If you do use a baffle hold the down stroke at the bottom for a second before you raise the handle to give the powder bushing time to fill. The speculation is that the baffle flow rate isn't as fast as no baffle and therefore doesn't fill as fast. Have no data to support but made enough since to me to remove mine. Also, make sure your bar moves to the left and hits the bar screw stop. This is just past center of the powder fill hole to make sure it fills completely.
Used to use a powder baffle on my 9000, but found it made for very inconsistent powder drops, which could vary as much as plus or minus a half grain or more using it, so got rid of it. Now what I do is use one of the large bottles (like the shot bottle)for powder and never let it get below the half filled mark. Powder drops now are much more consistent. Highly recommend the use of the larger bottle for powder, but be sure not to let it ever get below the half mark for best drops.
When I had my reloader checked over at the factory, Rick asked why I had a powder baffle on the bottle. I told him that I thought the powder drops would be more consistant. He said "If that was the case, don't you think that MEC would included that item with their reloaders, or at least recommend them"? I took the baffle off. Thanks Rick.
Yes; definitely. I like the cast metal type that the bottle screws on one end and then the other end screws onto the loader. Not to be redundant but make sure you check your bushing (with a scale) to ascretain what it throws with a baffle as usually it will be lighter. Also, never allow the bottle to get more than one half empty. Always throw 5 or more charges into a separate container to get the flow of powder started, then connect the spring (progressive Mec Loader) and fill your shot container. Put a hull to catch the shot, remove it and start. That has worked for me for 30 years. Darrell
Glad this thread was started! I agree with Rick Johnson and Hauxfan completely. I, too, have been troubled by the use of two washers in the MEC set-up; troublesome when you have to change charge bars for a different shot drop - they fall out and have to be carefully replaced; disaster when the washers either bind the charge bar or slip and leak powder all over or, worse, cause light, undercharged reloads. I went to the red PC baffle and so far, seems to work fine. I like the idea of using the larger bottle and keeping it at least half full of powder. Thanks for all the comments. Best Regards, Ed
Yes, the red plastic PC baffle. On a 650, I had problems with the black rubber o-ring coming out of place and causing powder to leak and probably inconsistant drops. I'm using Clays. The PC baffle cured the o-ring (by eliminating it) and powder leaking issues. Making the drops more consistant, now that's another kettle of fish!