Don't forget that putting non Remington primers in REM hulls can result in the primer standing up on the first loading. Other primers are slightly taller but more important, they are more square in profile than a REM primer.
Shoot'em as long as there is not visible light under the primer. I used to get numerous proud Winchester and CCI primers when I loaded them in once fired hulls. As long as I couldn't slip a Post-IT under the primer, I shot'em. The cause is usually a mismatch between the shape of the primer at the flange and the profile of the hull base at the primer tunnel. One firing will usually do what no amount of pressure with a loader can. The problem doesn't happen a second time.
I now pre-prime once fired Remington hulls with Nobel and CCI primers because they are both worse than Winchesters for not seating well in a PW press the first time.
Using the guns breech face as anvil to drive primers in that you were unsuccessful in doing with the reloader is about as asinine an idea as I've heard yet. I now know why some of the used guns I look at have the appearance they were worked on by 3rd graders. Brilliant I tell yeah.
You act so big behind your screen name. ID yourself and then run your mouth.
The issue is high primers, not who says what or sho cares to identify themselves.
If there are high primers...... there is an issue that needs to be identified and corrected...... Is it a problem chambring them? Will they go off if you try? If you have to ask the question (and it is a good question from someone with concerns) then the standard common sense answer is if you are not sure of the ammunition don't mess with it. Find and correct the problem and only use the rounds you are sure of. Hulls are cheap, there are plenty of cutters available to enable one to salvage powder, shot and even wads...... There is a response above from Curly, send him a pm, go to SGW and post the question on the reloading forum, you will obtain good answers to a good question......... Larry
I've loaded 10s of thousands of Remington hulls on MEC reloaders with non-Remington primers, and have never had this issue. Now the PW 800+ I had for a short time was a different story, never could get them to seat flush, one of the reasons I got rid of it.
Matt, you're a tad bit wrong on this issue. You can close a gun many times on shells with proud primers. I'm not sure it is a brilliant idea with an auto. Neverthless, most O/U's have a bit of headspace that will easily accomodate that protrusion. For those that don't and have soft breech faces an expensive visit to Laibs or Giacomo may be in the future.
<blockquote><I>"I open my vise until the shell drops thru and hangs by the rim, then I gently press the primer home with the wooden end of a hammer."</i></blockquote>If the primer flange and the hole profile don't match, you can push on them all day and all that will happen is you'll get a dished base.
But somehow, your putting a live shell in a vise and pushing on the primer with a hammer handle makes me want to be in a different room when you do that.
There is proud, and there is not set in the primer pocket because something needs to be adjusted. If the primers are proud of the face of the base, due to the difference in profiles between the new primer and the primer pocket, that may be a case where it is okay to close the gun on them. In my MEC 9000, this occasionally occurs when I am loading Cheddite primers into once fired Remington hulls. The primer isn't hanging out of the pocket, it is just a whisker from seated as deeply as the Remington primer was. If I were to dick around with the loader, I could probably adjust it so I could apply enough pressure to seat the primer fully, but they aren't out far enough to create a problem when I close the gun. When the reloaded shell is fired, it creates enough pressure to remold the front of the primer pocket, and seats the primer fully. After that, you can load those shells a few more times.
It is a judgement call on your part, but please err on the side of caution!