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I had a 2000P doing the samething. It was NIB and I even sent it back to the factory and it still did the samething. I sold the loader and I'm glad I did.
 

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The plastic wad guide is probably not seated tightly or needs to be replaced! The easiest way to fix is to unscrew the spring loaded piece that is holding the was guide in place while holding the wad guide. The manual says to use an allan wrench and unscrew from the base, but the way I describe is 100 times easier. Bruce
 

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Already emailed response.


You DO NOT have to remove the underside screws change the wad guide. Simply hold the aluminum underside, and unscrew the top black metal piece above the red wad guide finger.
 

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I have found out the hard way that you cannot carefully examine the wad guide unless it is removed. It can look good in the machine and still be broken.

Pat Ireland
 

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the wad carrier itself might be damaged- this happens sometimes when you are off and the ram hits the carrier ( I might be using the wrong term)

the part actually breaks but you cant see it-- if you look though you will see the top dips down

regards from Iowa

Gene
 

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Thanks, Rich.

Here's one thing you shouldn't do with a wad guide...

I had a couple of the 12 gauge in my hand while talking to someone on the phone. I stuck my pinkie into one the guides and then, like an idiot, tried to pull it out. OUCH! I had to cut the damn thing with side cutters to prevent further damage.

Damn good thing they make them out of RED plastic.

Now, where is that Chinese handcuff, anyway! ;-)

Whiz

PS: You can "spin" the black metal sleeve around to get a visual on if all the fingers are there and not broken...
 

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But Whiz, all the fingers can be good but the guide can be broken at the top. This cannot be seen by rotating the guide. Trust me, this can happen and it will cock wads.

I have learned that on my PW if I replace a part that is not broken, and leave in the broken part, it will not solve my problem. I have proved this to myself several times.

Pat Ireland
 

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Lucky you didnt have to go to the hospital to have that cut off- lol

My father in law , when we were first married- was playing with a set of handcuffs I had from work and my youngest son( then 4 or 5) cuffed him-- of course I was deployed- no one bothered to look to make sure they knew where a key was

so kitchen chair and father in law took a trip to the local police station

regards from Iowa

Gene
 

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You can get a metal bushing from PW that goes into the wad guide which lowers the guide @ 1/32". This allows most wads to go in straight. On my PW, I had to put 2 of these in to get 12SO's to work.

charley
 

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grunt

I think the bushing (looks like a large, thin washer) holds down the wad fingers so the wad sits lower in the arm and does not hit on the ram when it comes across.

ksshooter
 

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I used Claybusters for about 5 - 6 years W/O any problem. Then Caybuster changed hands and I started having occassional bloooers
mthat I blamed on cocked wads (I use a PW 950 Elite)Then I bit the bullet and paid 50% more for Winchester wads and the problem disappeared. Have shot about 20,000 loads with Winchester wads and the blooper problem is history. I assumed Claybuster's quality went to pot with the new owners. Am currently using Downrange wads,because they are cheaper than Winchester W/O any problems.

Dennis.
 

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ksshooter

"I think the bushing (looks like a large, thin washer) holds down the wad fingers so the wad sits lower in the arm and does not hit on the ram when it comes across."

Wouldn't it be easier to screw the wad ram up a 1/32" than to tear it apart an MM it. JMO but it always worked for me.

Bob Lawless
 
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