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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my new PW 800+ a couple of days ago. I have had plenty of time to get to know the machine.

I have loaded 125 rounds so far and had lots of issues causing wasted components, cleanups, and headaches.

The main issue seems to be in the primmer feed/primer slide bar. The primers are feeding down the track with no problem. However, the primer feed bar and slide have malfunctioned regularly. The latest issue is that the primer ram is stuck in the up position (see photos). This bent the primer slide and caused a major crash.

What am I missing here? The machine is down. Contacting PW in the morning but, hoping someone has seen this before and has an answer.

1721916


1721917
 

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Hi pin may be bent. Suggest you take apart and roll on glass and see if bent. Measure length before taking pin out, allow
You to reassemble to correct height . As to cause, ...something not lubricated enough, or the parts are not well fitted, in terms of tolerances?
? I would like to hear back on what PW says
 

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Mine is very free moving, and I have the electric motor on mine. Yours looks like it has some gouges on the front side and around the primer ram. For a new machine, it looks rough. I would take the ram out and see if it is bent. Since you are operating the machine manually, everything should work very smooth, I have found that if there is ANY resistance, there is a good reason. One more thing, I don't know what kind of hulls you are reloading, but if they are a steel base, like most of the hulls out there, you should pre size them with a MEC supersizer, I learned that the hard way. I went from a MEC 9000 to the 800+ and it did take some learning, but now it is a shell factory. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mine is very free moving, and I have the electric motor on mine. Yours looks like it has some gouges on the front side and around the primer ram. For a new machine, it looks rough. I would take the ram out and see if it is bent. Since you are operating the machine manually, everything should work very smooth, I have found that if there is ANY resistance, there is a good reason. One more thing, I don't know what kind of hulls you are reloading, but if they are a steel base, like most of the hulls out there, you should pre size them with a MEC supersizer, I learned that the hard way. I went from a MEC 9000 to the 800+ and it did take some learning, but now it is a shell factory. Good luck.
I am using Win AA gray hulls. Also have some Win AA reds, and some Rem STS. All once fired. All brass. I did keep my Super Sizer, just in case.

How does the ram come out?
 

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I am using Win AA gray hulls. Also have some Win AA reds, and some Rem STS. All once fired. All brass. I did keep my Super Sizer, just in case.

How does the ram come out?
Take a magnet to all those hulls you described and they are STEEL BASE. The primer post Whiz has is the same thing you have. You have a new machine. If you look at the manual, it has an exploded view of the primer feed and you should not have to pry anything apart
 

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The primer feed is aluminum and does move around a little after you have set the primer depth at the same time you are setting the hull depth in the die. In your first picture, I still think the area under the primer post is chewed up and the post may be bent. In the exploded view part #140 is a set screw that may secure the post
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Take a magnet to all those hulls you described and they are STEEL BASE.
Really? I thought the magnet was attracted to the primer. I thought those hulls were brass. But, on the PW, the hull gets sized on the upstroke, right?

The sizing operation seems pretty easy. When I get it running again, I can run some of those hulls through a Super Sizer and see if there is any difference.
 

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Really? I thought the magnet was attracted to the primer. I thought those hulls were brass. But, on the PW, the hull gets sized on the upstroke, right?

The sizing operation seems pretty easy. When I get it running again, I can run some of those hulls through a Super Sizer and see if there is any difference.
I just said to use a magnet on your hulls to show you they are steel base, they are just "Brass colored". Yes the hulls get sized going into the first die, but as I said I learned a BIG lesson that the steel base hulls need to be "Pre Sized" it makes a BIG difference
 

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From the top, using a drift pin, drive the top of the ram down to It's normal position. Then, above the knurled hight adjuster, under the spring, you will find an Allen screw. It's what holds the ram in place. Back it out through the spring and separate the assembly down and off of the ram. It will come apart at the dovetailed halves. Now, drive the ram out through the top and check that it's straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
From the top, using a drift pin, drive the top of the ram down to It's normal position. Then, above the knurled hight adjuster, under the spring, you will find an Allen screw. It's what holds the ram in place. Back it out through the spring and separate the assembly down and off of the ram. It will come apart at the dovetailed halves. Now, drive the ram out through the top and check that it's straight.
Thanks for that info Bandit. I have hammered that ram down pretty hard with a dowel. I have not tried a metal punch yet. It would not budge. I was afraid of marring it too badly.

I will work on it some more today and call PW. While I was waiting on this machine to be built, I must have read the owners manual front to cover 4 times. Yet on my very first completed shell, this is what I got:

1721953

1721954


Imagine getting this result on your very first try with an unfamiliar machine? I was barely able to pry the die out of the turret because the base of the shell was partially ejected. I had to cut the top off this shell with a razor knife and knock the shell out with the stuck case remover. This happened 2 more times. Weird thing is, the rest of the shells were perfect.
Recipe:
  • Win AA gray hulls
  • Win AA primers
  • 19.5 grains Red Dot
  • WAA12SL wad (Claybuster)
 

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OK, use a C clamp & secure the assembly to your bench before you start Pounding. Also, you might want to get that Allen screw out, first then get the two halves separated. After that you can drive the ram up through the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You guys were absolutely right. That Primer Post Pin (part #148) was bent like a banana. I had to remove the two set screws and drive it out from the bottom with a metal punch. When I reached the limit of the punch, I had to work it out the rest of the way with a set of channel locks. It is obviously not reusable.

How does that even happen? The Primer Feed Ram is aluminum and would bend or break before bending the Primer Post Pin. There was no obvious shot or debris in the housing when I got it apart. The only thing that I can think of is that a primer got wedged in the wrong way some how and bent it.

I am not sure how I could ever get this thing back together without some kind of special jig to hold that spring together. Perhaps the press can be used for that.

1721969

1721970
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just said to use a magnet on your hulls to show you they are steel base, they are just "Brass colored". Yes the hulls get sized going into the first die, but as I said I learned a BIG lesson that the steel base hulls need to be "Pre Sized" it makes a BIG difference
I knocked the primer out and the base of a Win AA hull. It does NOT stick to a magnet. They are not steel. They are brass. Same for the Rem STS.
 

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I feel your pain. Same thing happened to me on my 800+ trying to put a spent primer and and new one into the same hole. It was a real pain in the a$$ to fix. I made a new primer post pin out of drill rod and it has held up ok since then (15000 plus rounds ago). I do not know why PW makes the pin out of mild steel but they bend easily. I would contact PW. At the very least they can help you with reassembly. It has been too long since I did mine I can't help you to reassemble it yourself. Once you get the bugs out your PW will be a really good loader. Good luck! Regards, Bob
 
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