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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any thoughts on PPU brass? I'm reloading some 6.5 Carcano PPU brass and the cases keep getting stuck in the die. The die has been cleaned and lubed, using a Lee universal #2 shell holder. The cases have all been lubed with One Shot. I'm not using any significant force, but on the down stroke of the ram, the shell holder is peeling the rim of the case and causing the case to get stuck in the die.
 

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I have PPU brass in 204 Ruger, 22-250, 25-06 and 9.3 X 62 and love it. Good brass. As jk80 noted, you can't go wrong with Imperial sizing wax. I also like the Lee lube that comes in a white tube. A little of either goes a long way. If you stick a case with either of those, you have a die problem.

Good luck and all the best.
 

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STP on an ink pad.
 

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Have to agree with the previous posts about Imperial Sizing Die Wax for small quantities of brass. However, if doing large batches, I recommend making a homemade lanolin spray on lube and using that.

Don
 

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Any thoughts on PPU brass? I'm reloading some 6.5 Carcano PPU brass and the cases keep getting stuck in the die. The die has been cleaned and lubed, using a Lee universal #2 shell holder. The cases have all been lubed with One Shot. I'm not using any significant force, but on the down stroke of the ram, the shell holder is peeling the rim of the case and causing the case to get stuck in the die.
I have used PPU brass and RCBS case lube with no problems.
 

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Steeven,
Fluid Film is what I use for all resizing and case forming. It is a combination of lanolin and beeswax. It is the best lube I have found to keep bump length consistent on 30 and 40º shouldered cases. A little goes a long ways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try imperial sizing lube. A little go's a long way. That said, ppu brass isn't the best. A lot of 5.56 I was given was good to load for blaster ammo. A LOT of primer flash holes of center so bad it would screw up the decap pin. 9mm not much better.
Thanks, Don also advice me to get a decent lube , seems that's the best thing to do .
 

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I have used several cans of One Shot and never had any problems. In my opinion it is the easiest to use and most convenient lube out there. Have never had a dented case from a little too much lube. It's about the same as Imperial in a spray can. One can last a long time.
 

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I will confess, I tried the one shot, but didn't read the can very well; the part about spraying the cases and then letting them sit till the lubricant carrier evaporated! Stuck a case the first time...
 

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For several years, I was under contract to take brass from a range that was sent to me, and completely get it ready (resize, trim, and remove crimp if necessary) for reloading for a guy with a Type 6 FFL (reloading for resale). My intention was to use One Stuck as a lube for the thousands of cases I was doing every month. It failed miserably. What I ended up doing was making my own spray on lube using lanolin and isopropyl alcohol. It worked just as well as Imperial Sizing Die Was, and that's saying something. Here is the recipe for the best damn spray on case sizing lube there is:

You need to buy 3 things. First, you want to get pure liquid lanolin. It can be bought online on Amazon.com and looks like this: (Now Vitamins - Liquid Lanolin Pure 4 oz-OUT OF STOCK -- VitaGlo). There are other suppliers as well, but try to get it in a 4 oz. bottle, as you will understand why later. Liquid lanolin, which is a refined lanolin oil, is also sometimes available from health food stores and sources specializing in ingredients for cosmetics.

Next, you need to buy a 12 oz. bottle of 99 percent isopropyl alcohol. While many stores carry isopropyl alcohol in their drug/cosmetic isle, I have found few that carry the 99 percent variety that you need. Fortunately, there is an easily found product that contains 99 percent isopropyl alcohol: Iso-HEET Injector Cleaner & Fuel Line Antifreeze. Make sure it is the red bottle HEET and not the yellow bottle HEET, as that contains methanol and not isopropyl alcohol.

Lastly, you need a spray bottle. I bought mine at a Dollar General store for about 2 bucks. Now for the mixing. You need to warm both the lanolin and the HEET to enable them to mix together. But, you cannot do this over an open flame. Again, do not heat either the lanolin or the HEET over an open flame. Rather, bring a pot of water on the stove to a boil and then turn off the heat. Then, insert the bottle of lanolin and the bottle of HEET into the boiling water until both are quite hot. After removing them from the water, with a pen or magic marker, mark the lanolin bottle in increments of 1 oz. In other words, if the height to the top of the lanolin in the bottle is 4 inches, from the bottom place a mark 1 inch up, 2 inches up, and 3 inches up. Actually, it is probably better to do this prior to heating the lanolin. So now, with both the lanolin and the HEET hot, pour 1 oz. of the lanolin and the entire 12 oz. bottle of HEET into your spray bottle. Shake it up and look for an even mixing taking place. If you see separation of the two, place the spray bottle into the hot water to heat up the mixture and shake again.

To apply the lube, it’s best to place your brass into something like a 1 gallon ziplock bag, give a couple of squirts, close the bag and then shake the bag so the lube gets distributed onto all your brass. You can also spray the inside of the bag a couple times and then put the brass in prior to shaking them. After resizing the brass, you will need to remove the lube. The best way to do this is to place them in your dry tumbler, add about a tablespoon of mineral spirits/paint thinner, and then tumble them for about 20 minutes. Hope this has been helpful to you, and if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Don
 
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