsh and if I put a slight drag on it with my left hand it's perfect.

My motto is ....If a PW works leave it alone.



Regards.../.Gerald
 

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My 800 B lately started to throw shot upon indexing. Spoke to PW rep. at Pa State Shoot who recommded using a wide rubber band around the turret, which will partially stop the 'snap' when indexing. I'm sure mine needs a gear or adjustment after 30 years; but this method worked for me. Hope this helps.

David Berman
 

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Could be several things that come to mind:

1. Something loose in the turret, causing jerking motions<BR>
2. Jerking the operating handle<BR>
3. As mentioned above, wrong wad for the load, or wrong shot bushing for wad<BR>
4. Too much powder for the wad<BR>
5. Too much pre-crimp<BR>
6. Wad seated too high<BR>

Pre-crimp no more that 45º, but I recommend much less. Let the final-crimp station close and seal the shell. If at the pre-crimp station you see shot "pushed-up" towards the top of the hull's crimp, then (1) you have too much shot in the wad's shot cup, and/or are using either the wrong wad or shot charge.





WW
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still having the BB problem. Used all the suggestions THANKS. It seems that when the shell ejects the dies shake and this is when the BB's come out. Could it be a week ejection spring,or bad die. Some of the shells seem to eject with less presure on the handle.
 

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Clean the inside of the dies and put a light coat of oil on the inside. I put a little 3in1 oil on a woolie brush and it oils the inside of the die as the machine operates. This will help the shell ejection to become smoother.

Bill
 

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I shoot some One Shot case lube on the Woolly at station one, every few hundred rounds. This seems to help the case drop out smoother on the last station. I've tried other lubes, but the One Shot Case lube seems to works the best.
 

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What type shells are you loading? Steel head cases size and eject hard.

Take about 15 empties and apply a little lube on bases and run them thru as a group.

If you could post a short video of you loading it would help.
 

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<blockquote><I>"Some of the shells seem to eject with less presure on the handle."</i></blockquote>The amount of pressure required to eject a hull from a PW is directly related to the amount pressure that was needed to stuff it into the resizing ring of the die in the first place.

PW loaders were not designed as resizing machines and prefer brass bases to steel ones. A 12 gauge hull with base diameter after firing of greater than ".810 inches will be hard to stuff into the die and tough to get out. Forcing them out at the end will cause the whole loader to shake if it's not firmly bolted to a heavy bench with a thick top.

I've found that when I run brass based hulls, some of them POP into the sizing dies and bounce the turret and anything in it. This has caused some shot to bounce out of the uncrimped hulls. The same thing sometimes happens if I try to run a hull that's too tight a fit for the sizing ring in the dies.

I think you can address your problem (if you're loading 12 gauge steel base hulls) by investing in a Mec "SuperSizer" and resizing your hulls to .806"-.807" before you run them through the loader. It's easier on the press and the loading goes smoother as well.

Keller
 

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When I first got mine it was doing the same thing. After I polished the inside of the resizers with a honing material it quit, just the ledge obviously. This takes off a minimal amount of material and allows the brass to slide out easier. It is chromed so use your own judgment on how much to polish but you can get aggressive as it is chrome. I used a drill and a home made polishing swab, going from medium to fine metal polish.

PW's are great for you fixing what the factory should have taken care of.
 

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Fellows, THATIS WHY THEY MAKE A BRUSH HOLDER FOR PW.it will clean the dies all the time you are loading.I use a 10 guage brush in mine instead of a 12 and I also wrap it with gause so I can put a light coating of oil on it once in a while. Some of my shells fall out on the last station before the punch hits them. You can make a brush holder if you want to by taking a piece of steel straping and bending it in an L,drill a hole in it and put a brush in it with a nut on top.Make sure it is long enough to clean the bottom of the die.I used a self tapping skrew to mount it to the loader and it cleans the die on the down stroke every time I pull yhe handel down.
 

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Limpy100 : I think it is the roughness of the sizers that causes it not a build up. Keeping them clean would help but if you polish them you would not have to worry about keeping them clean.

CM
 

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I've never had a die (sizer) get dirty enough to cause hull fit problems. What kinds of hulls do you guys load?

There are only 2 things that account for tight hulls in my 900s...<UL><LI>bases (mostly steel) that have expanded beyond .809"-.810" at the upper edge in a gun with a big chamber; they are only tight in the sizing ring<LI>AA hulls that have seen more than 4 reloads; some expand around the middle above the base and get snug in my dies. Then it's time to pitch them.</UL>

Keller
 

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Claymuncher; The dies can be smothed out with a brake hone. They have a flexable shaft and fit down in them on number 1 station.After honning clean and lube lightly.Don't run your drill to fast when honning.
 

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Claymuncher; The dies can be smothed out with a brake hone. They have a flexable shaft and fit down in them on number 1 station.After honning clean and lube lightly.Don't run your drill to fast when honning.
 

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Spray the BRASS on 10-12 clean hulls all lined up with WD-40 or Rem Oil and load them.

This will certainly tell you if it's the sizing of the brass.

I have NEVER had a problem like this in over 30 years.

Chances are the hull could have been shot in a larger diameter chamber gun...

WW
 
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