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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for a a little help with a small issue with a PW 2000. I just bought the press from here on TS.com. I am very familiar with the indexing on the 800 series, but I am new to the 2000. My issue is that as the hulls are indexing from the first station to the second the top of the hull is barely hitting the primer knockout pin.
I checked and made sure that the hull is not seated to deep. I checked to make sure that the primer punch was not seated to low. It is bottomed out in the tool head, and the knock out pin is coming out just below the sizing die.
Then I thought that maybe it was indexing to slow. I checked all of the indexing components. The Grivory cyliner is new so the index holes look great. I replaced the the index post roller and bearing with new units. It appears to be indexing correctly.
Does anyone have any ideas why the hulls are hitting the knock out pin? I use STS and Nitro hulls. It does not hit hard enough to stop anything, just folds the top edge of the hull over a bit.

Thanks for the help,

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the information. My primer punch is 5.190 total length. It sits 4.407 beneath the tool head. It is very close to clearing the hull. In fact the hull is actually just hitting the very bottom of the primer punch as it passes underneath.
I think that I am going to cut down the top of the primer punch assembly in the lathe and move the primer punch up just enough to clear the hull but still knock the primers out. Has anyone else had to do this with there PW2000?

Thanks, Joe
 

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(1) make certain the knockout pin has not unscrewed some in the knockout shaft.

(2) Raise the konckout shaft/primer decapping pin assembly.

Decapping pin should only protrude below the hull 1/8" - 1/4".

WW
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice Jim. The knock out pin is tight. I checked it against a new spare that I had and they are the same length. The pin sticks out just a hair over an 1/8th. I think I need to cut down the whole assembly just a few thousands.
Is there any way to start the index earlier on a 2000 like you can do with an 800? Also is there an adjustment to the index detent that might be too tight like the upper portion of the cylinder on an 800?

Thanks, Joe
 

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Joe: Raise it up a bit.

Also, it should take you about 3 seconds to operation the handle back and forth. If you are jerking it towards you, operating it too fast, then you are indexing the turret too fast, and you'll get BOTH the decapping shaft problem AND tilted wads.

Also, the center shaft is was generates the indexing. If that shaft was "played up" height and degree of rotation, then indexing will occur wrongly; too soon or too late.

Look up on the underside of the top toolhead and (1) make sure the two Allenhead set-screws are tight, (2) the center shaft's groove is EXACTLY pointing to station #2, the depriming station, or 6 o'clock position, and (3) there is a roll-pin in place on the top of the shaft going through the toolhead's bottom. I hope no one has "worked on/changed" the center shaft without consulting with the factory or me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again Jim. I will check the center shaft. I know that the unit went back to PW for turret replacement last year. The previous owner said that he sent it in due to an indexing problem that is when they changed the turret and said that the index holes were worn.

When you say raise it up do you mean to raise the stop in the index pad hole? I will check the center shaft. I now understand that if that shaft was set to high in the tool head that the indexing would start later. Same affect as changing the index pad height on an 800. Are there any printed procedures for checking the position of the center shaft?

Thanks, Joe
 

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I had the same issue with my 900 (an older 2000). The one I purchased off Ebay... long story... was an older one and I wanted to upgrade it to use the die removal system, like urs has. Only thing was it was an older model and the center shaft and turret had to be switched out. The factory has "Shims" they use to precisely set the placement of the new center shaft with respect to the horizontal lever bar that is attaeched to the handle. this spacing depends on the thickness of the lever shaft.

I worked with Tonya over the phone and she was able to help me get my de-rpiming pin indexing issue adjusted better. Great people to work with, and yes she knew I purchased it use on Ebay.

Once you get it adjusted THEN you will have to drill w 1/8" hole and install the roll pin to keep it in that location.
 

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I had the same issue with my 900 (an older 2000). The one I purchased off Ebay... long story... was an older one and I wanted to upgrade it to use the die removal system, like urs has. Only thing was it was an older model and the center shaft and turret had to be switched out. The factory has "Shims" they use to precisely set the placement of the new center shaft with respect to the horizontal lever bar that is attaeched to the handle. this spacing depends on the thickness of the lever shaft.

I worked with Tonya over the phone and she was able to help me get my de-rpiming pin indexing issue adjusted better. Great people to work with, and yes she knew I purchased it use on Ebay.

Once you get it adjusted THEN you will have to drill w 1/8" hole and install the roll pin to keep it in that location.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is the roll pin in the index bar supposed to be flush Or sticking out a bit?

Thanks, Joe
 

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It doesn't matter if it sticks out. You simply want it to go through the toolhead and into the center shaft to secure the center shaft's position.

WW

Addendum: I just got a call from a good customer who said that my instructions were not correct. He is correct. The main center shaf't long groove point at about 4 o'clock, not 6 o'clock as I stated above.

I apologuze for that, but I don't have a Platinum here to check.

He also stated that the bottom of the shaft's groove, the "bottom of the dog-leg" points to about where the shell insertion state (Station #1) is.

Therefore, as you adjust the replacemnet center shaft, you will have to "play" with its positioning go get the proper rotation. Once you have achieved that positioning, then you drill the hole for the roll-pin and call it good.

Whiz
 
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