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I do, only the metal one. Not the static prone plastic one.

During 15 years of Benchrest Rifle competition, I think about 95% of us used a baffle in our powder measures. With a baffle, the same amount of powder is positioned over the powder drop hole.

Shotshell Presses have much more vibration than a single stroke measure used for rifle competition. Without a baffle, there may be 1 inch of powder over that drop hole, or there could be 8 inches of somewhat "compressed" powder positioned over that hole. I prefer a baffle and consistency.

With a shotshell, it may make no difference regarding breaking a target. But I still prefer consistency.
 

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I do, only the metal one. Not the static prone plastic one.

During 15 years of Benchrest Rifle competition, I think about 95% of us used a baffle in our powder measures. With a baffle, the same amount of powder is positioned over the powder drop hole.

Shotshell Presses have much more vibration than a single stroke measure used for rifle competition. Without a baffle, there may be 1 inch of powder over that drop hole, or there could be 8 inches of somewhat "compressed" powder positioned over that hole. I prefer a baffle and consistency.

With a shotshell, it may make no difference regarding breaking a target. But I still prefer consistency.
Neil conducted his own testing of baffles/no baffles and atleast with Red Dot felt he had better consistency using no baffles.

Just saying.
 

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Neil conducted his own testing of baffles/no baffles and atleast with Red Dot felt he had better consistency using no baffles.

Just saying.

Thanks Pheasantmaster.

I certainly couldn't debate Neil regarding his findings with his particular setup, be it a Spolar, 9000,etc. I read it at the time, but don't remember what he used.

I can say that during my first year of registered competition, using a 600jr, with what, 6 strokes before a finished shell is produced, vibration and all, a baffle inserted produced more consistent powder drops than without one. That sealed the deal for me.

(I do have two higher end electronic scales with check weights, and two RCBS balance beams, so precision weighing isn't foreign to me).

I know you've posted about reloading certain recipes using a 600jr, so your results with your procedure and components may differ from mine.

In the end, I doubt if 2, 3, or 4 tenths of a grain makes a difference with breaking a target.
 

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When I had four MECS I used the red plastic ones primarily to prevent powder migration. Especially for the 410. PW must think the design is good. They copied it for their EZ seal top plate.
 

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My experience is in line with MDshotgunner's. I use the red PC baffle with the spring-loaded tube only when loading 296/110 in .410 hulls. With other powders, I see little to no difference.
 

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I have the old pot metal one.
I let the powder tell me when to use it - If I get big swings I put
it on and it usually tightens things up - 700X showed it liked one
on my sizemaster by a sizable margin.
 

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Hello,
I like it and feel I get better consistent drops. It is the red plastic kind. I hope someone starts making them again. I also load Nitro 100 and there is no mess as others have stated.
Just my two cents.
 

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I've got 4 of the red PC ones and a metal one. I use 1 of the PC on the 4.10 loader for 296 powder. Took the others off as I seen no difference with other powders.
 

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Red plastic PC baffle is great for stopping powder drool with fine grained powders. They don't give "more uniform drops". I've found with big flake powders the drops are slightly wider with the baffle.

I use one with the baffle drilled out to deal with powder drool.
 

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I used both the Red and pot metal Gray baffle over the years and found, for me at least, the metal baffle allowed me to produce the most consistant powder drops using a MEC hydrolic reloader. Variance is less than a tenth of a grain. Gave the Red one away and feel quite comfortable using the metal one. YMMV.
 
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